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New Aleph Proto & reflector comments

McGizmo

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Erick,

I chopped this down from 25 mm initially so I could use it in the Aleph 2 head, as is, but the whole driving force for this reflector was to come up with an Al reflector that could be used by us modders and cut or chopped to suit. Now instead of starting out at 25 mm, it will start life as 20 mm. There are various shoulders upon which the reflector can be chucked and then re machined. So the short answer is yes, once this reflector is made, it will be available through the shoppe for DIY.
 

ErickThakrar

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That's awesome, Don. I love the IMS reflectors, but I already accidentally ruined one when my XM2 came on in it's pocket and actually melted the reflector slightly. An aluminum reflector like yours would completely alleviate that issue! I can't wait to see some beam shots! It looks very similar to the profile of the IMS reflector so perhaps the beam will be similar as well.
I will definitely be watching the Shoppe /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

Alan

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Don, why no batt tube designed for 168a? Since the light is designed from the ground up and no need to fit e2/e1 head thread, you might have a free hand on the tube ID.

Although 168a is only around 30% more capacity than 168s, it has more than 50% runtime than 168s by my experience. Besides, it doesn't increase size of the light. I think when U2 start to ship, 168a would become more popular.

Alan
 

StoneDog

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Don, I know it's probably too early to be certain yet but if all of this works out will individual parts (or kit) be available in addition to turnkey lights? I bet I'm not the only one around here that gets a real kick out of assembling PR heads, entire McLux lights, etc.

Jon
 

McGizmo

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hi guys,

The switch is a two stage. I have done a couple with modified Z57 guts converting them into clickies but I have no plan on coming up with a clickie module. One could always put the stock LOTC innards from a Z52 in one of these if you were so inclined; perhaps for an incandescent head?!?!

As these parts are made, they will become available on the shoppe as components for DIY.

Alan,

I have a partially completed battery tube on my bench right now for the 168A. I have chosen to continue with E series compatibility and these parts will be interchangeable with those that preceeded them. I respectfully disagree with "no need" to fit the E1/E2, McLux original or PR series heads!

If anything, the fat lithium can meet the E series on *their* ground! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Aleph1-18650.jpg


In the image above, that 6P body mates to an "E series" head and hosts an 18650. The only thing keeping the 6P from hosting the even fatter 168A is the restrictions forced by the tailcap thread geometry and O-ring groove. A different selection of threads and O-ring can allow for the larger bore of the 168A.

I have been dumping money into this Aleph series for a few months now and can't hope to start to see any returns or recoop those funds for some time to come. In the mean time, I will continue to explore additions which certainly include a 168A power pack with tail switch but it isn't going to happen over night. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif I am so far out on a limb right now that I need to let it grow some before I venture further out! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif
 

cue003

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Great news on the 168A. Glad to know there is a possibility for the power pack down the road.

Curtis
 

McGizmo

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Updates: Sure....

ARGH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif

I feel better now, thanks.....

By tomorrow evening, I will have ordered the following:

20 mm reflectors and 38 mm reflectors ( Already have the 27 mm reflectors)

Aleph 1,2 and 3 heads (27, 20 & 38 mm reflector hosts respectively)

1x123, 2x123 & 1x17500 battery tubes

E screw and ES can for the screw

McE2S switch cap and components

********************************************

As for parts already received, I have all of the tail cap components and the tail caps in HA-Nat & Black

I have 1x123 batery tubes in black and a batch going in for their second attempt on HA-Nat

Monday, I will have 2x123 and 1x17500 tubes in black as well. I will need to face off both lips of the tube for ground path and then I can get some of these to Wayne. I was going to leave raw tubes of these sizes with the HA-Nat anodizer on friday but after seeing the 1x123's I didn't even mention that I had these and I took them back. More on anodize later down...

Summertime, vacations and lack of communication have conspired to set back the expected ship date on the Aleph 1 heads as well as the E screws. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif I have the ES cans and they have been nickle plated already. I approved the First Article of the Aleph 1 Head a month ago. I expect First Article of the E screw at the beginning of next week and the machine shop is going to do all they can to play catch up here.

20 mm & 38 mm reflectors are about a month away as are their heads (Aleph 2 & 3)


**********************************

Aleph 1 lights should be in existance sometime towards mid to the end of next month both as DIY components as well as build to suit if Wayne, I or any others so chosing, have the time and inclination.

**********************************

In regards to the names, there is ultimately no rhyme or reason to how these have become to be named and it's a mess. I promise to never criticize SF and their part numbers again!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif

*****************************************
Anodize: First and foremost, anodize provides a hard and protective film over the Al 6061 T6 which in and of itself is well suited to the environment it is typically subjected to even in its raw form. The color is a cosmetic issue and for many it is understandably important. I have had the range of success on getting components HA-Nat anodized. From unacceptable scrap to reasonably compatible with SF parts, I have received all of these. Since the tailcaps do have a good relationship with SF HA-Nat components, I will continue to provide these if the anodizer can hold up their end. Regarding the Aleph series in its entirety though, after the crap I saw on Friday, I was finally compelled to make a decision I have been contemplating all along. I am going to go exclusively with what I have been calling black HA.

To be more specific, the parts you have seen from me and identified as black HA are not the same as the standard black HA type III parts which in fact use a dye for getting the color. My parts are a hard anodize but they are done in 40' long tanks that are more commonly used for sailboat spars as well as lamp posts and other architectural components like railing. There are no dyes added and this hard anodize is typically not as thick of a film and I would catagorize the color as a dark slate gray. I believe that it is a good functional hard coating and it is reasonably "neutral" if coupled with HA-Nat parts or EN plated parts. Frankly, I personally prefer the color and with the hassles involved in trying to get consistant color of the HA-Nat, I say screw it! I think I'll take a "marketing" slant on this and point out that the Aleph series will be available in the "unique" HA-slate color only and it is a mark of distinction! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

******************

At the moment, I seem to be short on money, certainly room, patience and wits. Oh yeah and time! I am really short on time! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif My only consolation is taking the prototypes out and re affirming that these lights are going to be honest, functional and different than other offerings. In other words, I believe they will be sellable both here and beyond CPF and I think at some point, building these and getting them out will be fun and satisfying. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

**********************

So not only do you get an update but you also got some whine; sorry but no cheese to go with it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

As soon as I have representative parts, I will put together some images as well as text and possibly a matrix of what and how these components can be combined and to what results. There need to be the ever so misleading and two dimensional beam shots and you know you can count on runtimes! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif

Every new part that comes along always has its mod potential and these likely have yet to be discovered alternative uses both as is and with some modifications. Just today I took a P60 LA and found that it could be loaded from the front end into a Aleph 1 head. The ground spring needed cutting and some bending. Lamp changing will be a bit of a PITA but the Aleph 1 head on the 2x123 battery tube with a tail cap modded with clickie inside makes a pretty cool host for the P60 or P61, IMHO.
 

Beretta1526

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Wow, what an update. Paul Masson would say "I will sell no light before its time"

Thank you! I'm sure that we will be very happy with this.

I have one question, if a Pxx LA fits with slight modification, how 'bout a Pila 3.7V LA? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/naughty.gif
 

McGizmo

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Beretta,
Funny you should ask! Yes it does fit and I wondered the same thing since the proto head was sitting on a 17500 battery tube. However, with a 2 mm thick window, the bezel ring does not go all the way into the head. I think I would go with a thinner window.
 

cue003

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Great response. More than I ever expect and very much appreciated. Thanks for keeping us in the loop.

Curtis

p.s. Don, I have also sent you an email. Please check it out.

Thanks again
 

sithjedi333

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Mcgizmo,

I am so excited about the Aleph. Pardon my ignorance, but I have a few questions if I may.
-Is it 3w or 5w?
-Will it be compatible with DSpeck's UBH?
-Can it run on 3x123? 2xAA?

Thanks!!!
 

McGizmo

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The Aleph system will consist of three heads (20, 27 & 38 mm reflectors), 3 battery tubes (1x123, 2x123 & 1x17500) and the guarded tail cap. All of these components are E series compatible. The Aleph heads will host the ES "light engine" that consists of the E-screw heat sink and EX can. The light engine will accept Lux III or 5W LED's and drivers of the .550" diameter format (Bad Boys, Next Gen, Down Boy's and likely others drivers). The Light Engine can be unscrewed from the Aleph head and replaced or moved to another head.

There are some ideas on the boards for additional battery tubes and heads but this will all take time.....

The Aleph system is a build to suit program that can stand alone or be integrated with the other E series components like the SF of course (Duh!), the UBH, PR and PR-T heads and Balrog's new E tubes. At least that's the theory!
 

sithjedi333

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Thanks, that really helps. I love the concept. I've been pieceing together info from several threads, so it's great to hear it straight from the source. One followup question, because if I am fortunate enough to obtain one of these in the next year or so, I would run it primarily on 123s. However, if it were put on the UBH with 2xAAs (say, in an emergency or on a long overseas trip), how would it run? How about on 3x123s? Thanks!

Best,
 

balrog

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Oct 28, 2003
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Sydney, Australia
Finally got myself up to speed on the Aleph system. Sounds great. I really like the ES light engine concept. It means you can find yourself one really nice LED and use it several different lights. Great work! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
 

Kiessling

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Nov 26, 2002
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great !
paypal loaded !
and congrats on this monster update, it left me speechless, which is rare, ya know /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
bk
 

McGizmo

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Thanks guys! I just picked up 2x123 and 1x17500 tubes in the HA-Slate color. I have some significant lathe time ahead of me now. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif

sithjedi333,

Your choice of driver will dictate the battery options you can consider. A BadBoy will allow for 2xAA and 1x123 on a Lux III but 2x123 or 3x123 will require a DownBoy for a Lux III and then you won't be able to use the 2xAA or 1x123. A wizard buck/ boost driver may or may not fit in the SE engine. They are a PITA to work with anyway and I am hoping that something more efficient and friendly comes down the road. You need a buck/boost driver like the wizard or you can always use a KL1 if you want the battery range you have mentioned. I won't get into underdriven 5W LED's with boost circuits here. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
 
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