Nitecore jsut died, need a replacement. Any suggestions?

[rmnkys]

Hopefully I can get some positive input and help choosing my new flashlight.

I purchased a Nitecore P12 about a month ago and it slipped out of my waist pouch one time and hit the floor and now won't work.I loved this light.Small, VERY bright, and light.I only used the burst (950 L) and rarely the mid (250 L) and low (?)
I am a little hesitant to purchase the same light again due to the fact that it seems to me that it is not very durable.I am not hard on lights but it does get pulled in and out of the pouch many (up to 40) times a day.I want to know that it will last if it gets dropped.
I really only need 2 modes, SUPER BRIGHT and medium.I don't need a strobe at all.I have narrowed it down to the following:
Eagetac
T25C2

Olight
M18 Striker

Zebralight
SC600 MKII L2
SC600W MKII L2

Klarus
XT11
ST11

Rofus
PR21

Fenix
PD35

Elzetta
Charlie Series 900 lumen

Surefire
P3X Fury

Armytek
Viking XM-L2

Here is my reccomendation Q&A

1) How would you prefer to purchase the light?

____I would like to purchase the light in person from a brick and mortar store. I am located in ______________.
__X__This will be mail-order or Online (location doesn't matter).


2) Budget: An easy question, but you may change your mind after answering the rest!

____I don't know yet
____Up to $25.
____Up to $50.
____Up to $100.
____Up to $200.
____Up to $300.
_X___Essentially unlimited.


3) Format:

____I am not sure, please help me decide.
__X__I want a flashlight (hand held/self contained).
____I want a self-contained headlamp.
____I want a headlamp with an external pack/power source.
____I want a mounted light (typically for a bicycle or vehicle)
____I want a lantern/area light.
____I want a portable spotlight (it may have an external power source).
____Other ____________________________________________


4) Size:

____MICRO - Keychain size.
____TINY - Every day carry (2-4 inches).
__X__SMALL - Every day carry (4-7 inches).
____MEDIUM - Holster/belt ring carry. (>7 inches)
____LARGE - Big enough to need its own travel case.
____I don't know/I don't care.


5) Emitter/Light source:

_X___LED (known for efficiency, longevity, and compactness)
____Incandescent (known for superior color rendition)
_X___HID (known for max output, but often at the expense of size)
____I don't know.


6) Manufacturer:

__X__I want to buy a light from a large/traditional manufacturer that is ready to go out of the box.
____I would like a light from a specialty manufacturer (Possibly limited run/Custom).
____I am interested in assembling my own components. (for example a "host" or flashlight body from one manufacturer, and a "drop-in" emitter from another source).


7) What power source do you want to use?

____I intend to use "Primary"/Disposable Alkaline batteries based on the usual AAA/AA/C/D sized cells common to most stores.
____I intend to use "Primary"/Disposable Lithium batteries based on the usual AAA/AA/C/D and CR123 sized cells common to most stores (often a cold weather or long storage choice).
____I intend to use Rechargeable cells (NiMH or NiCD) based on the usual AAA/AA/C/D sized cells common to most stores.
__X__I intend to use Rechargeable cells based on less common formats (18500 or 18650 Li-Ion, RCR123, et-al).
__X__I want a light with an integrated rechargeable battery pack.
____I don't know/I need more information on power sources.

7a) If you have selected a rechargeable option
____I want a light that plugs directly into the wall (literally with prongs built into the light)
__X__I want a light that has a recharging adapter (your typical "wall wart")
__X__I want a light that snaps into a cradle (usually mounted on a wall)
__X__I want a separate/stand-alone charger (this involves removing the batteries to charge)
____I don't care


8) How much genuine out the front (OTF) light do you want/need? Sometimes you can have too much light (trying to read up close up with a 100 lumen light is not a happy experience).

____I want to navigate a dark room or read a map (1-10 lumens).
____I want an indoor "blackout" light (15-50 lumens)
____I want to confidently walk around an unlit/unpaved rural area (60-150 lumens).
____I want to illuminate my entire backyard or a campsite (150-300 lumens).
____I want to illuminate an entire field, the neighbor's front yard several houses down, impress my friends and neighbors, etc. (300-700 lumens).
__X__I want search and rescue type illumination (800+ lumens).

__X__SPECIAL NOTE: Burst/Turbo mode Category - There are several lights that will run at a super bright maximum for a very limited period (usually 5-10 minutes) and then will "step-down" to a lower level for thermal control. Check here if this is acceptable.


9) Flood vs Throw: Flood covers an area, Throw reaches out to a distance.

____All Flood: I am doing "arms length" tasks like reading and campsite cooking.
__X__Wide Flood: I want a defined flood area for semi-close tasks like after-dark campsite tasks or working on a car.
____Narrow Flood: I want a sharply defined flood area that will project some distance for tasks like trail walking.
____Wide Throw: I want a beam with a noticeable hot-center for distance throw and a significant amount of "side-spill". Good for rough trail hiking, search and rescue, and general distance work.
____Narrow Throw: I want a beam with a very tight "hot center" and minimal "side-spill". Good for distance viewing, fog, and looking through dense undergrowth.
____Turbohead: I want a far-distance projector with a sharply focused spot of light and minimal or zero side-spill. Good for extreme distance and impressing your friends.

9a) Distance: How far away will you typically need to see with this light (check all that apply)
____Less than 1 yard/meter (reading, other close work)
__X__Less than 5 yards/meters (looking for something inside a dark shed/garage/basement)
____5-20 yards/meters (check out a noise in the backyard)
____30-50 yards/meters (I have a big backyard)
____50-150 yards/meters (I live in a very rural area/farm with wide open spaces)
____150+ yards (I am searching from a helicopter)

10) Runtime: Not over-inflated manufacturer runtime claims, but usable brightness measured from first activation to 50% with new batteries (Measured on maximum continuous output).

____Up to 30 minutes (I want the brightest [and potentially smallest] light for brief periods)
__X__30-60 minutes (I have plenty of batteries just ready to be changed)
____90-120 minutes (Runtime is moderately important, but still not critical)
____3 hours + (I critically need this light to run on max for extended periods in between battery changes/charges).




11) Durability/Usage: Generally the old phrase "you get what you pay for" is very accurate for flashlights.

____Not Important (A "night-stand" light).
____Slightly Important (Walks around the neighborhood).
____Very Important (Camping, Backpacking, Car Glove-box).
__X__Critical (Police, Fire, Search & Rescue, Caving, Survival).
____I don't know.


12) Switch Size, Type, and location (choose all that apply):

____Any size switch will do.
____I need a BIG switch (I'll be using gloves or have very large hands or coordination issues).
____I want a forward clicky (Helpful for momentary activation and signaling).
__X__I want a reverse clicky (For use with multi-mode/level lights).
_X___I want a momentary switch (Predominantly for use with signaling and short bursts of momentary light only).
____I want a twisty switch (Tighten the head/tailcap to activate, and the light will stay on until the head/tailcap is loosened).
____I want a body mounted switch (near the head, like on a Maglite).
__X__I want a tail mounted switch (found on the majority of today's high end lights).
____I want a remote switch (usually found on high-end bicycle headlights)
____I don't care.
____I don't know.
____Other, please specify____________________.


13) User Interface (UI) and mode selection. Select all that apply.

____A simple on-off with only one output level is fine for me.
__X__I want 2 light levels. (Brighter/short runtime and Dimmer/long runtime.)
____I want multiple light levels. (Some lights have 5-16 light levels.)
____I want a programmable light.
____I want a selector ring.
____I want a strobe mode. (Oscillating pattern to confuse/blind aka "Police Mode")
____I want SOS mode. (blinks in ---...--- emergency pattern)
____I want a beacon mode. (Regular flashes at full power to show location.)
____I don't care.
____I don't know.


14)Material/Finish/Coating

____Plastic/composite body (this may limit your choices significantly).
____Anodized Aluminum – either type II or III (Hard Anodized) (Aluminum, specifically HA, is the most common material/finish for today's higher end flashlights).
____Stainless steel (durable, but much heavier than aluminum)
____Titanium (durable and nearly as lightweight as aluminum, but can be moderately to significantly more expensive).
____I don't care.
__X__I don't know.
____Other, please specify____________.

15) Water resistance
____None needed
__X__IPX4 (Splash resistant)
____IPX7 (Waterproof to 1 meter/30min)
____IPX8 (Submersible to greater than 1 meter for 4 hours)

16) Storage conditions
__X__In house (temperature/climate controlled environment)
____Emergency kit (long standby periods)
____Automobile glove-box (wide temperature swings, long standby periods, critical reliability)
____Other_________________________________________ ____


17) Special Needs/extras: Is there anything else you want or need that hasn't been mentioned? Select any/all below.

____Red filter (for preserving night vision).
____Other filter colors (Amber, Green, Blue, _________).
____Dedicated R/G/B secondary LEDs.
____"Hybrid" light (bright incandescent combined with long running LEDs)
____Pocket/belt clip
____Holster
____Wrist/Neck Lanyard
____Crenulated bezel
____Non-sparking, Intrinsically Safe (IS) for use in explosive environments

 

[rmnkys]

Sorry duplicate post

 

[RetroTechie]

Welcome to this forum, rmnkys!

Ehm... how about warranty? Most lights like this are specified to survive a fall of some height, usually higher than one's waist. Yes eg. a concrete floor can be hard on a light, but this would still be a warranty issue imho (and lights like this are expensive enough).

Of course you may have lost confidence in that P12 & look for something else. But that's no reason to skip getting it replaced. Even if you wouldn't use it anymore, better have a replacement working P12 sitting around, than a broken one... (or give / sell that replacement to someone else).

Oh and btw: this is what lanyards are for, iirc.

 

[rmnkys]

The Nitecore was ordered from Amazon and they are willing to accept a return and refund the money. That is why I am looking for a different brand.
Also, I do agreee that a lanyard is the way to go. Not to argue, but due to the circumstances and applications in my job, I am not sure that this will work for me.

 

[ven]

If there is risk of dropping,any light can break so i would consider a purchase local,maybe somewhere you can walk in to.If not a recommended seller on here for the "just in unfortunate case" it breaks.

Fenix,nitecore could require sending off,weeks............months till new light= useless imho.
Just some thoughts,i am struggling with Klarus at the moment so from reading up,most lights bough over seas or even in own country that come from china could=pita.
If possible get a back up as the above could happen with most brands,if required daily then even a weeks wait is too long!
:thumbsup:

 

[ssholtis]

What about the T200 from EagleTac ?

It falls in at around 1100 Lumen, with the reverse clicky, 2 modes (no strobe) and a price point which is relatively cheap given the quality of the light.

Looks pretty indestructible.

http://bit.ly/1gB7DTn

 

[beltrao]

What about Malkoff M91 on MD3 (2x18500)? The $25 bezel switch for hi/lo is necessary.
This flashlight is almost indestructible.
I dropped mine several times and it still works fine.

Another suggestion: Elektrolumens EDC (1x18650).

Elzetta Charlie uses 3 non rechargeable cr123a batteries.
I bored mine to accept two 18500.

 

[yoyoman]

+1 on the Malkoffs. The electronics are potted so they are very robust. Several ways to go depending on what floats your boat. I have a M361 LMH li-ion in a VME head and Vital Gear FB1 body running on a single RCR123 (16340 li-ion) - bright and small. I also have a M61 Nichia 219 in a MD2 body running on 2XCR123 with the hi/lo ring. Hound Dog N on a MD3 running 3xCR123 (or 2x18500) and the newest Wildcat on MD4 body running 2X18650. The newest Wildcat is very bright and floody - a wall of light with some throw. Both have the hi/lo ring and Low provides useable light and long runtimes. The Malkoff bodies don't need to be bored to take 18XXX cells and are very solid. Great customer service. Malkoff has a devoted following for a reason - you can look at threads for some ideas.

 

[rmnkys]

Looked up Malkoffs and I really like em. I was looking at both the hound dog XM-L and wildcat heads, with MD3 body/switch. The Wildcat is brighter but the XM-L has more of a direct beam. Better suited for my applications I think. Most of my work is within 10 yards. Am I thinking this correctly? Or will both work just as well at that short of a distance?

 

[yoyoman]

The Hound Dog has more throw with a lot of spill. But 10 yards is nothing. The Wildcat will light up 10 yards without an issue and the Malkoff site says 150 feet for the newest Wildcat. Search in CPF = "new, new malkoff wildcat" and you'll see beam shot comparisons and interesting discussions. I checked the Malkoff site and they were discounted and now out of stock. I wonder if they still want to work with the MTG2 and Ledil reflector? I suggest you give them a call. The Hound Dog is also a great light. You really can't go wrong. I have the HD N and it is a great light. The Wildcat MTG2 is just my newest light and top of the list at the moment. My VME, M361 li-ion, FB1 is another favorite - not quite as bright but very small - about the length of an AAA clicky (much thicker diameter of course).

 

[Jash]

Forget some of the details on your checklist and go for a MD2 with H/L ring. It will be all you need.

 

[kj2]

With the list of lights, you gave. I would say go for a Zebralight. No tail-switch, but has a great beam for up-close work, and nice high/low modes.

 

[metlhelth]

An eclectic list of lights you've narrowed it down to. Would think the lighter lights would hit the ground with less momentum for better shock protection. I think the zebralight or my new toy the tx25c2, both are very bright with side buttons. You can grip inside your waist pouch and turn on and use in a more natural grip, while you hand never leaves your waist. The tactical tail click means you have to lift it to your shoulder to use or change your grip, when your most likely to drop it. the eagletec is very light as well. Has a nice stiff holster that you can easily drop it into, be sure to snap it shut when your bending over.

 

[mcnair55]

Buy a D25c clicky and wear it around your neck on a lanyard,no problems with dropping it and such a versatile light no other light would be needed ever again.

 

[lightmyfire13]

Solarforce p1 host lightweight and ur choice of dropin. ..

 

[KITROBASKIN]

Would you please tell us what you think broke on your P12? What battery did you have in it and what kind/how wide of a button top it has? I'm just wondering if a wide button top on your battery impacted the physical reverse polarity protection ring, cracking the PCB underneath it.

Is the tail switch functioning? You could use a paper clip or something to bypass the tailcap to test, (if you haven't already). Did you know that some SolarForce tail switches (L2P for one) can work with your P12?

Unless you have a consistent method of use, a side switch can be fiddly; finding the button. The ZL SC62d works great for me but may not have enough 'full on' for your needs. The UI is quite efficient on the ZebraLight (my opinion). I also use a Nite-Ize headstrap on my P12 and SC62, greatly lessening the chance for gravity crashes, in hand, or on the head. And I use narrow diameter shock cord for lanyards on the bigger torches... Just suggesting...

 

[UnderPar]

With the list of lights, you gave. I would say go for a Zebralight. No tail-switch, but has a great beam for up-close work, and nice high/low modes.

I second to this.

 

[yoyoman]

I see you have Elzetta on the OP. Oveready has the Elzetta AVS Bravo custom bored to take 18mm cells. 900 lumens on 2x18350 and 500 lumens on 1x18650 (long declining output). More expensive than a Malkoff, which takes 18mm cells without custom boring. Both lights are very tough and have well deserved fans.