Miter Saw

[PEU]

I was offered one of these: http://www.makita.com/menu.php?pg=product_det&tag=LS1040 at less than half local market price, do you guys know if it would be able to cut solid aluminium bars with the stock blade?


Pablo

 

[Torque1st]

I have used a similar unit to cut 2x4" (50x100mm) hollow aluminum extrusions. It cut the aluminum like a hot knife thru butter. The cut finish was very good also.

 

[PEU]

I know it can cut extrusions like you described, I wonder how it will behave with solid ALU rods


Pablo

 

[n4zov]

Buried down in the saw's instruction manual is this:

"Non-ferrous metals
miter saw
blades For miters in aluminum, copper, brass, tubing,
and other non-ferrous metals."

Apparently with the proper blades, it would cut aluminum, but you could email or call Makita to be sure. I do not believe it will cut aluminum with the stock blade, and I sure do not want to try. Just buy the right blade and you should be ready to go!

 

[BIGIRON]

It's all in the blade. Just about any saw will cut anything with the appropriate blade and prudent operation.

 

[jhanko]

I have that exact same saw. It is definitely capable a cutting solid aluminum, but not with that blade. It will be way too dangerous. Use a triple chip grind blade with a minimum of an 80 teeth, preferably 120.

Jeff

 

[PEU]

I have that exact same saw. It is definitely capable a cutting solid aluminum, but not with that blade. It will be way too dangerous. Use a triple chip grind blade with a minimum of an 80 teeth, preferably 120.

Jeff

Whats your overall opinion about the machine?

I just finished talking with a local Makita dealer, and he told me that a restocking order is due next week and it included 120teeth blades at around $40 so I already reserved one

Thanks!


Pablo

 

[jhanko]

Whats your overall opinion about the machine?

I've used it a lot including building a deck, a treehouse and remodeling the basement. I've cut quite a bit of 2" square aluminum tube with it too. The only time it ever struggled was cutting treated 4x4's. After all that, it still cuts accurate 45's for molding.

Jeff

 

[mahoney]

I would suggest one of the dry-cut saws designed for steel from Porter-Cable, Jepson, Makita, or Dewalt. The stock blade on these is a modified triple chip carbide that will cut aluminium, although a blade designed for aluminium will give a slightly cleaner cut. Most important, they are designed with beefy clamps to secure the material while it's being cut.

I only make this suggestion because we have had some students in the shop learn the hard way that round stock spinning while it's being cut in a miter saw can be way more excitement than anyone needs in their life. We've had one injury from the operator grabbing the piece and getting sliced repeatedly by a burr on the end (6-8 shallow cuts a 1/4" apart on the palm of the hand) and a few operators who were lucky not to be injured. Cutting round stock at an angle is even more dangerous as a loose piece can be shot out the side of the saw. Round stock must be much more firmly secured while being cut than square or angle stock needs to be.

However, as the Makita saw is available for a good price, with the proper blade it will do the job. But do be sure that you work out a way to mount a clamp to the saw to firmly secure the round stock.

 

[BIGIRON]

Mr. Hahoney knows what he's talking about. The saw pictured appears to have sockets to attach hold-down clamps. (the holes in the base just above the small holes used to attach to a bench, etc). Could be a worthwhile extra investment.

 

[SafetyBob]

Until I got a dry cutoff saw, I used my miter saw with a very nice crosscut blade. Yes it was relatively expensive, but my old miter saw went to my neighbor with the original blade and as long as he and I both took our time, did not get agressive with the cut......everything was fine.

I absolutely agree with others here, if you are going to use it alot, especially on round stock. Make a specific clamp or device that you can lock that metal down with. You do not want that round stock turning on you.

And like others have said, if you have the capability, ask your local industrial supply house what they would recommend to cut aluminum with. Armed with what you have got here, you should be able to make a good decision.

Bob E.

 

[PEU]

Purchased it today, $246 including a wood blade and a 100 teeth blade, Im browsing the manual to know the details and setup procedures


Pablo

 

[jhanko]

Purchased it today, $246 including a wood blade and a 100 teeth blade, Im browsing the manual to know the details and setup procedures


Pablo

Congrats... Once you figure out a way to secure round material, you'll be all set. The only other thing I would recommend is that when cutting aluminum, remove the dust bag and connect a shop vac. The aluminum shavings will be thin (thinner than aluminum foil), light as a feather and have a static charge. They will stick to everything (walls, skin, clothes, etc.). Have fun!

 

[will]

Like others have said - clamp any round stock down to the table before you cut.

 

[PEU]

I turned it on today, I jumped back when I heard the loud noise, but then I gained courage and started again
It really cuts aluminium like a hot knife to butter, I didnt expect such a nice and clean cut.

Here are some photos, the alu rod is 7075

I do need to find a way to attach my vacuum since the debris not always goes to the collecting bag.

Thanks for all the advise, Im happy with the purchase!


Pablo

 

[will]

I do need to find a way to attach my vacuum since the debris not always goes to the collecting bag.

I use my shop vac with a 2 1/2 inch hose for all my dust collection. Most large machines have ports to attach a vacuum hose. For the smaller ones I will sometime use one of the attachments and duct tape it to the machine. Other times, just the end of the hose.

Cutting metal might be a problem as the metal comes off pretty hot, it might melt into the plastic vacuum attachments.

Sometimes a placing cardboard box will be enough to catch the stray chips.

 

[precisionworks]

That saw is designed to cut wood - as you found out, it will cut metal. The problem is that ALL saws for metal cutting (high-speed dry saw, low-speed cold saw, etc) clamp the part securely in a vise. If you can make or adapt some type of clamp, you can saw safely.

"But it works OK with no clamp" ... and it will until the blade gets just a little dull, you apply more downward pressure to make it feed, & the blade rips the part from your hand:shakehead

If you're going to cut Al on a regular basis, a small cold saw is the first choice ... my 9" Wilton is made in Italy, and built like a tank - but then, every cold saw is like that:

Just over 50 kilos, so it is somewhat portable. The blade turns at a screaming 52 rpm, and leaves a near-mirror finish on Al, steel, Ti, etc.

 

[gadget_lover]

I need some clarification... what is a cold saw VS a hot saw? It sounds like a cold saw turns slower to avoid heating the metal. It also sounds a lot slower.

Thanks


Daniel

 

[precisionworks]

what is a cold saw VS a hot saw

Cold saws are primarily European in origin, although a few are American made. They are heavily constructed, mostly of cast iron, so the blade moves through a tightly controlled arc. The motor is normally attached directly to the speed reduction gear box which houses the blade arbor. Most turn around 50 rpm, although quite a few have a two speed motor (50 & 100 rpm) for cutting nonferrous. Blades are HSS, resharpenable, and flood cooled. Because of the gear reduction, torque at the blade is immense compared to any other metal cutting saw. They eat through steel bars as fast as you can lower the handle. Operation is quiet enough that you can hear people talk.

Dry cut metal saws are a variation on a wood cutting chop saw. They run at 1800 rpm, are powered by a low torque universal motor, use a carbide tipped blade, and make enough noise to wake the dead. They are designed to cut thin gauge metal studs used in commercial building construction, and they do an excellent job at that. They will cut solids, but blade life is short. I had the DeWalt MultiCutter & found that it gave the highest cost per cut of any saw in my shop.

Once you get past the sticker shock of the cold saw, you'll love the machine.

 

[Lynx_Arc]

I worked for a company for years cutting extruded aluminum channel and track and other parts for cabinetry and showcases. They use carbide tipped blades on a standard chop saw and had special cans of spray on lubricant to both reduce cutting friction and dissipate heat. When we ran out I used WD-40 for a lubricant but it doesn't work nearly as well. If you are cutting a lot of thick material at one time you may want to look into some lubricant for the saw. It comes in standard spray cans but I don't remember the brand.