new Cree XM-L U2 on pur and gold plated copper core board

ichoderso

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Hi, yesterday I got a sample of this new XM-L on a copper core board.
In the next days I will made some tests and will write the results here.
For the first, you can read some of my tests from a preproduction run in our german forum
http://www.messerforum.net/showthread.php?t=96681
If you have special questions, please ask me!

Jens

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yliu

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So you can drive the LED harder without overheating it right? I'm guessing you'll need a decently big heatsink as well...
 

yellow

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the "best" were, if the slug would be directly the "board".
One barrier less, thus extremely better heat transfer
(considerably better than whatever fancy material is used for the additional board/star)

But then the size of the led will be "bigger"
and the slug has to be electrically negative, or course
:thinking:
 

bose301s

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the "best" were, if the slug would be directly the "board".
One barrier less, thus extremely better heat transfer
(considerably better than whatever fancy material is used for the additional board/star)

But then the size of the led will be "bigger"
and the slug has to be electrically negative, or course
:thinking:
Electrically neutral or isolated, saying electrically negative conotates the it would have a negative voltage which you would not want.
 

ichoderso

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the center "heat transfered" part of the LED is direct soldered with the copper board, no isolating barrier .... and this part is electrical neutral on the Cree XM-L....(was negative on the SSC P7 how i know....)

Jens
 

bose301s

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the center "heat transfered" part of the LED is direct soldered with the copper board, no isolating barrier .... and this part is electrical neutral on the Cree XM-L....(was negative on the SSC P7 how i know....)

Jens
I know, this. Seoul also used to have the star board be negative on the P4 when they first came out, burnt a few up at an internship with a lighting company prototyping stuff when we didn't know that. Was a dumb idea on their part, should always be electrically isolated.
 

monkeyboy

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The luminous output is reduced without the dome. What would be good is a side emitting optic like the old luxeon I.
 

uk_caver

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The luminous output is reduced without the dome. What would be good is a side emitting optic like the old luxeon I.
With a large die, would a side-emitting optic (and the reflector it fired into) have to scale roughly in size with the die to keep a similar (scaled-up) emission geometry?
 

monkeyboy

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With a large die, would a side-emitting optic (and the reflector it fired into) have to scale roughly in size with the die to keep a similar (scaled-up) emission geometry?

Scaling everything up would give the same beam angles.

e.g. If you could perfectly scale a side emitting luxeon I and reflector by a (linear) factor of 2, it would give an identical beam pattern of twice the diameter but at twice the distance. It would be roughly the same size at the same distance.
 

bshanahan14rulz

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Think of it this way: it is more efficient at turning electricity into lumens, therefore for the same electricity that you put in, you get more lumens out.

They are brighter because they are more efficient.

If the thermal slug can't be soldered directly to the copper core, it would be nice to see a larger trace area for the thermal pad. Or did I miss it?

Waiting with baited breath for test data :)
(Gotta stop eatin' those earthworms and minnows)
 
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alpg88

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If the thermal slug can't be soldered directly to the copper core, it would be nice to see a larger trace area for the thermal pad. Or did I miss it?

but they are soldered directly to the copper core
 

Epsilon

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Look at led-tech.de for a picture of the thermal path differences :). Will upload it when I'm not on my phone :p.
 

Pöbel

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look at the test done in the first link. Heat conduction is great, you can drive them with 5A and the LED will not overheat granted your heatsink can handle the load.
 

gabtrac

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Hi, since some days, you can order this item offically, here is the link:

http://www.led-tech.de/en/High-Power-LEDs-Cree/CREE-XM-Serie/CREE-XM-L-U2-on-Copper-PCB-LT-1790_120_170.html

o
ther color bins, neutral and warm whits will follow soon, so my info from the manufacturer...

Jens

Hi Jens,
I'm very new to ALL of this, but I need to manufacture some lights that work off 12V. I'm pretty sure the LED's I need are the CREE- 941-XMLAWT0000LT40E3.
I am a film-maker and will be shooting in very remote locations where I need to light big areas. My research tells me that the LED above is the brightest most efficient available. My problem is, I have no idea what parts I need or how to configure them. I will build my own housings. But electronics are not my strong point. I am hoping to arrange 3-6 or more (most efficient) of the LED's in each housing and would like to make up about 4-5 housings to start.
Can you help me?
Thanks,
ak
 
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