Olight S1 Mini High CRI impressions

jon_slider

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attach a ring to the back surface using some kind of glue?

I dont known, I have no experience with glueing a ring. Let us know what you learn.

a couple other options:

you can swap the tail of the S1 Baton
43528908912_f482654526_b.jpg


Or you can use the lanyard hole on the S1 Mini pocket clip:
 
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recDNA

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I dont known, I have no experience with glueing a ring. Let us know what you learn.

a couple other options:

you can swap the tail of the S1A for keyring use


Or you can use the lanyard hole on the S1 Mini pocket clip:
I use the lanyard hole but it sucks that way. Have to take my keys off my carabiner belt clip to aim light.

I don't have an s1a tail laying around.
 

recDNA

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I remove the light from the keyring...
43555288451_c3446da99e_h.jpg


43555288531_eca1f458cf_h.jpg


I hope you share a solution that works for your needs
I'm looking for a new flashlight for my keychain. I have no solution. Sorry but your solution is no easier for me. I am accustomed to grabbing a light hanging from belt carabiner and just pointing and turning on without disconnecting anything. I usually have a briefcase in my other hand. Even worse when struggling with an umbrella.

I have an Eagletac D25c I could use but it is much heavier. Considering many options. I don't like optics anyway
 
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jon_slider

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S1r looks too big for keychain if that was your suggestion.

S1R tailcap fits the S1 Mini, if you want a CR123 light on your keys, but I agree S1R are a bit too big for my keychain.

I like something lighter and smaller on my keys, so I choose AAA.

I like the AAA Olight i3s, it has really nice threads, and very useful UI, for my needs.

good luck with your shopping :)
 
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recDNA

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S1A tailcap fits the S1 Mini, if you want a CR123 light on your keys, but I agree they are a bit too big for my keychain.

I like something lighter and smaller on my keys, so I choose AAA.

I like the AAA Olight i3s, it has really nice threads, and very useful UI, for my needs.

good luck with your shopping :)
I get that but I can't just buy a tailcap!
 

jon_slider

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S1r looks too big for keychain if that was your suggestion.
agreed
my typo edit, I mistakenly posted S1A and an S1A photo when I should have posted S1 Baton, edited my post and photo a few posts back

you can swap the tail of the S1 Baton:
43528908912_f482654526_b.jpg


I can't just buy a tailcap!

true :), you are going to have to buy a whole new light, if you want a tailcap keyring attachment point on a 16340 light. Unless you want to McGyver a tail mod to your Olight S1 Mini, but I dont recommend that.
Let us know what you end up with.

here is one other 16340 light that I can think of, that has a tailcap keyring option:
(The Utorch offers a NW led also, and the aspheric lens is very floody, which can be very useful in some situations..., click pick for my comparison of this Utorch S1 Mini, to the Olight version)



16340 lights w TailCap KeyRing attachment yes/no

Olight S1 Mini: no
Olight S Mini: no
Klarus Mi1C: no

Olight S1 Baton: yes
Olight S1R: yes
Utorch S1 Mini: yes

feel free to add to the list
 
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frigide

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Is have a broken S1 can i swap the tailcap with a S1 mini? That's will solve many problems!
 

jon_slider

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Is have a broken S1 can i swap the tailcap with a S1 mini? That's will solve many problems!

I have not tried, I do think the tailcaps fit but, I notice now that the S1 has a tailspring,

the S1 Mini does not have a tailspring:
42963242714_4a18b71fe9_h.jpg


so, the tails are NOT IDENTICAL

I suggest you NOT plan on using the S1 Mini tail on the S1, instead contact Olight for possible assitance with your broken S1 Baton
 

jon_slider

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I think your mom will like it.

The click on click off interface, with memory, is very simple.

However the light is quite sophisticated, and does most of the things a standard HDS Clicky is programmed for by default, but with fewer clicks (and the presets cannot be brightness altered, and there is no momentary option).

It also has ramping, by press hold from on it will cycle low 15 lumens, medium 60 lumens, high 300 lumens, low, medium, high. Release at desired level, and that becomes the new memorized mode. (note specs in this post are the Not High CRI values.. for the HiCRI the numbers are 0.5-10-50-250-450)

In addition there are three flashaholic shortcuts:
press hold from off for moonlight of 0.5 lumens. Moonlight does get memorized, but is not in the ramping cycle.

and there is a double click for turbo of 600 lumen, it works from off or from on, the same. Turbo is not memorized.

and, there is a triple click for strobe, it works from off or from on, the same. Strobe is not memorized.

Plus there is a low battery indicator for 16340, the switch button has a dim red led that turns on at 3.4v
There is no need to do a battery reset if you use CR123, and there is no built in overdischarge shutoff, but the included 16340 has built in overdischarge protection at 2.7v that turns the light off if mom does not notice the red low battery indicator sooner.

besides all that, there is a Lockout with a 3 second press hold, release it the same way.

and there are 2 shut off timers, 3 minute or 9 minute. I wont describe how to get there... thats going to be in tomorrows open book quiz.. lol, not really, but you can look it up if interested. :)
 
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nitebrite

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John Slider, Is the O-light considerably brighter than your Maratac? Is the O-light the same level of quality? Just thought I would order Amazon today while wait for my custom.
 

jon_slider

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Yes the 16340 powered Olight S1 Mini High CRI is brighter (max 450 lumens) than the Copper AAA Maratac (maximum 90 lumens)

Lights based on AAA are smaller, and less bright, than lights that use 16340.I

Yes Olight is outstanding quality.

I have both the Olight S1 Mini High CRI and the Olight S1 Mini (Cool White Low CRI).

I prefer the Olight S1 Mini Low CRI model (max 600 lumens) because the High CRI model has a lot of Green in the Beam (even though it is High CRI, and I usually prefer High CRI).

The copper Maratac is the same weight as the Olight. However, the Maratac can be modified to use a Nichia, the Olight cannot be modified.

BTW, here is a sale listing from Olight, you may be able to save a bit off MSRP by making an offer, instead of using Amazon. The Cool White S1 Mini is also available from illumn.com for 30% off with code blacknovember.
 
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markr6

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I saw a video on this one. It looks like the mode cycling is much quicker, which is great. My older S1 is PAINFULLY slow to the point where it's almost useless. I keep it in my shed outside and almost never use it.
 

jon_slider

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Yes, the S1 Mini cycles modes very quickly. I only have to hold the button for less than one second (count to 1).

By contrast, to access moonlight, which can only be reached from off, I have to count to 3. That one can cause lockout if I count to 4 while holding the button. The S1 Mini turns on to moon at the 3 count but then turns off at the 4th count, thats a hint that the light is now locked out.

In the S1 Mini, while in lockout, pressing the button produces zero light. This is different than with the S Mini, where pressing the button after lockout, produces "Tactical Momentary" Moonlight... which I hate. The S Mini also ramps as quickly as the S1 Mini.

Another difference is that the S1 Mini has a separate High Mode from Turbo, while the S Mini goes from Medium to Turbo, and there is no way to access the High Mode except to wait for Turbo to step down.

I have no S1 Baton experience.
 

nitebrite

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Thanks. Current Maratac is Nichia 219 at 170Lm. I am sure the Olight is still much brighter.
 

jon_slider

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Maratac makes some incredible lumen claims
I have tested several, that at the time claimed 130 lumens. They tested the same as my Nichia 219b Tools, 90 lumens.

I recently got a 219C Tool, it tests at 110 Lumens. The new Maratac uses XP-G3 and is made by Lumintop. I suspect part of the difference is Maratac quotes LED lumens, not actual lumens out the front of the light.

this article says LED lumens can vary by 25% from OutTheFront lumens... but even that does not account for a claim of 170 lumens, for a light that actually puts out 110.. dont believe Maratac specs.

disclaimer, I have not tested a 219c Maratac AAA, so I could be wrong.
fwiw, the 219C Tool is greener tinted than the 219B Tool, and 219B Maratac.

I have a 219B maratac for sale, pm me if interested.

In any case, an AAA light will never be as bright or run as long on the same brightness, as a 16340 light such as the Olight. The battery itself makes a Huge difference in lumens and capacity.

Here is a size comparison of a Maratac AAA and an Olight S1 Mini
29881529608_0a0d54feac_b.jpg

they weigh the same btw

the Olight makes a better headlamp, is shorter but fatter, and there is no Nichia for Olight. No light is perfect, and the lack of Nichia is an important reason why I own both Nichia Maratacs plus Olights.

fwiw, I measured the lumens on a Maratac CR123 light, its claimed to be a 450 lumen light, I measured 238 lumens. Thats a HUUUGE difference.. Just so you know my meter is reasonably accurate, and Olight specs are too, I measured both my High CRI S1 Mini, and my Cool White S1 Mini, and they both achieved their specified outputs of 450 lumens and 600 lumens, with the provided 16340 battery.
 
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