R17670 (2x123 size) Question

[Ace12]

How long do the rechargable 17670 usually last? ( Approx how many charges)

 

[mdocod]

hundreds if you use them right. Trick is not to drain them completely down all the time, recharge them when you have a chance after using the light for a little while. They will run the light for about 3-4 hours or so on high, but try to charge after about 2-3 hours whenever possible, this will maximize cycle life.

 

[carmatic]

i have an idea... suppose that i have a fenix T1 (and i do ) , it has a low battery warning system... if i were to use an unprotected 3.7v 17670 and rely on the light's low battery warning to know when to stop using the light, will that work? i suppose it depends on what fenix has set their 'low battery warning voltage' as ....

 

[mdocod]

I'm not sure the P3D and T1 work right on single 17670s, If I recall, they will start their "low battery" behavior when the cell is still mostly full.

 

[carmatic]

yeah, shame really, i've just read some reviews where a single cell powers it in high mode for just over 14 minutes while 7.4v makes it run for almost an hour... i suppose that a high voltage --> buck regulation is more efficient than a low voltage working at high amp draws?? but is the tradeoff in the space taken up by the extra terminals and pcbs and whatnot worth it, when all that space can be filled with more electrolyte... then again, the guy testing it managed to run one of his rcr123's down to 0v and made the light cut out

 

[HunkaBurninLove]

As far as the actual benefits, it all depends on the application. The use of a single 18650 or 17670 in a 2 CR123A LED light is quite popular because although the maximum output may be a bit lower, you often end up with a considerable runtime increase. Many call this effect "guilt-free lumens".

Arghhh. I was debating this when I order my AW batteries: 2 x RCR123 vs 1 x 17670.

I ended up getting 4 x RCR123 because I have a Surefire 6R that I converted to a 9P+spacer+P90 lamp. My plan is to eventually get an LED head with a voltage range that can handle 2 or 3 x RCR123.

 

[mdocod]

Hi Hunka

I'm not sure entirely what you mean by "9P+spacer+P90 lamp"
are you running a 1 cell extender, and then a dummy cell and 2xRCR123s for the P90?

Or is is basically still just a 6P with a pair of RCR123s and a P90?

if you are talking about a 9P size light, you'll be better off with a pair of 17500 size Li-Ion cells, that will give you the ~7.4V that a lot of modules are compatible with and capacity similar to 3xCR123 primaries.

 

[HunkaBurninLove]

Hi Hunka

I'm not sure entirely what you mean by "9P+spacer+P90 lamp"
are you running a 1 cell extender, and then a dummy cell and 2xRCR123s for the P90?

Or is is basically still just a 6P with a pair of RCR123s and a P90?

if you are talking about a 9P size light, you'll be better off with a pair of 17500 size Li-Ion cells, that will give you the ~7.4V that a lot of modules are compatible with and capacity similar to 3xCR123 primaries.

Sorry, mdocod, I should have clarified. I've been out of the loop with the rechargeables technology and have been researching stuff here the past few weeks. My brain is a tad overloaded with the all the numbers in your Compatibility Chart

My current setup is an old Surefire 6R (rechargeable) that I use 3 x CR123 and a P90 incandescent bulb (the tube on the 6R to house the B90 rechargeable battery is slightly longer than a 6P+1 cell extender). The 3 x CR123's don't quite fill the whole 6R tube so I have a small wooden dowel (~3/8") with an aluminum rod center to fill the gap. So I guess it's a "ghetto" 9P wannabe. The 6R tube can be removed and the light will be a 6P.

I've been looking at the new P60 LED drop-ins and just got a Wolf-Eyes 3.7-13V Q5 from Pacific Tactical. So, I tried it with the "3 x primary CR123" and the LED drop-in works so far.

When I ordered the AW rechargeables to use with the LED drop-in, I was debating between buying "1 x 17670" (to use as a 6P), or "3 x RCR123" (to give me the flexibility of running a 6P or 9P+wooden spacer). I ended up buying "3 x RCR123".

So my 6P runtime might not be as long as using a 17670, but I end up having the the flexibility.

I hope that makes sense because it will make sense in my head, but sometimes I leave out important info when explaining to someone else

 

[mdocod]

ok, yea, 2x17500s would have been a little better, but that will work.

 

[marinemaster]

What I have is a Pila GL2 with AW 18650 and a Deerlight 3SD. One of the best setup I have found. I was getting tired of having primary 123 cost me a lot everytime. Very long runtime on the 18650. I love my Pila. Is the newest design.

I do not have any 17670 but I am thinking to get some and use them in my SF 6P with the same drop in 3SD Deerlight.

I have been on the SF road before....great lights, but the cost of the primary 123 has been burning me....

I cant stand r123 because of their low mA, not enough runtime for me. I refuse to buy r123 I never will.

 

[mdocod]

What I have is a Pila GL2 with AW 18650 and a Deerlight 3SD. -marinemaster

that is a really smart setup, for anyone watching along here... follow this guys lead if you want rechargeable Li-Ion to be worth your while. 18650 powering an assembly that stays in regulation on the 18650 through the run. Smart!

 

[marinemaster]

Thanks mdocod. It took me a while to arrive to this setup. Necessity is the mother of all inventions. And to top it all off I also have the Pila IBC charger.

It did cost more, but I know I have quality components that will last for year and will give dependable service.

Chris

 

[Nake]

I'm not sure the P3D and T1 work right on single 17670s, If I recall, they will start their "low battery" behavior when the cell is still mostly full.

With my P3D Q5 and the T1 I briefly owned, both would give the low battery warning immediately upon turning them on, in Turbo, with a fully charged 17670. An older P3D Q2 I have will run for 43 minutes in Turbo before the warning comes on. Another P3D Rebel will run 20 some minutes. I wonder if it's the Vf of the LEDs or how the warning is set in the converter.

 

[eh4]

Clearly size does matter.
If it's too big, there's no way that you can shim it to fit.