I have a Deadwood Timascus Huckleberry with 3x219C. It's specs claim 2,000 lumens on high. Of course I cannot hold it with a bare hand. My question is, if not stupid. If I wear a glove, Can I run it for any period of time? My understanding is that overdriving 219c's that much for more than a few seconds if begging to kill them? Please don't be sarcastic as I am not really sure. I did try the search. For obvious reasons I really do not want to kill this light. It is of interest that a lot of 3x XPL-HI lights do not output that much. I doubt from them the claim is bogus. rather I have a feeling that the light shall be very short lived in that scenario? What would say is safe lumens for 3x219C on a single 18350? Thank you
Run Deadwood on high=dead light?
- Thread starter nitebrite
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An 18350 doesn't really have the ability to overdrive a 3x219c. Depending on your driver you will have either pretty good thermal regulation (h17f) or pretty basic thermal regulation (dragon). Either way you editor be fine to leave it on turbo and it shouldn't self destruct.
It does get too hot for me to hold with my bare hand but i am a wimp. Are you saying it does not really reach 2000 lumens? I had the Dragon replaced with the h17f. On that note, what do you think about replacing the emitters with XPL-HI? I really like those better and spec them in my bespoke lights. I know they are actually very low CRI but I do like the way they look at 6000K. Plus it should put out maybe 3000lm then? I never plan on selling it so I am not concerned of the value. I just do not want to kill it. Since my guy told me if I smoke the wires he has to charge me a lot. I am just guessing it is in fact not 2000lm? I do not think an 18350 could drive them that hard? Thanks for answering in the middle of the night.
With a freshly charged cell and on turbo mode it likely does reach 2000+ lumens. You can replace the 219c with XPL Hi without issues as the driver would not know the difference or care about the difference with the two LEDs. You likely can get 3000 lumens but under the same conditions as the 219c, freshly charged cell on turbo. In reality the difference would come down exclusively between the two the LEDs as the driver would perform the same.
You might even consider a Samsung 351D which splits the difference between light quality and light output. The Deadwood uses all off the shelf parts so you can really swap in any LED you want in the 3V class and they would work fine. Any competent modder can fix your light without much issues if it helps your decision.
You might even consider a Samsung 351D which splits the difference between light quality and light output. The Deadwood uses all off the shelf parts so you can really swap in any LED you want in the 3V class and they would work fine. Any competent modder can fix your light without much issues if it helps your decision.
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Thank you! I really appreciate your answering my questions. Yes, I have a local kid I trust to mod a expensive light. He went to MIT. Of course this is not his job, just a favor. I know his father. Anyhow I do like the XPL but will check out the 351D. That kind of upsets me. Such an expensive Flashlight is all off the shelf. I bet my Hanko is too. I will ask him. Another funny thing he told me, the h17f costs less than the Dragon! Go figure. Anyways, Thank you!
archimedes
Flashaholic
Although not really the main question of your thread, OP, I thought I would address your point above.
Many flashlight collectors would consider the design aesthetic and machining artistry to top their list of priorities, and well above details of the electronics, such as emitters and drivers.
So-called "sole authorship" or the like, is very rare in the flashlight space.
Of course, this is very different than the value of a flashlight as a tool. But tool lights do not need to be made from fancy / exotic / expensive materials or such :shrug:
