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Sold/Expired SALE: JM-PhD-D1 PWM Hotwire Regulator BATCH 2

JimmyM

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Vlow Latch: on
Vlow Dim = 1 (71%)

Thanks for the order.
However, the VLOW Latch functionality is not in the D1 firmware. My post above may not have been clear enough, but I was talking about the latch functionality in the X1 driver. I'll have to add that functionality to the D1 firmware before I ship your regulators out. I probably won't get to it until Wednesday night.
 

JimmyM

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Thanks for doing that!
Yeah. No sweat. I've changed the code, but have been traveling for work and need to do a little testing to make sure the VLow warning doesn't reset. I should be able to do that this evening. Once confirmed, I'll get you regulators shipped out asap.
 

Hoop

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Spokane, WA
That's exactly what I'm using in my next build: H7680 HIR. I will be running it at 16 volts with slow soft start. Ma_sha1's frankenmag daddy used the bulb and popped it somewhere north of 16 volts.
 

Bimmerboy

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That's exactly what I'm using in my next build: H7680 HIR. I will be running it at 16 volts with slow soft start. Ma_sha1's frankenmag daddy used the bulb and popped it somewhere north of 16 volts.
The difficult thing there is we don't know what voltage drop the NTC was giving before it was bypassed, and a whole bunch of other info.

I'll likely do a little less severe, but still screaming 15.2V (simulating 3.8V Vbatt per cell under a 6A+ load) with slow start as the bulb is only rated for 100 hours at spec, which means it's already being driven somewhat hard.

95W vs. 100W... thanks to Jimmy, we're gonna' have fun either way! :rock:
 

Hoop

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I :poof:'d the bulb @ 16 volts with slow soft start.

Was a H7680x by the way. 300 hour rated.


Edit: I should clarify that I did NOT test increasing voltage up to and arriving at 16 volts. 16 volts was the initial test and it poofed at that. It would probably be good to test at 15 volts or below at first and work your way up to find the ragged edge.
 
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Bimmerboy

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Jimmy,

OK, ready to go. Just a few questions before ordering:

I'd like to have a two level UI, but would like to have a main power switch to completely cut off the batteries while the light is shelved.

What will happen upon turning on the main switch... will it turn on the bulb at level 1, or go into standby waiting for a command from the momentary?

If it turns on instantly, will the protection and regulation instantly protect the bulb?

Is there any problem with this setup? Does the regulator prefer to have Vbatt connected at all times for any reason, or does it make no difference?



Getting very psyched to build another totally killer incan thanks to you!
 

JimmyM

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Aug 30, 2006
Messages
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Location
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I'd like to have a two level UI, but would like to have a main power switch to completely cut off the batteries while the light is shelved.

What will happen upon turning on the main switch... will it turn on the bulb at level 1, or go into standby waiting for a command from the momentary?

If it turns on instantly, will the protection and regulation instantly protect the bulb?

Is there any problem with this setup? Does the regulator prefer to have Vbatt connected at all times for any reason, or does it make no difference?

The main disconnect will have no effect on the operation of the regulator. As soon as it is powered up, it goes to sleep to wait for the momentary to operate as usual.
 

Bimmerboy

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Thanks for the info. I believe I have this sorted, and... :paypal:


Operation Mode: Multi-Level
Vbulb: 14.8V
Vlow: 16.5V
Level-1: 100%
Level-2: 88%
SoftRamp: Yes
Softstart: Slow
Low Volt Warning: Pulsing
Low volt shutdown: Both, 90 Seconds, 97%
VLOW_Latch: Enable
Over Temp trigger: 70C
Over Temp Shutdown: Yes, 20 Seconds
Response: 1/2 second

A huge, retina searing, face melting salute to you, Jimmy. :bow: :twothumbs These, and your X1's are fantastic bits of incan technology.

Thank you so much for all the fun!
 

Hoop

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I'd like to report that he 300 hour rated H7680x bulb has been working fine at 15 volts with soft slow start.
 

Bimmerboy

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In my humble opinion, this thread needs a bump.
So here it is.. :bump:
Totally agreed. This thread absolutely deserves a bump as Jimmy has not only created the best incan drivers ever, but he's made a second batch!

Think your regulated LED is hot stuff? Think again!

BTW... mine came in last Friday. Can't wait to put in the new build. Thanks again so much, Jimmy!
 

Hoop

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64447 at 19 volts is the shizzle. I believe I will build a light which beats fire foxes III in output to size ratio. And they said it couldn't be done.... Probably will have two modes, 12 volts and 19 volts.
 

Eddie-M

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Jun 21, 2010
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Hey Jimmy. I'm becoming very intersested in buying some of your drivers. I had a quick question though. I see that the maximum voltage you can run through the driver is 40.0 Volts. I'm wondering if I could use 10 18650 IMR batteries to drive an Osram 64657 at about 29 volts regulated with the extra overhead from 10 cells. I'm figuring I will have some losses in voltage due to the resistance of the batteries and flashlight body, switches ect, so even though the freshly charged pack voltage would be around 42 volts, do you think it would be fine? Do you think 12 cells (50.4 volts) would kill your driver? The other builds I am contemplating doing are an Osram 64458 driven at 20.9 volts and a philips 5761 driven at 7.6 volts no worries there, but the potential ~18,000 lumens of the Osram 64657 is the beast I would like to tame. Thanks.
 

JimmyM

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40V is the absolute MAX the driver can take. Any more will definitely cause damage. The problem is that, when the FET is off, the batteries will still apply most of their voltage. 42V will kill it. Use 9 IMRs for 37.8V or use 8 IMRs and have a little more "safety factor" at = 33.6V.
29V will draw 12.5A RMS. That's going to be pushing the regulator pretty hard. Especially with any Avalanche current caused by the hard switching at close to 40V. If you intend to try 40+ volts into it, it will fail. Sorry.
But when running at high currents (~13A), Lux Luthor's testing showed that it can sometimes shutdown due to an overtemp condition. Enclosed in a Mag body will reduce it heat tolerance. However, there are several guys using these regulators that push 10-11A with no problems at all.
 
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