New Jetbeam M2S with SST-50 LED [+ Pics heavy]

[Outdoors Fanatic]

I don't work for Jetbeam, but I suspect that your goose would be cooked long before the LED's. Someone already mentioned (either here or in the Marketplace thread) that they thought the time limit was to protect the batteries rather than the emitter. After running the numbers, I think they're right. Unless the M2S has spectacularly efficient circuitry, it will end up pulling ~1800mA from each CR123A, even fresh @ 3V. As soon as they drop to 2.5V each, if the light stays in regulation it will be drawing ~2150mA from each battery. Most CR123A manufacturers state that the max safe continuous draw is 1500mA, so I'm betting that the 3 minute time limit is to keep the draw from being "continuous". Anyone using the extension with 4x CR123As or 2x 18650s will be ok current-wise, but since Jetbeam didn't go with a four battery body tube, they need to account for the "lowest common denominator".

That's total horsecrap! Have you ever used a powerful tactical-incandescent flashlight in you life, or a HID? A basic SureFire 9P or C3 with the standard P90 lamp assembly gets scorching hot after 10 minutes of continues run. With HOLA bulbs, you can't even touch them after 3 minutes. And yet, SureFire has never put any kind of cell overheating warning on any flashlight or flashlight manual or brochure in its 30-year history. A LOT of SureFire lights draw more than 2A, sometimes 2.7A from each CR123A cell with no issues. Do you know "C" rule? A typical lithium cell can handle up to 2C, a good quality CR123 is rated at 1500mAh = x2C = 3000mAh. But most cell manufacturers will say 2500mAh just to be on the safe side.
The emitter itself, is precisely the reason any half-assed manufacturer would put any kind of continous runtime-limit on a flashlight.

My point is, why are you making all this stuff up if you obviously don't know what you are talking about?

 

[grunscga]

That's total horsecrap! Have you ever used a powerful tactical-incandescent flashlight in you life, or a HID? [...] My point is, why are you making all this stuff up if you obviously don't know what you are talking about?

:laughing: I bow to your overwhelming anger. You seem to have a lot of emotional investment in random text posted on the internets about flashlights... :duh2: I know, I know, you're a crusader for truth and justice, and you must crush all errors and falsehoods discovered during the course of your nightly patrols... :shakehead

First: Show me a >15W HID that runs on 3x CR123As that is built by a major manufacturer (custom hotrods don't count). I will concede to your righteous fury if you can do that.

Second: I'm not sure what hot Surefire lamp assemblies have to do with cell overheating? Especially since I wasn't talking about putting the cells in an oven and then running them. My point was exactly that I suspect with the amount of heat-sinking on the M2S, the body of the light really doesn't get very warm at all, so external heat isn't the problem. Note the use of the word "suspect", which means that I do not have proof, but instead mere suspicion. I might also point out that the HOLAs have runtime limits, in that they have a max runtime of 20 minutes before the batteries give out anyway (now, I've never actually used a HOLA, just going off of Surefire's specs here, so if it's actually 20.377 minutes, feel free to go nuts again).

Third: I know the "C" rule. I also remember seeing a spec sheet (I believe it was for Rayovac CR123s, but I'm not sure, and google is failing me at the moment) that stated that 1C (in this case, 1C was 1550mA) was the maximum safe continuous use. The specs also said that something like 4C was allowed, as long as it was a 1:10 on : off duty cycle. I suppose it's possible that I'm mis-remembering the specs. If you can find a spec sheet that says 2500mA rather than 1500mA, then I will surrender to your spider army.

Fourth: If you've ever watched the voltage of a CR123 while experiencing significant draw, then you know that almost instantly after the draw disappears, the voltage returns to "normal". If you've ever played with hot things, then you know that heat doesn't instantly disappear when the power shuts off. So why does Jetbeam let you immediately turn the light back on in high after it shuts off "due to heat"? It would be pretty simple to keep the user from re-activating high for X minutes after the cutoff (at least forcing the user to remove the batteries long enough to reset the circuit).

Fifth: In the interest of maintaining proper internet decorum: :nana:

 

[TodToh]

this is my "Tatical 1000 lumens" :naughty:

 

[guiri]

I also found dome new cool pics of it here. In two colors.
http://www.ohled.com/board/forum.asp?rn=20100204009

Not just two different colors, two different lights

 

[guiri]

Fight! Fight! :whoopin: Fight! Fight! :touche:

 

[Partywaggin]

:laughing: I bow to your overwhelming anger. You seem to have a lot of emotional investment in random text posted on the internets about flashlights... :duh2: I know, I know, you're a crusader for truth and justice, and you must crush all errors and falsehoods discovered during the course of your nightly patrols... :shakehead

First: Show me a >15W HID that runs on 3x CR123As that is built by a major manufacturer (custom hotrods don't count). I will concede to your righteous fury if you can do that.

Second: I'm not sure what hot Surefire lamp assemblies have to do with cell overheating? Especially since I wasn't talking about putting the cells in an oven and then running them. My point was exactly that I suspect with the amount of heat-sinking on the M2S, the body of the light really doesn't get very warm at all, so external heat isn't the problem. Note the use of the word "suspect", which means that I do not have proof, but instead mere suspicion. I might also point out that the HOLAs have runtime limits, in that they have a max runtime of 20 minutes before the batteries give out anyway (now, I've never actually used a HOLA, just going off of Surefire's specs here, so if it's actually 20.377 minutes, feel free to go nuts again).

Third: I know the "C" rule. I also remember seeing a spec sheet (I believe it was for Rayovac CR123s, but I'm not sure, and google is failing me at the moment) that stated that 1C (in this case, 1C was 1550mA) was the maximum safe continuous use. The specs also said that something like 4C was allowed, as long as it was a 1:10 on : off duty cycle. I suppose it's possible that I'm mis-remembering the specs. If you can find a spec sheet that says 2500mA rather than 1500mA, then I will surrender to your spider army.

Fourth: If you've ever watched the voltage of a CR123 while experiencing significant draw, then you know that almost instantly after the draw disappears, the voltage returns to "normal". If you've ever played with hot things, then you know that heat doesn't instantly disappear when the power shuts off. So why does Jetbeam let you immediately turn the light back on in high after it shuts off "due to heat"? It would be pretty simple to keep the user from re-activating high for X minutes after the cutoff (at least forcing the user to remove the batteries long enough to reset the circuit).

Fifth: In the interest of maintaining proper internet decorum: :nana:

Wes

 

[AlexLED]

Sounds great !!

Anybody know which chromaticity bin they use ?

(The available SST-50 bins can be found here: http://www.luminus.com/stuff/conten...s/pds_001393_rev_02__binning_and_labeling.pdfhttp://www.luminus.com/content1518 )

 

[TriChrome]

Does anybody know if the M1X's +1 cell extender AND the pressure switch tailcap will also work on the M2S?

 

[Dioni]

Does anybody know if the M1X's +1 cell extender AND the pressure switch tailcap will also work on the M2S?

Its a good question. We know that the head really does not fit, but nothing about extender and tail. :thinking:

 

[windstrings]

Does anybody know if the M1X's +1 cell extender AND the pressure switch tailcap will also work on the M2S?

The head have reverse "male vs female" of what you need.

the extender caps "may" work only if they are the latest extender caps that went with the last generation M1X....

I know for a fact they won't work with the older ones as those won't work with the later versions of M1X let alone the M2S as the threads are the right size but wrong type.. you only get about 1/2 a turn.

 

[Dioni]

I saw a M1X using a Surefire Tailcap SW02. Question: wich M1X version has the same threads of Surefire C?

 

[TriChrome]

My v4 M1X has the same threads as a Surefire C2. I can swap in the tailcap, extender tube, and tapeswitch tailcap without any problems between the two.

 

[Dioni]

My v4 M1X has the same threads as a Surefire C2. I can swap in the tailcap, extender tube, and tapeswitch tailcap without any problems between the two.

Thanks

 

[toby_pra]

That RRT-3 looks also very interesting...like a fat baby, but nice! :twothumbs

 

[windstrings]

That RRT-3 looks also very interesting...like a fat baby, but nice! :twothumbs

Ideal for rifle installations... but If I'm gonna hold something that fat... it needs to have a good head on it too!...... "and be mine of course!" :kiss:

 

[toby_pra]

Ideal for rifle installations... but If I'm gonna hold something that fat... it needs to have a good head on it too!...... "and be mine of course!" :kiss:

+1

 

[ShOgUn_LI]

So how's the jetbeam tapeswitch tailcap compare to the surfire one? Man i'm excited to get my new jetbeam!! I just hope the whole package comes in time before my mate leaves for Africa! lol my trust is in all the post-people out there

 

[houtex]

A review I think, but I can't read Korean
http://www.ohled.com/board/forum.asp?rn=20100212001

 

[Fusion_m8]

Good pics showing the beam profiles between the M1X and M2S. For some reason, both beams look really blue, like 8000K+ colour temp. Maybe it was the contrast against the orangey street lighting:thinking:??

I wonder how easy is it to mod the M2S with a warm-neutral SST-50 emitter? Do these emitters even exist?

A review I think, but I can't read Korean
http://www.ohled.com/board/forum.asp?rn=20100212001

 

[windstrings]

Humm.... the M2S doesn't have the donut but is also softer and not as intense.

I wonder what that means for distance throw?