Problem with Fenix PD35

[UMDTERPS]

I've been noticing issues with my PD35 between high and turbo. Sometimes the turbo works, sometimes it doesn't. I tired replacing the battery, but that doesn't seem to help. When I click the button to go to turbo, I see no difference in spacing. Has anyone else has this issue?

I'm not a huge fan of the switch, I'm almost tempted to get a pd35 tac because it has a regular button. Do both lights have a similar beam profile?

 

[CelticCross74]

ah the PD35 my specialty. Okay first do you know how to tighten the ring in the tailcap? Clean all contact points in the light with rubbing alcohol and Q tips. What batteries are you using? The TAC is bright as hell its tint is extremely white not every body is a fan of that but I like it.

 

[UMDTERPS]

ah the PD35 my specialty. Okay first do you know how to tighten the ring in the tailcap? Clean all contact points in the light with rubbing alcohol and Q tips. What batteries are you using? The TAC is bright as hell its tint is extremely white not every body is a fan of that but I like it.

I'm using Fenix branded batteries, 2600 and 3500. I'm counting every press (there should be 4 clicks), when I get to the 4th click nothing happens and when I press the button the 5th time it goes back to low. High is pretty damn bright, but there should be a diff between 460 and 960 lumens. Arggggh:duh2:

I'll clean the contacts and see what happens. I guess if that does nothing we can assume turbo is lost.

 

[UMDTERPS]

ah the PD35 my specialty. Okay first do you know how to tighten the ring in the tailcap? Clean all contact points in the light with rubbing alcohol and Q tips. What batteries are you using? The TAC is bright as hell its tint is extremely white not every body is a fan of that but I like it.

Looks like that worked, but I don't know if it was the fact I just took it apart. You mention proper tightening the ring on the tail cap, is there a proper proceedure? Ring mean the whole assemble with the switch?

 

[CelticCross74]

no all is not lost Fenix has a state side warranty repair facility now in New York state. Okay you have solid cells. For now stick with the 3500mah cell. What charger are you using? Yes simply cleaning the contact points, in the head as well, can take care of many things. You have the original 850 lumen or the 2014 version?

Not to long ago my first of 5 PD35 series lights, the original 850 that I got in 2011 or 2012, that I had beaten to death lost its lower modes. I contacted Fenix and the contacted me back asking for the serial number. I copied it off the light and sent it to them. They then email me an address in New York state for FREE warranty repair. The light had been out of warranty an awful long time. Okay so I sent the light to New York expecting not to see it again for a couple of months. 12 days later it was back in my mailbox totally rebuilt for free. It actually works better now than it did new.

It sounds like whats happening is your cell or cells are undercharged and just cannot provide the juice for turbo.

 

[UMDTERPS]

no all is not lost Fenix has a state side warranty repair facility now in New York state. Okay you have solid cells. For now stick with the 3500mah cell. What charger are you using? Yes simply cleaning the contact points, in the head as well, can take care of many things. You have the original 850 lumen or the 2014 version?

Not to long ago my first of 5 PD35 series lights, the original 850 that I got in 2011 or 2012, that I had beaten to death lost its lower modes. I contacted Fenix and the contacted me back asking for the serial number. I copied it off the light and sent it to them. They then email me an address in New York state for FREE warranty repair. The light had been out of warranty an awful long time. Okay so I sent the light to New York expecting not to see it again for a couple of months. 12 days later it was back in my mailbox totally rebuilt for free. It actually works better now than it did new.

It sounds like whats happening is your cell or cells are undercharged and just cannot provide the juice for turbo.

The PD35 is the 2014 960 lumen variant. The Fenix 3500 is pack fresh, I don't have a multimeter at the moment because the battery died in mine (I need to hit up harbor freight tools). That's awesome Fenix moved ops to NY, I will keep that in mind. The turbo mode issues were happening with both batteries, so it could have been just the cleaning that fixed the issue? I'm not sold on the button, feels kind of flimsy, so the next light will be the pd35 tac. Is the beam similar been the reg and tac? I bought a Nitecore MH20 as a backup because I was having turbo mode switch issues with the PD35.

cheers!

 

[Rhinny2012]

Here is a link to how to tighten the ring inside the tail cap in case that is your problem. I have done it before with a strong paper clip and it solved a flickering problem.

http://www.fenix-store.com/troubleshooting-your-flashlight/

 

[CelticCross74]

thanks for that Rhinny2012. Okay OP you have the 2014 cool. Your 3500 is pack fresh? It still needs to be charged. Pack fresh is usually only 3.6 volts it needs charged to 4.2v. Do you have a charger at all? Sounds like both batteries are just undercharged to pump to turbo.

Cleaning. No light leaves the factory clean. You will be shocked to find how dirty some lights come new in the box. It is just a wise thing to do cleaning the points, checking the tail ring. The side switch I am just totally so used to it does not bother me at all. That first PD35 that I had repaired had been washed down into a sewer at night during a flash flood it was on turbo I watched it go down into the sewer and start thrashing about in the flood water. F that that light was expensive! So during a raging downpour at night I ran over and opened the manhole cover climbed in and dove for the light and got it. That light had been dropped by accident nearly 30 feet and was still fine. It had been all but run over by a car and the switch was still good.

I do admit a steel switch is nice. 2014 vs TAC. The beam profile is roughly the same its just there is an output jump and the tint is very white which on max is blinding it has an XP-L HD emitter. The TAC mode which is controlled through the tail switch only goes High Strobe Low. So you can be in strobe in a second. Then you can transition out of TAC mode to "outdoor" mode which allows you to control all the modes through the side switch.

You got an MH20? Which one? I have all 3. Awesome awesome light its literally a new classic. The standard cool white MH20 is the highest out put of the 3. So what charger do you have? Your cells need charging man. Pack fresh just means pack fresh they do NOT come fully charged you do still need to charge them when you get them out of the package.

 

[UMDTERPS]

thanks for that Rhinny2012. Okay OP you have the 2014 cool. Your 3500 is pack fresh? It still needs to be charged. Pack fresh is usually only 3.6 volts it needs charged to 4.2v. Do you have a charger at all? Sounds like both batteries are just undercharged to pump to turbo.

Cleaning. No light leaves the factory clean. You will be shocked to find how dirty some lights come new in the box. It is just a wise thing to do cleaning the points, checking the tail ring. The side switch I am just totally so used to it does not bother me at all. That first PD35 that I had repaired had been washed down into a sewer at night during a flash flood it was on turbo I watched it go down into the sewer and start thrashing about in the flood water. F that that light was expensive! So during a raging downpour at night I ran over and opened the manhole cover climbed in and dove for the light and got it. That light had been dropped by accident nearly 30 feet and was still fine. It had been all but run over by a car and the switch was still good.

I do admit a steel switch is nice. 2014 vs TAC. The beam profile is roughly the same its just there is an output jump and the tint is very white which on max is blinding it has an XP-L HD emitter. The TAC mode which is controlled through the tail switch only goes High Strobe Low. So you can be in strobe in a second. Then you can transition out of TAC mode to "outdoor" mode which allows you to control all the modes through the side switch.

You got an MH20? Which one? I have all 3. Awesome awesome light its literally a new classic. The standard cool white MH20 is the highest out put of the 3. So what charger do you have? Your cells need charging man. Pack fresh just means pack fresh they do NOT come fully charged you do still need to charge them when you get them out of the package.

I have the ARE-C2 4 bay charger, is Fenix discontinuing chargers? Seems to be buried on their site. I just bought a Nitecore D4. I have the regular Nitecore MH20, the GT is a little overkill and I prefer a little better runtime. The one thing I don't like about is the one switch, I end up switching to higher Modes by accident.

 

[cp2315]

I don't have pd35 but have a pd35 tac. I see same thing when battery gets low. It is reasonable. The battery is not enough to support the turbo mode, so it falls to next lower mode.
Recharge your battery and you will see the difference. It is not big visually. But can be seen. However I agree that it is annoying that turbo is the same as high when the cell is still half full.

 

[CelticCross74]

okay stick your two cells in the D4 and charge them all the way. That should take care of your issue. You mean youre having problems with the MH20 switch? Guess I can see it Ive never had a problem with it. The GT is a freaking light howitzer. No I do not think Fenix is doing away with chargers. Charge your cells and stick the 3500mah cell in the PD35 and you should be good to go. Its nice and dark out now so you will really be able to tell.

 

[fenix1]

I have the ARE-C2 4 bay charger, is Fenix discontinuing chargers? Seems to be buried on their site. I just bought a Nitecore D4. I have the regular Nitecore MH20, the GT is a little overkill and I prefer a little better runtime. The one thing I don't like about is the one switch, I end up switching to higher Modes by accident.

@UMDTERPS We're sorry to hear that you've had trouble with your light, but also happy for you great guys out there who are so helpful! In answer to your question about our chargers - no, we are definitely not discontinuing our charger series. In fact, we just released a new one last week. Our charger range can be found under: Accessories - Battery chargers and rechargeable batteries.

Thanks for your support!

 

[CelticCross74]

It worked OP? You took it apart and just put it back together now it works? Happy it works but the cleaning, tail ring and charging up your cells still has to happen. The link a couple posts above explains everything with photos

 

[UMDTERPS]

It worked OP? You took it apart and just put it back together now it works? Happy it works but the cleaning, tail ring and charging up your cells still has to happen. The link a couple posts above explains everything with photos

Looks like cleaning the contacts was the issue. I will keep that link in mind. My light is bright as day now!

Thanks for the help!

Cheers

 

[glockboy]

Try using the high drain battery 18650 (20 or 30 amp draw), you'll see the different between the high and turbo all the time 'till the battery is low.
On normal 18650 battery, I see turbo for about 10 minutes, then it the same as high.