MBI Core Ti - (world's thinnest??) Titanium Flashlight Pendant - (work in progress)

kaichu dento

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Polished Ti looks nice, but attracts scratches VERY easily. I think a beadblasted or machined finish would hold up better.
Will it be available in non polished finish ? (stonewashed :thumbsup:, bead blasted or brushed)
Having experienced polished, bead blasted, machined and stonewashed finishes, I think that bead blasted is one of the most vulnerable and stonewashed the least vulnerable to marking.

I really hope that we'll eventually have proper stonewashing as found on Hinderer or Chris Reeves knives available as standard not only on all titanium lights, but all non-anodized lights too. With a proper stonewash, any additional scuffs just blend with the present finish, and looks great.
 

the_guy_with_no_name

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+1 for beadblasted or brushed finish
Copy that! :thumbsup:

Very cool, I would buy one if it was in deed 20lm or so.
Maybe possible, not sure at this stage though. thanks for the feedback. :)

This should be easy for you to address by allowing it to turn on with a simple click, or stay momentary by holding it for longer than half a second or so. This is the kind of light that I would be holding in my mouth at times and needing to stay on without having to try and keep my teeth on the button.
kaichu, thanks. Any ideas on a super thin "clickable" switch? :shrug:


Really nice light! I want 2 please.
Thank you :)

Will it be available in non polished finish ? (stonewashed :thumbsup:, bead blasted or brushed) Edit: oops , should have read earlier posts

Could you source a led that is not blueish or purpleish if such a thing exist in that form factor ?

I definitly want at least one anyway.
Thanks.
Will do more checking on the led. There is far less choice in flat leds compared to round 5mm.
In some other projects I did previously, I did manage to file down a regular 5mm to about 1.5mm in thickness without any adverse effect that I could notice, so that's an option for a custom hack perhaps? :cool:

Another cool project I must follow! :)
Thank you! :)

Looks *very* cool and trendy !

A fashionable accessory, indeed.

BTW -- what does MBI stand for ? ? ?

:confused:
_

MatchBox Instruments ;)
thanks for asking.


+1
A simple latching control circut for steady on would be great!
A nice tinted Led would definately compliment its great looks.
Polished, bead blasted, would be great.
A chemical colored finish would make it a must have for more than a Tintanaholic or flashaholic,
and would be purchased for its mere astetics instead of its functionality :).
GL
GL, thanks and copy on the finishes. Will definitely be looking into those.
Not sure we can fit a circuit in there but maybe?? suggestions welcome. :thumbsup:

MatchBox Industries, I think. :thinking:

Very cool little light, I will be following along with pleasure!. :eek:oo:
Thanks nbp :D

I want at least 5. Great gift. Do you have a time estimate?
maybe late November if no changes needed but more likely very early December.
Thanks x 5 :grin2:

Having experienced polished, bead blasted, machined and stonewashed finishes, I think that bead blasted is one of the most vulnerable and stonewashed the least vulnerable to marking.

I really hope that we'll eventually have proper stonewashing as found on Hinderer or Chris Reeves knives available as standard not only on all titanium lights, but all non-anodized lights too. With a proper stonewash, any additional scuffs just blend with the present finish, and looks great.
kaichu, as always, thanks!!
I will be doing a lot of research into the finishes. :bow:

I'll second the stonewashed idea.
looks awesome.
:thumbsup: thanks jabe


tgwnn

p.s. As usual, you guys rock
:rock:
thanks for all the fab suggestions
 

holeymoley

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This is an awesome idea. I've been thinking about this since I saw Sanctum. I'll also be following this thread.
 

kaichu dento

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kaichu, thanks. Any ideas on a super thin "clickable" switch? :shrug:

I will be doing a lot of research into the finishes. :bow:
I don't think it should be clickable, but have a simple circuit that senses whether it was clicked or held. The switch you're using would be fine, and a little SMT magic and you'd have it.

When you look at the finish on an XM-18, both blade and slabs, you'll see the most perfect user finish ever done.
 

Got Lumens?

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I don't think it should be clickable, but have a simple circuit that senses whether it was clicked or held. The switch you're using would be fine, and a little SMT magic and you'd have it.

+1 SMT :thumbsup:
I'll throw another in . . .
How about no switch?????
But rather contact points/rings, or separated areas that need to be touched, that sense the resistance of skin. Adding more rings or touch points, walla multifuntion touch switch. A small height difference, such as concaving, or seperating the touch areas should prevent false activations while swinging on your neck lanyard, just a fleeting thought . . .
GL
 

the_guy_with_no_name

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I don't think it should be clickable, but have a simple circuit that senses whether it was clicked or held. The switch you're using would be fine, and a little SMT magic and you'd have it.

When you look at the finish on an XM-18, both blade and slabs, you'll see the most perfect user finish ever done.

Thanks kaichu,
I had looked at some SMT's and there is one that "might" fit, but there would be parasitic drain....
Worth considering....

will check out the XM-18

+1 SMT :thumbsup:
I'll throw another in . . .
How about no switch?????
But rather contact points/rings, or separated areas that need to be touched, that sense the resistance of skin. Adding more rings or touch points, walla multifuntion touch switch. A small height difference, such as concaving, or seperating the touch areas should prevent false activations while swinging on your neck lanyard, just a fleeting thought . . .
GL

The ink version of QTC would be perfect for that,
though it would add a zero to the cost.

I'll look at some SMT's and see if they might fit.
For now I am leaning towards just momentary for first production run,
and then possibly a permanent-on implementation down the road as I really would like to have at least one MBI product in time for Xmas.

touch sensors....
interesting, I wonder if they would work under water?

I will check with R&D team on the timing requirements of adding a circuit/switch.
My guess is it could add up to 1 month (waiting on samples, then parts, then producing the circuit, etc),
so maybe this could come as version 2 option, depending on how critical it is in terms of make or break.

thanks,

tgwnn
 

Zeruel

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A suggestion, Guy, if I may?

You might want to consider a round lanyard, or in this case necklace, hole. Your current rectangle version might probably hang the light in a lopsided manner if using spilt ring or thinner chains.
 

the_guy_with_no_name

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I'm definitely in for one or two!

Thanks helios. :D

A suggestion, Guy, if I may?

You might want to consider a round lanyard, or in this case necklace, hole. Your current rectangle version might probably hang the light in a lopsided manner if using spilt ring or thinner chains.

Thanks for the suggestion/feedback :thumbsup:
(and of course you may) ;)

The original design did actually have a completely round hole.
I was worried that it may limit the kind of necklace/chain you use so squared it out a little to increase the size.
Depending on how you attach your chain/cord, it can still hang straight (over and under similar to the 2nd photo in post 1), though a smaller circle is doable.
I tried a more oval shape but didn't look as nice.
possibly a very slight angle towards the center at the top side could work too.

tgwnn
 

Got Lumens?

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A suggestion, Guy, if I may?

You might want to consider a round lanyard, or in this case necklace, hole. Your current rectangle version might probably hang the light in a lopsided manner if using spilt ring or thinner chains.

+1 to hanging straight.

There could there be a snap loop like they have on ID holders, then it not only would sit straight, but also square to ones chest, or flat :).
Second benifit, you could remove/use the light off neck while leaving the nacklace/dogtags in place around neck. Although some may prefer the split ring and using a clasp on the nacklace/dogtags, making a slight upward V as said should work with both.

Got Lumens?
 

the_guy_with_no_name

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+1 to hanging straight.

There could there be a snap loop like they have on ID holders, then it not only would sit straight, but also square to ones chest, or flat :).
Second benifit, you could remove/use the light off neck while leaving the nacklace/dogtags in place around neck. Although some may prefer the split ring and using a clasp on the nacklace/dogtags, making a slight upward V as said should work with both.

Got Lumens?

Thanks GL,
I will mess around with some angles when proto arrives.

:thumbsup:
Will let you know what I come up with,
thanks


tgwnn
 

Morelite

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I actually like the rectangular hole best. It compliments the design of the whole light.
 

the_guy_with_no_name

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I actually like the rectangular hole best. It compliments the design of the whole light.

Thanks for the feedback!

In terms of pure aesthetics, I agree.

I was thinking of another way to solve the issue, such as some kind of optional attachment (flat) ring you could use, depending on how you plan to wear/carry the Core Ti (similar to GotLumens? suggestion).

I will experiment with some very slight angles and post results here before committing to any change in the current design though.

tgwnn
 

Sno4Life

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Thanks for the feedback!

In terms of pure aesthetics, I agree.

I was thinking of another way to solve the issue, such as some kind of optional attachment (flat) ring you could use, depending on how you plan to wear/carry the Core Ti (similar to GotLumens? suggestion).

I will experiment with some very slight angles and post results here before committing to any change in the current design though.

tgwnn

I like the angular hole, but maybe it can just be more square than rectangular to give less room for the lanyard to slide. It is also a great idea to have an attachment to connect a split ring. I would put it on a leather lanyard, myself. Another way to attach using a split ring would be to use two strings with split rings on the ends - then the rings would automatically go to opposite sides as it hangs.
 
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the_guy_with_no_name

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I like the angular hole, but maybe it can just be more square than rectangular to give less room for the lanyard to slide. It is also a great idea to have an attachment to connect a split ring. I would put it on a leather lanyard, myself. Another way to attach using a split ring would be to use two strings with split rings on the ends - then the rings would automatically go to opposite sides as it hangs.

That could work too!

and on another note about the switch,
the nice thing about using an old school, driverless, momentary switch in a light like this is that you could probably dive with it, drop it in your soup, run it through your laundry machine, open it to dry it off, and it would work just fine.

tgwnn
 
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