For those looking for a AAA/10440 light with high CRI, County Comm has the Reylight Pineapple Mini with the Nichia 219B R9080 available in a bundle for a pretty good price in both brass and copper at this moment (titanium is sold out). I just got my copper in today.
So hard to find a good high cri light nowadays
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jon_slider
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the 219B 4500k is my favorite High CRI LED, bar none
And the Reylight AAA is a great host.
Among other things I like, it has a fully captive, deep carry clip, and a tritium slot in the tail button..
Highly recommended
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tjswarbrick
Enlightened
Alright, you guys convinced me.
I've been trying to ignore all my CountyComm notifications. Also been hesitant on the 10440 since it won't work in any of my other AAA lights that it'll fit into.
I already carry a Prometheus Beta QR on my primary keychain, with Fenix or Preon AAA on alternate keychains. And Maratac AAA's in several materials scattered about.
For primary EDC I've found that I much prefer the grip, manipulation and operation of a single-CR123 light with a tail switch. And I usually just pocket it.
But 4500k is my ideal tint, 219b R9080 sounds like the perfect Hi-CRI, and at least this little guy has a click switch for one-hand operation. Deep-carry clip is sometimes a nice option.
So it'll give me one more option when I don't expect to need a light and want it to be slim; and one more point of comparison for the 219c's.
Thanks?!?
If you lure me into any more, I might as well have ordered a replacement HDS.
Copper Maratac comparisons and 119/219b/219c beamshots to follow...
I've been trying to ignore all my CountyComm notifications. Also been hesitant on the 10440 since it won't work in any of my other AAA lights that it'll fit into.
I already carry a Prometheus Beta QR on my primary keychain, with Fenix or Preon AAA on alternate keychains. And Maratac AAA's in several materials scattered about.
For primary EDC I've found that I much prefer the grip, manipulation and operation of a single-CR123 light with a tail switch. And I usually just pocket it.
But 4500k is my ideal tint, 219b R9080 sounds like the perfect Hi-CRI, and at least this little guy has a click switch for one-hand operation. Deep-carry clip is sometimes a nice option.
So it'll give me one more option when I don't expect to need a light and want it to be slim; and one more point of comparison for the 219c's.
Thanks?!?
If you lure me into any more, I might as well have ordered a replacement HDS.
Copper Maratac comparisons and 119/219b/219c beamshots to follow...
Gotta agree with the 219b 4500k high CRI. I had to have mine made to order from Vinh in a titanium Tool. Absolutely love the clicky; so convenient. Only takes 10440s though.
Also considered having my RRT-01 (2019) modded to the same but just never got around to it. Also love the rotaries.
tjswarbrick
Enlightened
RRT01 Raptor arrived early.
In preliminary investigation, I like it.
Tail switch is a little hard to press one-handed, and color leans a bit toward yellow. But mine, at least, doesn't appear any more green that the Zebralight H53Fc, which I believe has a CRI 93-95 XP-L2 emitter.
Still nothing can touch the SunDrop.
Desk is a honey Acacia wood finish.
I know my photography skills leave a bit to be desired. And the outputs aren't calibrated. But it isn't TOO far off what I see in real life.
In preliminary investigation, I like it.
Tail switch is a little hard to press one-handed, and color leans a bit toward yellow. But mine, at least, doesn't appear any more green that the Zebralight H53Fc, which I believe has a CRI 93-95 XP-L2 emitter.
Still nothing can touch the SunDrop.
Desk is a honey Acacia wood finish.
I know my photography skills leave a bit to be desired. And the outputs aren't calibrated. But it isn't TOO far off what I see in real life.
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Former_Mag_User
Enlightened
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Maglite Solitaire LED warm
I just bought two of them. They are very warm with excellent color rendition
I just bought two of them. They are very warm with excellent color rendition
jon_slider
Flashlight Enthusiast
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does anyone have a link to an actual CRI test of the Warm White LED in the Maglite Solitaire?
tjswarbrick
Enlightened
Here's the 219c EagleTac D25c Mk III which arrived today, compared to the JetBeam 219c RRT01 Raptor which arrived yesterday, the McGizmo SunDrop XR-U from 2013, and an M61LHCRI (with XR-E, if I recall) from 10 years ago.
RRT-01 is more yellow, and has so much spot it's hard to compare - and a little hard to use close-up. At least compared to the others.
Perhaps in the next round I'll try to balance out the outputs to somewhat close to each other. But the EagTac only wants to go High/Strobe for now, so I left it - and cranked up the Raptor.
RRT-01 is more yellow, and has so much spot it's hard to compare - and a little hard to use close-up. At least compared to the others.
Perhaps in the next round I'll try to balance out the outputs to somewhat close to each other. But the EagTac only wants to go High/Strobe for now, so I left it - and cranked up the Raptor.
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tjswarbrick
Enlightened
And, finally, the Maratac Reylight Pineapple 219b 4500 R9080 arrived today, as well. (It was hiding - I didn't know it had made it.) 10440 was undercharged, so this is on High with an eneloop.
Comparison: Maratac AA Cu, Maratac 123 Cu, Reylight HiCRI, RRT01 219c, D25c MKIII 219c HiCRI, and SunDrop. (Have a Maratac CU AAA, too, but the output on that one has never been very special. It's in a tool bag in the trunk right now.)
As you can see, I got lucky in the RRT01 lottery. Sure puts the two older Maratac lights to shame. Those two old CU's aren't Hi-CRI, but IIRC they were specified with Neutral White. I always felt they had decent tint and rendering, though nowhere near the SunDrop or sorely missed HDS.
Comparison: Maratac AA Cu, Maratac 123 Cu, Reylight HiCRI, RRT01 219c, D25c MKIII 219c HiCRI, and SunDrop. (Have a Maratac CU AAA, too, but the output on that one has never been very special. It's in a tool bag in the trunk right now.)
As you can see, I got lucky in the RRT01 lottery. Sure puts the two older Maratac lights to shame. Those two old CU's aren't Hi-CRI, but IIRC they were specified with Neutral White. I always felt they had decent tint and rendering, though nowhere near the SunDrop or sorely missed HDS.
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Slider is right about so many things, but especially this point. Couldn't agree more. My fav HiCRI is my HDS F89HG.
tjswarbrick
Enlightened
Probably not the right place to put this, but nobody's replied on last year's ReyLight thread:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/v...9080-high-CR&p=5451835&highlight=#post5451835
Got my 219b sw45k R9080 ReyLight Pineapple from County Comm on Saturday.
Included 10440 was only 50% SoC, so I dropped in an Eneloop.
Easy to hit the switch, and a gorgeous tint. Gorgeous copper finish, too.
Charged up the 10440. Dropped it in.
Still nothing.
Is there a trick for running Li-Ion in this guy?
It's not a button-top, and is the battery included in the package. Charger display confirms 100% State of Charge.
Is there an easy way to determine if the issue lies with the battery or with the light?
(I don't have another 10440 on hand to test.)
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/v...9080-high-CR&p=5451835&highlight=#post5451835
Got my 219b sw45k R9080 ReyLight Pineapple from County Comm on Saturday.
Included 10440 was only 50% SoC, so I dropped in an Eneloop.
Easy to hit the switch, and a gorgeous tint. Gorgeous copper finish, too.
Charged up the 10440. Dropped it in.
Still nothing.
Is there a trick for running Li-Ion in this guy?
It's not a button-top, and is the battery included in the package. Charger display confirms 100% State of Charge.
Is there an easy way to determine if the issue lies with the battery or with the light?
(I don't have another 10440 on hand to test.)
No tricks as far as I know, just put the positive end toward the head. Do you have another light you can test the 10440 in?
tjswarbrick
Enlightened
I do!
I totally spaced it.
I won this guy like 10 years ago. Carried it for about a week, until I realized it likes to turn on by itself and cook my leg...
MBI HF-RT Ti?
New CountyComm blue 10440 runs just fine in there.
Charging up the IMR to see if it'll power the ReyLight.
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tjswarbrick
Enlightened
Okay.
So, the IMR 10440 charged up quick, and runs just fine in the ReyLight.
So, basically, I'm all set but have no idea why the nameless blue 320mAh 10440 that came with the ReyLight won't run in it, even though it's just fine in the MBI.
Wierdness.
Update:
I took a few measurements (just one sample of each).
Energizer Ultimate Lithium AAA Primary: 1.740" OAL / .404" OD;
Sanyo Eneloop AAA: 1.738" OAL / .401" OD;
Efest flat-top 10440: 1.738" OAL / .403" OD;
Blue flat-top 10440 supplied with the ReyLight: 1.690" OAL / .3985" OD.
So, I think it's just a matter of the battery is too short for the light. Although it works in the MBI.
The other 3 all work in the ReyLight.
Looks like County Comm is going to take care of me, anyway.
Received replacement cell from CC. It works in the light!
So, the IMR 10440 charged up quick, and runs just fine in the ReyLight.
So, basically, I'm all set but have no idea why the nameless blue 320mAh 10440 that came with the ReyLight won't run in it, even though it's just fine in the MBI.
Wierdness.
Update:
I took a few measurements (just one sample of each).
Energizer Ultimate Lithium AAA Primary: 1.740" OAL / .404" OD;
Sanyo Eneloop AAA: 1.738" OAL / .401" OD;
Efest flat-top 10440: 1.738" OAL / .403" OD;
Blue flat-top 10440 supplied with the ReyLight: 1.690" OAL / .3985" OD.
So, I think it's just a matter of the battery is too short for the light. Although it works in the MBI.
The other 3 all work in the ReyLight.
Looks like County Comm is going to take care of me, anyway.
Received replacement cell from CC. It works in the light!
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the.Mtn.Man
Flashlight Enthusiast
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Right now it seems that the high CRI offerings at HDS are being reserved for the special run of lights (stainless steel, copper, etc.), and once those runs are finished, the remaining emitters will become generally available.
As for cost, I suppose each person has to decide what they are comfortable with spending, but with HDS, you are getting, in my opinion, the finest made flashlight available at any price with an unbeatable no-questions-asked lifetime warranty. In terms of quality, features, and customer service there is nothing better. Unfortunately, that doesn't come cheap.
tjswarbrick
Enlightened
One more shot of Hi-CRI beams.
Thrunite Ti (freebie - not Hi-CRI); ZebraLight H53Fc Neutral Hi-CRI; MBI HF-RT with Zoom head and undefined neutral emitter (looks like maybe an XM-L); ReyLight Pineapple 219b sw45k R9080; McGizmo SunDrop XR-U.
Thrunite Ti (freebie - not Hi-CRI); ZebraLight H53Fc Neutral Hi-CRI; MBI HF-RT with Zoom head and undefined neutral emitter (looks like maybe an XM-L); ReyLight Pineapple 219b sw45k R9080; McGizmo SunDrop XR-U.
AMD64Blondie
Flashlight Enthusiast
Love the tint and color rendition of my Zebralight SC700d,as well as my Manker E14 III neutral white.
The Zebralight is rated at 5000K color temp,whereas the Manker is rated at 4000K color temp.
The Zebralight is rated at 5000K color temp,whereas the Manker is rated at 4000K color temp.
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jon_slider
Flashlight Enthusiast
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- 5,174
It is not easy to recognize High CRI, as it is mostly related to Red Spectrum output, that is completely absent in Low CRI.
shining a light on the palm of my hand, helps me tell the difference, but it may not help other people who dont care as much as I do about Red Spectrum output
another way to see a difference between low and High CRI, is to shine the light on something made of wood... but again, not all photos of wood are created equal
in any case, here is my attempt to communicate the Visual effect of High CRI
daylight control shot:
the two on the left are low CRI... notice the wood looks green under them, but it is actually Not green:
of course it is only fair to say, that even the 219b color rendering is different than daylight.. No LED equals the spectrum of sunlight.. but High CRI LEDs come closer than Low CRI LEDs...
another example..
top is low cri, bottom is high cri
===
not all High CRI leds have the same amount of Red Spectrum output
Even the N219c is no match for an N219b. The 219c is certainly brighter, but its also considerably yellow/greener, as shown by the light in the middle:
The High CRI Zebras dont even come close to an N219b in terms of Red content. Look at the R9 values, the red bar:
Also look at the spectrum, can you see how much less Red the Zebra LED produces?:
shining a light on the palm of my hand, helps me tell the difference, but it may not help other people who dont care as much as I do about Red Spectrum output
another way to see a difference between low and High CRI, is to shine the light on something made of wood... but again, not all photos of wood are created equal
in any case, here is my attempt to communicate the Visual effect of High CRI
daylight control shot:
the two on the left are low CRI... notice the wood looks green under them, but it is actually Not green:
of course it is only fair to say, that even the 219b color rendering is different than daylight.. No LED equals the spectrum of sunlight.. but High CRI LEDs come closer than Low CRI LEDs...
another example..
top is low cri, bottom is high cri
===
not all High CRI leds have the same amount of Red Spectrum output
Even the N219c is no match for an N219b. The 219c is certainly brighter, but its also considerably yellow/greener, as shown by the light in the middle:
The High CRI Zebras dont even come close to an N219b in terms of Red content. Look at the R9 values, the red bar:
Also look at the spectrum, can you see how much less Red the Zebra LED produces?:
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aznsx
Flashlight Enthusiast
JS - Thanx for including the critically important daylight control shot of that wooden surface for reference.
I wonder if anyone has run those spectrum tests on the Yuji BC3030 G04 that's in the Prometheus Beta Magnetic. I am by no means a tint snob, but that Yuji is my gold standard. I was kind of surprised and honestly almost underwhelmed by the fabled R9080 when I've been spoiled by the magic of Yuji.
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