Spike Light - V3

[Lips]

Low cells was it, works fine... Using V3 everyday putting it through paces!



Ash, did you consider other clicks for operation of V3?

Is it possible to change method of operation with software at some point? (Click, Long Press, Double Click)

I have been turning the light on and off allot on a job site as tasks demand or I'm facing someone and blinding them. (Not a runner so don't set it and leave it on during a run for long periods etc). The delay to turn on and off is one thing I don't like. Not a terribly big deal but it's kind of annoying when using the light around a group of workers. On fast and off fast...

Would this method be possible through programming? Just think I would prefer this...

- Single Click -on Single Click off
- Double Click - to change from Wide Beam to Narrow Beam
- Long Press - to go into setting Wide Beam Levels
- Double Click - from Off to go into extra modes on Comp +



Also, what is the method of regulation?

I was working on a light switch with white wall and noticed some substantial flickering as in PWM. Hadn't noticed that before during couple days use but was really close to wall light switch box...


thanks

 

[ahorton]

I did consider many other click styles for the UI. This was my favourite after working with a bunch of other night-navigators for a while. Of course different applications will favour different UIs.

The 'Simple' UI is slightly closer to what you want.

The software can be changed at any time. It just needs a programming device (eg an AVRISP which are normally about $30-40). I'm happy to release the software to anyone who has the tools to program it in.


The regulation is linear. It uses seven AMC7135 chips. I like these because they're easy to use and very efficient in the voltage ranges of these cells and LEDs. They give a very nice, natural dimming as the cells empty.



Sorry about the flickering. I thought it didn't have any obvious flickering, but then I never look at anything closer than an arm's length. This may be fixable by changing the PWM, or possibly going down to a single LED. Which setting are you using for up-close work? It will be possible to set one flood LED to come on at 350mA (25%) without any PWM. I can't produce that software right now, but it is possible.

 

[Lips]

I did consider many other click styles for the UI. This was my favourite after working with a bunch of other night-navigators for a while. Of course different applications will favour different UIs.

The 'Simple' UI is slightly closer to what you want.

Too much of a flashoholic to go to the Simple UI !

The software can be changed at any time. It just needs a programming device (eg an AVRISP which are normally about $30-40). I'm happy to release the software to anyone who has the tools to program it in.

I would like to program mine. Is the software easy to use, or do you have to be a programer to understand it. (Anyone in mind that could do it if it's better suited for a programmer.


I think I want to move to this regime:

- Single Click -on Single Click off
- Double Click - to change from Wide Beam to Narrow Beam
- Long Press - to go into setting Wide Beam Levels
- Double Click - from Off to go into extra modes on Comp +

* I would also like to add a BOOST mode (2 XPG's only) under the Competition Plus area. Say 2.4 amps or so (1.2 amps per led). I assume thermal protection would work in this mode as it already does? Is this possible to do? Maybe add it as a 6th level also under the regular bright / dim levels?
I used your V3 to move a travel trailer in a pitch dark, large open field. The extra power would have been nice for short-med runs while surveying the area...



Do you have any smaller/lighter headbands or recommend any? (Don't use it for running so smaller thinner headband may work better for non-running uses...

The regulation is linear. It uses seven AMC7135 chips. I like these because they're easy to use and very efficient in the voltage ranges of these cells and LEDs. They give a very nice, natural dimming as the cells empty.

Nice, I like the way the V3 will cut back power when batteries run low and not leave you in the dark. For my uses so far I just change batteries at that point...

Sorry about the flickering. I thought it didn't have any obvious flickering, but then I never look at anything closer than an arm's length. This may be fixable by changing the PWM, or possibly going down to a single LED. Which setting are you using for up-close work? It will be possible to set one flood LED to come on at 350mA (25%) without any PWM. I can't produce that software right now, but it is possible.

I've tried to see the flickering after I changed the batteries and can't see it anymore. Only noticed it once working on the light switch box in pic below. Close and white. I never noticed it any other time after many hours of use. I've tried it in the same spot and don't see any flicker now. May have been low batteries or I was tired and my eyes were playing tricks...



Been using the V3 as a work light on job site for hours everyday. Must say I love it and glad I have a headlight that is a joy to use. The old princeton tec apex has been relegated to a loaner/backup! The Zebralight I have it AA only and not enough a$$. Having a nice smooth flood with some power & battery to back it up is wonderful. I'll be upgrading to V4 (magnetic infinite rotating dimmer )for sure!

 

[ahorton]

I'm glad the flickering hasn't turned out to be a problem. Maybe something was interfering in a funny and hard-to-predict way but it went away when it lost power.

As for your other requests:

To change the software requires a tool like an AVRISPII. I bought mine for $35 and it's nice. You can get them cheaper. I think it only costs about $10 to make one from scratch. You also need an internet connection and the patience to follow instructions for about 15 minutes. After that it takes 30 seconds every time you want to update your Spikelight V3 software.


At the moment I can offer the 3 standard UIs, and eventually I want to offer heaps more as well as the tools to easily make your own.

If you know how to program microcontrollers, then I'll give you all the info you need to write your own code. I started to learn how to program them myself, but I haven't got far enough to make good and stable UIs. So I actually paid someone to write the standard UIs but then he made the software closed so that I can't learn how he did it.

Once I get a working piece of software then I'll publish it, open source, and everyone will be able to design their own UIs easily.

Unfortunately I'm too busy at the moment so I won't be able to do it for at least 6 months. If anyone else wants to write it then they would be very welcome!


As for changing the current level to the XP-Gs, I'm sorry that the max level is 700mA each. More can be achieved by adding more AMC7135 chips, but my guess is that it would be so hard and dangerous that nobody will ever want to.

 

[Lips]

I'm glad the flickering hasn't turned out to be a problem. Maybe something was interfering in a funny and hard-to-predict way but it went away when it lost power.

As for your other requests:

To change the software requires a tool like an AVRISPII. I bought mine for $35 and it's nice. You can get them cheaper. I think it only costs about $10 to make one from scratch. You also need an internet connection and the patience to follow instructions for about 15 minutes. After that it takes 30 seconds every time you want to update your Spikelight V3 software.


At the moment I can offer the 3 standard UIs, and eventually I want to offer heaps more as well as the tools to easily make your own.

If you know how to program microcontrollers, then I'll give you all the info you need to write your own code. I started to learn how to program them myself, but I haven't got far enough to make good and stable UIs. So I actually paid someone to write the standard UIs but then he made the software closed so that I can't learn how he did it.

Once I get a working piece of software then I'll publish it, open source, and everyone will be able to design their own UIs easily.

Unfortunately I'm too busy at the moment so I won't be able to do it for at least 6 months. If anyone else wants to write it then they would be very welcome!


As for changing the current level to the XP-Gs, I'm sorry that the max level is 700mA each. More can be achieved by adding more AMC7135 chips, but my guess is that it would be so hard and dangerous that nobody will ever want to.

Perhaps adding an additional LED for more power in next version? Don't forget the variable brightness knob!


You mind if I put out a feeler on CPF for a programmer for the V3. I'll donate a light or something for them... (open source required, etc)

 

[ahorton]

You are welcome to find a programmer.

I'll supply all the circuit files when needed.

 

[whosywhat]

Youtube video.



Video is unlisted.

I have the exact same behavior in mine except that for me, it was intermittent. The first time it happened was while running on a dark trail. Eventually, I gave it a few whacks with my knuckle to the side of the light head. That worked for the rest of that run, but the problem came back the next day. I can usually get it working with this percussive therapy technique, but Ash is sending me a replacement.

 

[dive!dive!]

Spike Light - V3 - anyone in the UK have one ?

Hi
Anyone in the UK have one of these beasts? I'm interested, but would love to look at one first. I work in Derby during the week, live mid Somerset at the weekends.
Cheers
Steve

 

[Bullzeyebill]

Re: Spike Light - V3 - anyone in the UK have one ?

dive!dive!, feel free to start your own WTB thread over at the Market Place, CPFMP. Welcome to CPF.

Bill

 

[martingary1803]

hello ,
welcome to you on this forum site.
I am crazy about desert riding.its very interesting to ride in desert.Please suggest me for head light for my bike. how should be light in such case. I need perfect focus light.
thanks
----------------------------------
2013 MERCEDES BENZ SL-CLASS

 

[Lips]

Ash

Been using this bad boy every day since I got it remodeling a house from top to bottom. Got to have a pound of sheet rock dust on it or in it! Been loving it. Rehabing cabinets and puttying holes is allot easier when you can see! Normally I probably would have went months without turning it on. I use level 4 most of the time. Please keep updating this headlamp for future versions! More Output when you need it, Faster Interface, Infinite Adjustable etc. It's a winner...

 

[Edwood]

My replacement Spike Light V3 head arrived today finally. Works great. The color tint is great. Even my wife was pleased with the color tint, and she usually doesn't say anything about light color tints, unless they are way off.

The flood is simply awesome.

The main critique I would have is the main forehead light mount it somewhat uncomfortable on the forehead when worn for a long time for me. I'm thinking a small neoprene pad might help. I put the neoprene pad from my Surefire Saint Minimus under the forehead light mount, and it helped, but the neoprene pad is too small.

 

[ahorton]

I'm glad you're enjoying it Lips, and I'm glad that Ed's has arrived too.

I struggled to choose the colour tint, but I'm pretty happy with it in the end.

It's a pity that people often ask me "How many lumens?", but nobody ever asks about the beam smoothness, artifacts, or colour temp.

My earlier versions had a self-adhesive neoprene pad to make the (small, flat, rigid, aluminium) bracket more comfortable. I thought that the new (bigger, curved, flexible, plastic) bracket was so comfortable that it didn't need it. Sadly I don't think that my neoprene will stick well to the plastic but I can give it a shot.

One of the long-term (years of heavy use in water and mud) issues with the neoprene was that it fell apart and left a gunky, gluey mess and an uncomfortable aluminium bracket. I had hoped that the new plastic bracket wouldn't suffer from that issue.

Maybe that can be the next upgrade? I could make a silicone cover that clips over the four corners bracket. It will be quite soft but won't breathe very well. I rather like the breathing hole and the cloth elastic to keep my forehead dry.

I'll do some experimenting sometime.

 

[Edwood]

Yeah, the flood is very smooth, and a nice gradual fall off, only a little bit of artifacts on the top edge, probably due to the aspheric lens. The aspheric is typical ringy edges, but is pretty nicely focused. Only my Lens light mini focuses tighter.

The plastic bracket is not curved enough. I can feel the pressure point in the center of the bracket on my forehead. Maybe it's different for others. This HeadLamp is very lightweight for a 2x 18650, so it's not as big a deal compared to other headlamps pressing on the forehead.

For extended use, I'd wear a baseball hat underneath, so it's more comfortable that way.

Overall, I wanted a headlamp with really wide and even flood and an option for long throw, along with long runtimes, in the smallest and lightest package. That's why I opted for your excellent Spike Light V3. I have plenty of wow lights, that burn through all the power in 20 minutes or less. Sure they are way brighter, but I wanted something that would be usable for long runtime usage out and about, and crawling underneath things when servicing or fixing things.

 

[Edwood]

I managed to get find my small sized allen wrench set and was able to open the old non-working one and check continuity on the switch. It's indeed closed without a magnet near it. Continuity gives the positive Beeeeeeeeeeep.

Also, I swapped the buttons between the two since the new one did not have as smooth an action as the old one, but something weird happened.

The light was turning on and off randomly, and then would even not turn on at all, like the old light, where it would turn on for a Second, then shut off.

I swapped the buttons back and after a few button presses it was back to normal (turns out it was a bent spring, which I fixed).

So something is wrong with the button in the old one too perhaps?

-Ed

 

[ahorton]

The buttons are actually carefully matched to each headlight. So it's very rare that you can swap buttons between headlights. In fact, they are also oriented. So if you take it out and spin the button 180 degrees before putting it back in, then it may not work anymore. Or rather it will give very strange results as you've experienced.

The reason I do this, is that I try to use the smallest possible magnet so that it never interferes with a compass.

As for the smoothness of the button, you can usually adjust it by turning the set screw 1/8-1/4 turn. Sometimes they get a bit of grit in there too and that can take a few clicks to work its way out.


Be very careful checking the connectivity of the circuit. You don't want to put a small voltage somewhere it doesn't belong. In fact the two sides of the switch are always connected via the microcontroller. Connectivity testers put a small current through the circuit and can easily and instantly destroy the microcontroller. The circuit is well protected against reverse voltages from the input side, but it doesn't stand a chance against voltage sources that randomly appear within the circuit.

Now that you have a new one, just send the bad one back to me so that I can dismantle it fully.

 

[beast1210]

On the competiition ui + extras, what the does the battery indicator & everything 100% do, how does it operate? Do I have to do any exchange for US into AUS currency on your site ?

 

[ahorton]

The battery indicator is just a single LED that flashes 1-5 times to tell you how much charge ia left in the battery. 1 flash is almost flat. 4 or 5 is full.

The 'everything 100%' is all three LEDs at 100% power level. It is the brightest mode, but it's not very useful. I just include because some people want it.

My paypal shop will handle the currency conversion.

 

[Edwood]

Ah, that explains the weirdness of the button swap.

I'll drop it in the mail when I have the chance later this week. I've been hammered with work, ugh.

 

[dragon191]

How well would this light work in extreme cold temps?

I'm looking for a multi purpose light to use on a mountaineering trip later this year. Summit day can involve climbing for 6-8 hours in the dark with temps down to -30F.

The specs for the current 3400mAH panasonic's say usable down to -20 and at these temps the headlamp would be under an expedition down jacket and hood so I can't see the batteries getting this cold.

How do you think the light would perform in these conditions? Would it be possible to make a remote battery case?

I also do a lot of mountain biking and with the days getting shorter in AUS I am starting to think about a headlamp for this as well. Is it possible to mount the headlamp on a mountain bike helmet or wear it under a helmet?