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Sold/Expired Pre-Order JM-PhD-X1, PWM Lantern Regulator

JimmyM

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Correct me if I am wrong, but aren't the programmed voltage "slots"
#1 and #2 supposed to be the only ones that work when all the other "slots"
are 0.0V as I had on my program detail form?
Functioanlly, yes. You specified the voltage correctly.
However, when the programming is done, the unused levels (set to 0.0V) are commented out, not set to zero.
I'm getting the files BVH used to program your regulator to see what happened.
below is a clip from on of the config files for another regulator.
---
/* These are the LEVEL1, LEVEL2, etc levels as volts.
If you want only 2 levels (low and high) comment out LEVEL3, LEVEL4, and LEVEL5.
If you just want ON-OFF, comment out LEVEL2, LEVEL3, LEVEL4, and LEVEL5.
LEVEL1 MUST ALWAYS BE DEFINED.
Also, you can set the values in descending order, so the first level is the highest.
*/
#define LEVEL1 30.0 // 30.0 Vbulb
#define LEVEL2 29.0 // 29.0 Vbulb
//#define LEVEL3 27.0 // 27.0 Vbulb
//#define LEVEL4 25.0 // 25.0 Vbulb
//#define LEVEL5 16.0 // 12.0 Vbulb
---
In this example, only levels 1 & 2 are in use.
 

JimmyM

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OK. BVH sent me the firmware files he used. I found a few issues that I believe would have caused problems.
I've taken the settings from your regulator's config file and converted them to a Rev2 firmware.
I can re-program you regulator free of charge. You will have to pay for return shipping though.
 

BVH

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Well good to know what I did so as not to do it again. That's a very nice offer Jimmy! Thank you for everything, including these great regulators!
 

japudjuha

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Hey Jimmy, Thanks for the offer. I will take you up on that.
Could you maybe PM me your address and any other detailsyou need from me for the board.

These are the settings I gave BVH for programming.
Leaving avoltage as 0.0V will mean that level is not enabled.
Level-1: 30.0V
Level-2: 25.0V
Level-3: 0.0V
Level-4: 0.0V
Level-5: 0.0V
Memory Start: Yes
Soft Start: MED
Vlow: 0.0V
Vlow Warning Type: -
Vlow voltage based shutdown: Disabled
Vlow timed shutdown: Disabled
Vlow Latch: Disable
Over Temp Warning Type: Dimming
Relay Disconnect: Disable


I can post it across (I'm in Australia) and I can thenpaypal you for your postage costs.

Thanks a lot!

 

japudjuha

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I posted theboard this afternoon.

Could you pleaseupdate me when you receive it and have had a chance to look it over?
Thanks again.
James

 

japudjuha

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Messages
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Well, I had my regulator board back from JimmyM freshlyprogrammed.
Also had a Q4559X as a gift for the last one that instaflashed.

Now I have set up this orange host with the wiring in anIDENTICAL fashion to my first LK14 which
runs very reliably and never had any issue with it.

The only difference is that the Vlow was not enabled and I was to manually keepan eye on the Lipo
voltage during operation. Only 2 output levels were chosen 30v and 25v.

Operation is to use the master switch on the positive line,which would power the regulator board, enable the cooling fan, and activate thedigital voltmeter.
Once the momentary switch was pushed it should have activated the light as pernormal.

------------------------------------------​

What happened with the test was:

- All wiring connected , master Switch activated – Voltage display activatedaccurately 44.6v
And cooling fan came on.

-I pressed the momentary switch once, heard a buzz/hum, but no light at all.

-Second press of the momentary switch and the Q4559X insta-flashed, and thevoltage display unit
gave off the blue smoke of death.

------------------------------------------------

My guess is that I somehow shorted the system with the Voltage Display, but Idon't know.

I have included two diagrams. The first is closer to the actual layout withinthe host body.
The second is a slight modification of Jimmy's original diagram.
But unless I have made a mistake, should represent the same circuit.

As I mentioned, minus the digital voltmeter, my 1st gen LK14 works atreat.

Please, can someone shed some light on this for me?
This is the second time this has instaflashed.

Please Help

James
Japudjuha












 

JimmyM

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Your diagram looks correct. I can't figure out what would cause the flashes unless the regulator had some sort of internal failure and wasn't regulating. I'm going to take one of the regulators I haven't sold because of one issue or another. I believe one of them has a bad microprocessor. I'll rebuild/retest it and send it to you. I still have your software file to program it. So I have your settings. I'm going to set it up with 2 sets of settings (selected by the onboard DIP switches). One set if values that is less aggressive (28V max) and then also your settings. I'll attach instructions with the regulator in the box.
 

JimmyM

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Well how about that. While troubleshooting one of my lame regulators (first one has a bad FET driver I think.). Any way... I found that I have enough parts to build 2, maybe 3, more regulators. So I built one and have just started testing it.

Question... How much current does your fan draw at 12V? I want to try to simulate things before I send this thing out.
 

JimmyM

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I tested the 12V Aux output with a 44 Volt input. It holds 11.4V at 415mA. 11.8V no load. That's fine since there's a schottky diode in there. The board shows 12V, But that's just a nominal value.
The regulator performs as expected.
I've added a new feature to the whole software package. A 2nd range of output levels accessible by flipping DIP switch position #1. Works very nicely even if there are different numbers of levels in each range.

For your new "test regulator" I have the below settings
Level-1: 30.0V
Level-2: 25.0V

--NEW Range 2-- (Sent in this setting)
R2 Level-1: 28.0V
R2 Level-2: 25.0V

Memory Start: Yes
Soft Start: MED --> Switched to SLOW (Medium I think is too fast for going straight to 30V)
Don't worry. SLOW start will still be quite impressive.

Over Temp Warning Type: Dimming
Relay Disconnect: Disable


-- I'm going to change the Low Voltage setting to 17V due to the minimum
allowed by the internal regulator: I recommend setting values appropriate for your batteries.

Vlow: 0.0V --> Switched to 17V
Vlow Warning Type: - Pulse (Default)
Vlow voltage based shutdown: Disabled --> Yes 100% = Immediate shutdown at 17V
Vlow timed shutdown: Disabled
Vlow Latch: Disable
 

japudjuha

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Hey Jimmy the cooling fan I am using is only drawing 165-170mA. It's just a 60mm 12v computer fan.


The 2 x 6S 5000maH (in series) LiPo's I said that I will be using, will be the only batteries I'll be using for this project.
The only possible, but most likely never, other batteries I would use would be 3 x deep cycle 12v(or 3x car batteries).


Thanks
James
 

japudjuha

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Not sure if I mentioned before or not but the digital voltmeter got fried aswell. I saw a few sparks and it gave of some blue smoke.
It's a 7-55v DC two-wire self powered unit.
As far as I know it was working ok prior to installation, I tested it on a 12v sla and I'd gave a good reading.


Just trying to think of anything else that could be to blame


James
 
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JimmyM

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The only thing I can think of would be the switching noise. Hard switching 30+ amps makes a lot of inductive noise. 100+ volts in some cases.

Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Tapatalk
 

JimmyM

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So, Japudjuha, how do the settings look? Do you want me to implement the low voltage warning as posted above and send it out?
 

japudjuha

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Yes please Jimmy.


The settings look good to me. I trust your judgement with all the other settings you've mentioned given the info I have provided, which is the only way it will be used.


I Really appreciate this Jimmy.


Third times the charm hopefully.
Prayers to the lords of photons already given lol ;)

do you need my address again?
 

JimmyM

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I should have it from your PayPals. I'll send it out asap.

Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

japudjuha

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Hey Jimmy, the regulator arrived today - Thankyou.
I will get to testing as soon as I can.

The 'two-stage' programming you mentioned, is that changed by the No.1 dipswitch, the left one, of
the two on the small black square with two switches?

From what you said, it was shipped in the "28v+25v" state. To change to the "30v+25v"state, do I just throw the No.1 dip switch down? (currently #1 is UP and #2 isDOWN)

Thanks a lot.


 
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