Ra Clicky Part 9

[m16a]

Hey guys, I doubt there will be much interest left, since this has been done on numerous occasions, but I'm finally getting around to doing a runtime test on my Clicky. I'm using a brand new Battery Station Blue Jacket CR123A cell, and I am letting the light go on at 140 and drop to 100. I started at 5:01, and I'll post some updates in case anyone is curious. No lux meter, just a simple water cooled test.

M16a

Howdy all! The first double blink and dropdown occurred at 6:14 PM for a grand total of 73 minutes after an instance of burst mode. It isn't spectacular compared to some other Clickys, but 73 minutes on a single cell at a legit 100lm ain't bad! :twothumbs

 

[jblackwood]

Good to hear about the run time on this very interesting light.

My question was more about whether or not the button was less protrudy than it was before if you press it in while you screw on the tailcap. Any thoughts?

 

[jimmy1970]

Good to hear about the run time on this very interesting light.

My question was more about whether or not the button was less protrudy than it was before if you press it in while you screw on the tailcap. Any thoughts?

My original clicky tailcap had a 'concave' rubber button allowing perfect tailstanding.

After this original tailcap failed, I was sent a replacement (newer style that allows the tailcap to removed from the battery tube).

This replacement has a 'convex' rubber clicky. Tailstanding is still possible but the light does lean over slightly. I have found pushing the button in whilst attaching the battery tube does not have any affect on the amount the rubber clicky protrudes.

James....

 

[jblackwood]

Thanks James. If no one else posts any other opinions, I'll just assume you ALL agree with that statement. :ironic: Too bad about the tailstanding. Kind of a must here in hurricane country.

 

[jimmy1970]

Thanks James. If no one else posts any other opinions, I'll just assume you ALL agree with that statement. :ironic: Too bad about the tailstanding. Kind of a must here in hurricane country.

Apart from the leaning tailstand, my Ra Clicky Executive truely is my most prized light. Infact, I just purchased and received a second Clicky 140Cn Tactical the other day. I have never bothered purchasing a second light of the same type before - never saw the need - with the Clicky, if I loose/have stolen etc my light, I must have an identical back up available at a moments notice to take over EDC duties.

I use my light numerous times throughout the day and night.

IMHO, this light has no equal - I have tried numerous other lights, e.g Novatac 120P etc but I personally find the 140Cn Clicky the 'King of the Hill' - overbuilt, over engineered & overly complicated in a good way!! I leave the customisation mode active in both my lights and regularly adjust the light settings and 'option menu' settings - it is fun trying different options and combinations.

Sure, the tailstanding situation isn't ideal but you can still tailstand the light - tower of Piza style!!

James...:twothumbs

 

[joema]

OK my run time test finished on my Ra Clicky Exectutive 140. At the lowest level on a new Duracell CR123A, it ran 16 days (about 380 hours) to depletion.

That is definitely less than my previous HDS U60, which ran about 1,000 hr on the same battery type.

OTOH, I'm not convinced the Ra is putting out 0.07 lumens -- maybe it's more. If lumen output is higher on the lowest level, then it's understandable current drain is higher. I don't have my HDS to cross-check, but I did take a point blank lux reading on my HDS before I sold it.

Unfortunately the HDS had already been modified with an SSC P4 emitter, which increased output. So on the lowest level, my modified HDS was brighter than a stock HDS U60. The modified HDS produced 195 lux. My Ra Clicky on lowest level produced about 225 lux.

If anyone has a stock HDS they could take a point-blank lux reading on and compare to a Ra, that would be interesting. E.g. turn the light on lowest level, set lux meter to appropriate setting, rest light directly on the lux sensor.

 

[m16a]

Guys, while I don't know the actual specs, I do know that I posed the question of runtime on the lowest levels to Henry during some of my phone calls in the past. While he didn't do an actual test, his wording was basically "for the better part of a month".

When I asked him why the runtime was so "poor" (I put quotes around poor, because anything running for over half a month, and providing useful illumination, isn't a pushover, just lower than previous) in comparison to the old HDS lights, he said that the circuit sacrifices runtime at the very low levels to gain time at the much higher levels. I don't know the science or the specifics, and if I missed something or messed something up, Henry or someone more knowledgeable than myself can correct me, but that is what I know on the topic based on what Henry has told me.

Also, would anyone be interested in me doing an RCR123A 51lm (level 20 on the 140 series) runtime test? I use that level fairly often when I need more light (I reserve 140/100 only for times where the greatest amount is actually necessary) and I've been curious myself.

 

[HDS_Systems]

Kgp,

The original warm white lights we were selling many months ago had a CRI of 83. These 93 CRI LEDs are significantly better and also have a higher output capability.

Joema,

You can configure the Ra Clicky down to 0.08 lumens - just like the older EDC Ultimate. The EDC Basic would also go that low.

That is an interesting solution to the "find me in the dark" problem. It would certainly work if you assume that you use the flashlight at least once a day or so. It would not be so good if the light were set down and not used for an extended period. The current "find me in the dark" flash is much longer and dimmer than the original and people find it much less irritating.

If you assume that a primary CR123 is good for 1400mAh, the quick and dirty calculation (1400/1.7) yields roughly 825 hours. But this does not take into account the falling cell voltage over time, which causes the current to go up. And this process is non-linear. So getting an actual run that is roughly half is not bad. If you assume you need light for 12 hours a day, that is over a month's worth of use in an emergency. If you assume you only need the light for a few hours a night, you can get several months use on one battery. Still not too bad for an emergency light.

JBlackwood,

A small O-ring under the tail, or a lanyard under the tail will allow stable tail standing even with a fair bit of button protrusion. You can store the O-ring on the battery compartment when not needed.

Henry.

 

[Theatre Booth Guy]

Thanks James. If no one else posts any other opinions, I'll just assume you ALL agree with that statement. :ironic: Too bad about the tailstanding. Kind of a must here in hurricane country.

Same with mine - except that it won't tailstand without a lanyard on either side of the nipple when the Clicky is set on it's tail. For me, this is my only complaint with what otherwise seems like an excellent value product. I'll continue dreaming that Henry will come up with a replacement that allows for proper tailstanding - that's my holdup on buying another Clicky.

 

[jblackwood]

I usually don't spend this much on a non-tail standing, one cell light (my limit was $60 for a nitecore model that didn't tailstand but was on special). i know that the burst is for about ten seconds. So if I get the 170 version (tactical, gotta have that strobe!), the "max" setting is 170? It comes on at that setting then steps down to what? 100 lumens?

If anyone else has this emitter type model (I'd order it custom since I want the flush tail), how is the tint on YOURS? I know it's basically a lottery and the tint is only guaranteed up to 140 lumens (on that particular model, not up to that power level on every light).

 

[dagored]

I usually don't spend this much on a non-tail standing, one cell light (my limit was $60 for a nitecore model that didn't tailstand but was on special). i know that the burst is for about ten seconds. So if I get the 170 version (tactical, gotta have that strobe!), the "max" setting is 170? It comes on at that setting then steps down to what? 100 lumens?

120

 

[Henk_Lu]

All the lights step back to the previous power level, which is the one they put out about 1 hour on one cell. For the 170 this is 140 (EDIT : 120!) Lumen I think, you can have a look in the user manual, the levels are described there. Another click gets you another 10 seconds burst.

The emitter is a GDP, while the guaranteed tint is a P4. My 170 is cooler to the P4 with 140 Lumen. Looking at all my lights with a GDP, the tint is slightly purple in the corona, while they can be yellowish at the hotspot, kinda special. Don't get my wrong here, my 170Cn is white, but you may discern some purplish if you speak about guaranteed tint in comparison.

I wouldn't use the term lottery anymore today, you need a lot of toughluck to get something that has a really bad tint and I believe the Ralights are more or less handmade and controlled, so that there won't be bad suprises...

 

[Yucca Patrol]

My EDC Executive will tailstand, but it is not a huge requirement for me. In an emergency situation where I want to light up a room, it is a simple task to place the light inside a cup or wedged between two objects to keep it pointed upright.

I wouldn't let the tailstanding issue prevent me from buying another light from Henry.

 

[Krotchitty]

Pay no attention to the "Tactical" or "Executive" User interface.

Either light can be customized to use the strobe in any level, and each level can be set to your desired output, so concentrate your choices on emitter output, switch type, and bezel aesthetics.

The distinction between models with the same max output is cosmetic (flat vs. raised, and coated vs. uncoated bezel). The factory pre-programmed UI is relevant only if you don't want to program the light.

I'd recommend choosing all of the features of your light on the Ra site; http://ralights.com/?id=Clicky

• Max output; (120, 140, 170)
• Beam type; (WW, narrow, wide, guaranteed tint, or 170)
• Bezel; (crenelated, smooth, coated, Ti)
• UI (doesn't really matter...see above)

 

[jblackwood]

Thanks for the answers, guys. I've tried to do my homework on this light since I get on a lot of people for not using search but I'm a little down because my laptop died and that's seriously going to curtail any other presents for me this Christmas (still have my flashlight fund, though). Anyway . . .

Yes, I figured the UI was the same, I just wanted to know that when/if I perform the factory reset, there will be a strobe setting there for me. The description says it will turn on to max, but again, I'm sure you can tell the light to come on in the lowest low or on strobe too. I like the idea that I can fiddle with this light all I want but when I reset I'll get mostly what I'm after. I kind of dig the silver looking bezel and the Tactical comes with a blackened bezel . . . but I was looking at the EDC pages, not the Clicky pages. Oops.

Again, thanks for the helpful info, guys. Looks like I'll be ordering my first Clicky soon. Also, HDS, you slip the o-ring around the button to get it to tailstand? I'm having a tough time imagining this. I've seen the pictures of the lanyard, but I'm not a lanyard kind of guy. Might the clip help tailstanding (I heard some members mention that it does, just wanted to verify from HDS).

 

[Blindasabat]

Very much agreed. I don't pay attention to tailstanding at all since I can always find something to lean against or just lay it down facing a wall. I even do that with my HDS which does tailstand. As a matter of fact, I purposely buy lights with protruding tailswitches.

My EDC Executive will tailstand, but it is not a huge requirement for me. In an emergency situation where I want to light up a room, it is a simple task to place the light inside a cup or wedged between two objects to keep it pointed upright.

I wouldn't let the tailstanding issue prevent me from buying another light from Henry.

 

[Tohuwabohu]

Also, would anyone be interested in me doing an RCR123A 51lm (level 20 on the 140 series) runtime test? I use that level fairly often when I need more light (I reserve 140/100 only for times where the greatest amount is actually necessary) and I've been curious myself.

During a passaround of a Ra Clicky Tactical 140 I did this runtime plot:

You can find more runtime plots and photos in the Passaround No. 2 Ra Clicky Review thread in the German MesserForum.net.

 

[jblackwood]

If I get the 120 Warm, high CRI version, does that mean that it's max and high are the same? Is there no step down after 10 seconds for this particular light?

 

[Kgp]

If I get the 120 Warm, high CRI version, does that mean that it's max and high are the same? Is there no step down after 10 seconds for this particular light?

I'm guessing its the same as the EDC line. 120 and drops to 85. Its would sure be nice if it didn't drop after 10 seconds though.

 

[fisk-king]

just received my RA200cn #8620 and it is truly beautiful.:twothumbs I gotta feeling (after I get used to the customization) that this will be my EDC. Precious, perhaps?