Sold/Expired SALE: JM-PhD-D1 PWM Hotwire Regulator BATCH 2

[JimmyM]

I'll take 3 as follows. Jimmy, would you please provide the grand total for shipping those to Russia?
Thanks
Anton

I'll get these programmed and let you know about shipping.

Thanks.

 

[JimmyM]

I'll take 3 as follows. Jimmy, would you please provide the grand total for shipping those to Russia?
Thanks
Anton

Anton,
Your order has shipped. See your PMs for details.

 

[ma tumba]

Got the PM, James, thanks!

Anton,
Your order has shipped. See your PMs for details.

 

[Conte]

Red rover red rover,
Send a Jimmy FET over.

User will program. Assuming it doesn't require some pre programming.

 

[JimmyM]

There are programmed settings in addition to just the Vlow and Vbulb. Unless you're talking about you programming the firmware. See the top post for a listing of the options.

 

[Conte]

Yes, I have the software and the USB adapter.
I will install the firmware myself.

 

[JimmyM]

Yes, I have the software and the USB adapter.
I will install the firmware myself.

You are ON IT. So much freedom when you you can re-program yourself. I'll get your reg out ASAP. It'll come pre-programmed with default settings so I can test it before it goes out. But after that, it's all yours.

 

[JimmyM]

Yes, I have the software and the USB adapter.
I will install the firmware myself.

Conte, Your reg will ship tomorrow.

 

[JimmyM]

I've started a "giveaway" to stir up ideas.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-PWM-Regulator-Giveaway&p=4473390#post4473390

 

[Linger]

Oh sweet lumens,... the hotwire driver is back@!
(I've been gone for a while). This is phenomenal to come back and find this post. Much love for the hotwires....still rocking a WA1164 with a Willie Hunt and Skip Logal 2D-8AA, and an AW soft-start with a triple IMR26650 and a Hikari JC 6v20w.

This is awesome.
I'll order up tonight.

Linger

 

[Linger]

Will one board run two bulbs? e.g. two Hikari miracle bulbs would make a sweet illumination set for a dive camera.

 

[Conte]

Not independently.
But in parallel, should be good as long as it's less than 13 amps total.

 

[Linger]

Yes of course linked.
Thanks Conte. Nice Fulton Man. Well done.

 

[Linger]

Hey,

No time to send the specs, but money is sent.
I missed round one by monents, no-way I"m repeating that. So cash is sent, specs to come in the morning.



I'm so very happy.

 

[JimmyM]

Hey,

No time to send the specs, but money is sent.
I missed round one by monents, no-way I"m repeating that. So cash is sent, specs to come in the morning.



I'm so very happy.

Yup. Got the PayPal. Thanks.

 

[JimmyM]

I have new firmware for the JM-PhD-D1. Revision 4a. It's Linked in the top post under firmware.
Also here... Link
It allows the regulator to drive one or more WS2812 LEDs (AKA Neopixels from Adafruit). These LEDs are serial data driven RGB LEDs.
A single pin on the D1 can drive a single or multiple LEDs. The LEDs will need a separate 5V power source, but only a single pin on the D1 is used to control the whole string.
A string can be used to indicate battery voltage or temperature or time left to shutdown, etc.
A single one can be used to indicate condition (low voltage warning, over temp warning, etc).
The additional new code, if enabled, only uses 44% of the onboard 4k flash memory and 3 bytes (of 256 bytes of RAM).

 

[JimmyM]

Hey,

No time to send the specs, but money is sent.
I missed round one by monents, no-way I"m repeating that. So cash is sent, specs to come in the morning.



I'm so very happy.

Waiting on those specs. I don't want to forget you.

 

[Conte]

I have new firmware for the JM-PhD-D1. Revision 4a. It's Linked in the top post under firmware.
Also here... Link
It allows the regulator to drive one or more WS2812 LEDs (AKA Neopixels from Adafruit). These LEDs are serial data driven RGB LEDs.
A single pin on the D1 can drive a single or multiple LEDs. The LEDs will need a separate 5V power source, but only a single pin on the D1 is used to control the whole string.
A string can be used to indicate battery voltage or temperature or time left to shutdown, etc.
A single one can be used to indicate condition (low voltage warning, over temp warning, etc).
The additional new code, if enabled, only uses 44% of the onboard 4k flash memory and 3 bytes (of 256 bytes of RAM).

I see the section where you enable It, but not where you set what it does?

 

[JimmyM]

I see the section where you enable It, but not where you set what it does?

There is really a lot that these can do. It depends on the number of LEDs too.
Right now, the firmware just has the capability (using the enabled functions) to send data. What data is up to you.
I am working on a firmware, that uses a single WS2812 on Pin B1, IIRC, and a couple of different low voltage/over temp warning modes.
Yellow for Low voltage, red for over temp.
What would YOU like it to do?
I have an 8 Neopixel (WS2812) strip from Adafruit for testing. It could be a battery bar graph meter, A single one could pulse, flash, change color...
For a single pixel, the serial data send (24 bytes) is only 0.00003 seconds long, a PWM cycle is .004 seconds long. You can easily send several bytes of data between PWM cycles. At the worst, the regulator misses its sampling window and it reads the battery voltage 240 times per second instead of 244. No big deal.

 

[Conte]

The first question that comes to mind, is how would you turn it on and off.

Assuming the Phd1 just controls it, would would need a separate switch it feed it power, unless it has some sort of wicked standby mode that consumes no power when connected to the battery until it's told to do otherwise.

My first idea is to connect it to the control switch, so it only comes on when you press the button.
So, when you hold for OFF, or maybe when switching modes, the switch gives it power, it turns on, and glows whatever the phd1 is telling it.

So imagine as you're changing modes or turning it on or off, you get a quick indication of battery state. That would be cool.
Battery state is the only thing that comes to mind at first that I would want indications for.

I have yet to encounter a need for thermal shutdown.
My mags simply have not over heated. The Big Beam Litebox bulb is to far away to measure and matter.
Even in my MT-G2 buld, I have the thermal set low to 50c, and it has not overheated yet running that LED full bore for like 20 mins straight, that's pretty good actually.
Thermal is only an issue in the Fulton which cannot sustain full power of a 15watt or more bulb.

Battery on the other hand, I'm constantly checking my voltages. Half because I'm monitoring them to calibrate the shut off, and half because there is no way to tell until it's too late.

So without knowing much about the neo leds, lets assume it does Green, Yellow, and Red as the very basic.
Green would be >3.8v a cell, Yellow: 3.8-3.4v a cell, Red would be 3.4-3v a cell, shutdown would be 3v a cell which I've determined is the safest point.

If using an 8 LED strip as a gauge, all leds are Lit until 3.8v, then they start to go out each 0.1v after that until 3v.

I'm trying to visually imagine how these features would be integrated into a maglite . . . I can't picture a strip, but a single LED yes.
It would be cool if we could find clear mag switch button rubbers, then hide the LED in the tower somehow to shine thru' that switch.

I could not see myself adding an extra hole to my mags, however, for testing purposes, I have a spare hole already in my Big Beam Litebox.

Well, those are my thoughts so far. I could see a single LED power gauge being a logical first set of development.

Did you see the BBLitebox build yet ?