Rebel LED 5 modes?

[nanotech17]

A truly enlightened statement. Possibly the best thing a new user (yes you are still new) has said here on the CPF forum since the recent invasion of cheap crap sub par flashlights started.
Yaesumofo

:shakehead say something about this shrimp - https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/172798

 

[PocketBeam]

I think if you check back on the first post on that thread you will see those numbers are inaccurate. Edit to add the number posted previously that I was talking about.

L1D Results on Ni-Mh

EV * EC / SV * SC = Efficiency

2,80 * 0,032 / 1,302 * 0,080 = 86% on Low
3,10 * 0,134 / 1,280 * 0,390 = 83% on Medium
3,35 * 0,300 / 1,250 * 1,290 = 62% on High
3,40 * 0,340 / 1,250 * 1,320 = 70% on Turbo

Has any one seen more accurate numbers?

 

[Scott_T]

I wonder if there's some kind of hack to remove all the modes and make it just run on high. At first it was neato but now they're annoying. Not knowing what mode its going to show up next just cause you didnt hit the switch right is a pain.

 

[edc3]

I wonder if there's some kind of hack to remove all the modes and make it just run on high. At first it was neato but now they're annoying. Not knowing what mode its going to show up next just cause you didnt hit the switch right is a pain.

If you have another light with a one-stage tailcap that will fit, try that.

 

[Scott_T]

If you have another light with a one-stage tailcap that will fit, try that.

I just did a little experiment. Took off the switch and used a paper clip and it worked the same. I figured it was all in the head but I had to be scientific.
Most likely the only thing I can do is replace the driver circuit.

 

[Jefff]

Hey there .. I wanted to chime in on this tread as well .. I just received my MTE-AA Rebel100 the other day.. Here are some notes and details about mine.. The head was glued on as usual..

""I found a neat way to remove it though with out heating .. A leather belt and 2 pairs of vise gripes, wrap the head with the belt and clamp vise grip onto the belt where they meet.. not around the torch head... it makes it like a belt wrench. do the same around the body then when you twist it pulls the belt tight around the light with out marring the finish or having to clamp onto the body which may cause damage.""

Anyway after getting the light apart I found that it did not have a O-ring on the Lens.. So out of the box this would not be a dunk able light!!!! But a trip to Lowe's and a number 40 O-ring will fix it right up.. I got a box of them for $1.27 I also bought the #35 o-ring's also just incase..


Here is another factor that I found on this light.. Under the rebel star there was no heat sink compound!!! and no real way that this thing was held to the heat sink threaded slug either except the 2 wires soldered to the star.. Maybe the reflector pushes it against it? .. But at any rate un-soldered one of the leads and applied some heat sink past under it and now it seems to spread the heat to the body alot more...

One thing I want to know though is where to find an orange peel reflector that would fit in this light..? The artifacts mine has looks like a butterfly in the hot spot for some reason.. I can see 4 tiny hot spots in the center.. lol Not sure if that is a factor with the way a rebel led is made or if it is just the crappy plastic smooth reflector giving off this..

I agree about the switch being funky trying to go from one mode to the next and not knowing what the next mode it will be in when turning it off then back on ..

All in all I guess it is ok for a AA light but not a show stopper like I thought it would be in the brightness level with the rebel 100 in it.. But I guess for it's size it holds it's own.. This being said this is one of the first single AA led lights I have owned.. so maybe it is pretty good for all I know. I tested it up against my old Nuwia Q-III rcr123 with twoj bin luxIII and IMS 20mm reflector and the Q-III wins still hands down in brightness and throw..

 

[Scott_T]

Under the rebel star there was no heat sink compound!!! and no real way that this thing was held to the heat sink threaded slug either except the 2 wires soldered to the star.. Maybe the reflector pushes it against it? .. But at any rate un-soldered one of the leads and applied some heat sink past under it and now it seems to spread the heat to the body alot more...

Yikes! Let's fix that... Ok, mine had no grease but it did have an o-ring plus it had 2 thin copper washers between the head and the body too. One of the wires on mine was loose enough so I didnt have to desolder to get grease under it, just slid some in with a toothpick.

 

[wakibaki]

Posted in error... Moved to 5-mode RCR123 review

 

[Jefff]

I do agree also .. for the price it is a great light..

But mine wont tail stand.. ?? How is it that the above post says it will?

Mine also got warm pretty fast but now with the heatsink compound it get's hot alot faster.. I think the reason it is still able to heatsink with out it is because the 3 tabs under the reflector had hotglue dots on it to cause pressure on the star base when the head was tightened

 

[jirik_cz]

It will stand on its tail, but the 2 holes for the lanyard are close together, so it's going to be challenging fitting it to a keyring. I might just butcher it. After all, who cares?

Are you referring to sku. 4862 (older rebel version) or sku. 6162 (rebel 0100 version)? Because mine rebel 0100 version can't tailstand. :huh2:

 

[wakibaki]

Sorry, my mistake. I was misled by the yellow sticker. Mine is the CR123 version. I did wonder about all the posts about NiMhs and alkalines. Tunnel vision.

Sorry to hear that these won't tailstand. Mine has 2 holes about 4mm apart equidistant from the end of the torch. The lanyard passes through both holes, then through itself. Should be easy enough to do this to an existing torch,

Does anybody know if there's a thread for the CR123 version?

w

 

[jirik_cz]

there is one in reviews :wave:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/172416

 

[coolt]

I just got my CR-123A model and was impressed that it didn't heat up guickly. After reading these posts, I guess I'll have to take it apart and check for heatsink compound. Thanks for the info and also the little tip on waiting five seconds before turning it off. It was irritating that the light kept clicking into the next mode!

 

[Pax et Lux]

I went outside with it and the streamlight pp4lux. At distances of less than 10 feet or so the rebel wins with brighter spill but after that the sl pp wins with better optics and throw.

It must be about time for the SL PP Lux revival. I know we are comparing it to a one-cell light here (and a badly-made one, from all accounts, considering the last few posts) but it still holds its own. And I'm talking about a Lux I light, not the supposed latest technology. . . I can't help but think that for every two DX lights people are ordering they coulda got an SL PP Lux.

 

[jirik_cz]

It must be about time for the SL PP Lux revival. I know we are comparing it to a one-cell light here (and a badly-made one, from all accounts, considering the last few posts) but it still holds its own. And I'm talking about a Lux I light, not the supposed latest technology. . . I can't help but think that for every two DX lights people are ordering they coulda got an SL PP Lux.

Throw is not everything, for my usage SL PP Lux has too narrow beam. But if there was SL PP lux-like flashlight with new gen. emitter and wider hotspot with usable spill, I would buy it at once!

 

[Scott_T]

Well, it was the best thing I had to compare it with. It was that or my Nuwai 1 watt 2AA and thats pretty weak. But the ss pp 4aa does kick some ***. If they'd come out with a rebel/cree version I'd buy it yesterday.

It must be about time for the SL PP Lux revival. I know we are comparing it to a one-cell light here (and a badly-made one, from all accounts, considering the last few posts) but it still holds its own. And I'm talking about a Lux I light, not the supposed latest technology. . . I can't help but think that for every two DX lights people are ordering they coulda got an SL PP Lux.

 

[Martin]

I just received one of these lights and found it is NOT using PWM for dimming ! This is rare ! I like it !

 

[Buck91]

Has anybody had any issues with flickering and dimming for the first minute or so after powering this light on? Mine was great for the first week, but now its giving me problems like this.

Could be the batt's as they are only on their second recharge cycle. Thanks for any help!

 

[moon lander]

does anyone have this and the mte seoul http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1995 ? im wondering how they compare as far as output. the seoul has gotten great reviews, seems to be the best gift light, but then theres this one, which seems to be brighter, but suffers from an annoying UI. can anyone compare which is brighter? which has more throw? opinions on which would make a better gift?

 

[Nake]

does anyone have this and the mte seoul http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1995 ? im wondering how they compare as far as output. the seoul has gotten great reviews, seems to be the best gift light, but then theres this one, which seems to be brighter, but suffers from an annoying UI. can anyone compare which is brighter? which has more throw? opinions on which would make a better gift?

I have both. With an alkaline the rebel shows 64 lumens in my lightbox, the seoul 60. The rebel has a brighter hotspot so I would think better throw. I'm giving the seoul as a gift because it has a smoother beam and won't confuse the non-flashaholic user with the UI.