Spike Light - V3

[Edwood]

My earlier versions had a self-adhesive neoprene pad to make the (small, flat, rigid, aluminium) bracket more comfortable. I thought that the new (bigger, curved, flexible, plastic) bracket was so comfortable that it didn't need it. Sadly I don't think that my neoprene will stick well to the plastic but I can give it a shot.

One of the long-term (years of heavy use in water and mud) issues with the neoprene was that it fell apart and left a gunky, gluey mess and an uncomfortable aluminium bracket. I had hoped that the new plastic bracket wouldn't suffer from that issue.

Maybe that can be the next upgrade? I could make a silicone cover that clips over the four corners bracket. It will be quite soft but won't breathe very well. I rather like the breathing hole and the cloth elastic to keep my forehead dry.

I'll do some experimenting sometime.

I like Surefire's solution, which is a removable neoprene pad with velcro hook and loop to attach and remove/replace when needed. Except, they put the hook part on the plastic bracket, so it's quite irritating to use without the neoprene pad. They should've put the loop side on the plastic bracket.

 

[Lurveleven]

I have a 7 year old Stenlight that I use every day, so I think I can justify getting a new headlamp now
I really like that you can program this yourself, so it will be fun to get it just to program it. I have worked as a C++ programmer for the last 15 years, and also had schooling in electronics a long time ago. However, I haven't done any embedded programming to speak of before, hopefully it will not take to long time to get into it.
A couple of questions:
- Do you have a blue one with blue button available that I can order?
- Can you include an allen key so I can open it?
- Will the original UIs be available so I can revert to them between messing it up with my own UI experiments?
- There is an ISP contact to connect the AVR to inside the light that is easily accessible?
- I should use AVR Studio to do the programming and to upload original UIs?
- Will the battery holder fit any 18650 button top batteries, even the fattest 3400 mAh cells?

 

[Lips]

I really like that you can program this yourself, so it will be fun to get it just to program it. I have worked as a C++ programmer for the last 15 years, and also had schooling in electronics a long time ago. However, I haven't done any embedded programming to speak of before, hopefully it will not take to long time to get into it.
A couple of questions:
- Do you have a blue one with blue button available that I can order?

Good news, experienced programmer with Spike!


Lurv, what do you use the Sten Light for daily?



_________________---------------------------

Neutral Flood
The flood beam comes from two XP-Gs in Neutral R4. For some people, this will seem silly knowing that there are R5s and S2s available, but it's a much happier and warmer glow. It really makes a difference at 3am when you are cold, tired and depressed.

The spot has stayed cool.


As compared to a zebralight neutral white the Spike is quite a bit cooler in color temp on the Xpg's. For close up work that I've been doing a little warmer tint may be better for contrast. Just sharing an observation!

 

[ahorton]

Ah, that explains the weirdness of the button swap.

I'll drop it in the mail when I have the chance later this week. I've been hammered with work, ugh.

Thanks for that. No particular hurry.

A couple of questions:
- Do you have a blue one with blue button available that I can order?

Not right now. Two weeks ago I made a batch of ten and I've just sold the last one. So I'll start making a new batch soon. I can easily make up a Blue one in that batch for you. It'll take 2-4 weeks to make the batch.

- Can you include an allen key so I can open it?

Yes

- Will the original UIs be available so I can revert to them between messing it up with my own UI experiments?

Yes

- There is an ISP contact to connect the AVR to inside the light that is easily accessible?

Yes. I'll include a few connectors for you to hook up to your cable. I'll also give you a pin diagram and circuit schematic so that you don't need to work it out.

- I should use AVR Studio to do the programming and to upload original UIs?

I use AVR Studio and it works for me. There are heaps of other options but I'm not familiar with them.

- Will the battery holder fit any 18650 button top batteries, even the fattest 3400 mAh cells?

I haven't tried the fattest 3400mAh cells. There's slightly more than 19mm for each cell, so if they're 19.2mm or bigger then you might struggle.
I'll get some to test myself. If it is a problem, then I'll make sure that the free upgraded battery case (coming later this year I hope) will fit them.


I can also point you to some notes and examples of a very similar application (attiny uC, flashlight use, AMC7135 with PWM dimming). I think that it'll contain all you need, I just haven't worked through it myself yet. As you know, reading someone else's code is a non-trivial exercise even with good documentation.

As compared to a zebralight neutral white the Spike is quite a bit cooler in color temp on the Xpg's. For close up work that I've been doing a little warmer tint may be better for contrast. Just sharing an observation!

Yes I played around with the warm and neutral for a while. The warm is definitely better for up-close work. The surgeon light I made was a very warm tint because that's what he wanted. Running over rocks and around trees, I found it annoyingly red/yellow. I preferred the slightly cooler neutral for outdoor use.

It's a personal preference thing I think.

 

[Edwood]

I think you picked a great color tint for the flood XPG's, Ash.

It's much closer to High CRI than warm white. So it's much more of a pleasant "white" than a fake tungsten warm color, which can often get too yellow looking.

 

[Lurveleven]

Lurv, what do you use the Sten Light for daily?

Walking the dog

After I got married and we got a daughter with a disability, I don't get much out of the house as I used to. Hopefully some new lights will make me more motivated to do some hiking late at night.

Previously I also have used it for skiing, but even though I love the floody beam (I have the JSB reflectors), I wish there was a spot (you cannot use an additional flashlight when skiing as you can do when hiking).

As compared to a zebralight neutral white the Spike is quite a bit cooler in color temp on the Xpg's. For close up work that I've been doing a little warmer tint may be better for contrast. Just sharing an observation!

I tested a Zebralight SC51Fw I was giving away as a gift, and found it too warm for my taste, on the other hand the Malkoff Hound Dog XM-L2 T6 5000K I just got is my new favorite tint. Unless it is crazy bright, warm LEDs feels just as unnatural to me as cold LEDs. What CCT does the flood on the Spike have?

 

[Lurveleven]

Thanks for that. No particular hurry.
Not right now. Two weeks ago I made a batch of ten and I've just sold the last one. So I'll start making a new batch soon. I can easily make up a Blue one in that batch for you. It'll take 2-4 weeks to make the batch.

That is fine, I'm in no hurry.

Yes. I'll include a few connectors for you to hook up to your cable. I'll also give you a pin diagram and circuit schematic so that you don't need to work it out.

Excellent! I will leave my CPF ID when I order the light.

I haven't tried the fattest 3400mAh cells. There's slightly more than 19mm for each cell, so if they're 19.2mm or bigger then you might struggle.
I'll get some to test myself. If it is a problem, then I'll make sure that the free upgraded battery case (coming later this year I hope) will fit them.

I'm quite sure you will not find cells fatter than 19 mm, and I doubt there ever will be, so I don't think you will have to test.

I can also point you to some notes and examples of a very similar application (attiny uC, flashlight use, AMC7135 with PWM dimming). I think that it'll contain all you need, I just haven't worked through it myself yet. As you know, reading someone else's code is a non-trivial exercise even with good documentation.

I would appreciate that, it is always good to have something to look at to get you started.

 

[beast1210]

The battery indicator is just a single LED that flashes 1-5 times to tell you how much charge ia left in the battery. 1 flash is almost flat. 4 or 5 is full.

The 'everything 100%' is all three LEDs at 100% power level. It is the brightest mode, but it's not very useful. I just include because some people want it.

My paypal shop will handle the currency conversion.

Last question, I promise Does the aluminum housing block enough RF to not turn on with radio's being keyed up near it. Very annoying for SAR/wild fire use, thanks

 

[ahorton]

Ask as many questions as you want. Just don't ask where I keep the bodies.

I haven't done any deliberate testing with radios, but they've never given me any trouble when I've used them.

Do you have any hard numbers about the strength of the fields they produce?

The aluminium housing won't shield much, but the switch picks up an extremely localised field. I need to bring the magnet within 2-4mm for the switch to pick it up.

 

[uk_caver]

I suppose much sensitivity can come down to switch input leads - are there paths meaningful voltages can be induced in, what impedances are there (what size pullup resistors, are there any capacitors across switch input pins, etc).

 

[ahorton]

I suppose much sensitivity can come down to switch input leads - are there paths meaningful voltages can be induced in, what impedances are there (what size pullup resistors, are there any capacitors across switch input pins, etc).

I'm a bit out of my depth here. EE101 was a long time ago for me and I went on to do Mechanical Engineering instead.

I don't think that meaningful voltages can be induced in the switch lines. They are reasonably short and the switch pulls a pin to ground. In the software, it ignores any input that is too short to have been a real button press.

The input does have a capacitor across it.

 

[dragon191]

Hi ahorton,

It looks like my post might have been lost in all the chatter last week. When you get a chance would you be able to comment on my questions about cold weather performance in post #280.

 

[Lips]

Walking the dog

After I got married and we got a daughter with a disability, I don't get much out of the house as I used to. Hopefully some new lights will make me more motivated to do some hiking late at night.

Previously I also have used it for skiing, but even though I love the floody beam (I have the JSB reflectors), I wish there was a spot (you cannot use an additional flashlight when skiing as you can do when hiking).



I tested a Zebralight SC51Fw I was giving away as a gift, and found it too warm for my taste, on the other hand the Malkoff Hound Dog XM-L2 T6 5000K I just got is my new favorite tint. Unless it is crazy bright, warm LEDs feels just as unnatural to me as cold LEDs. What CCT does the flood on the Spike have?

My guess is the Spike is around 5000k. I'll try and shoot a pick of the Zebra neutral white vs the Spike.


Ash you know the actual color temp of the 2 x xpg's?

 

[Edwood]

Is there some kind of lock out, because now my Spike Light won't stay on no matter what. Long press, double press, removing batteries. It just turns on two floods for one second and then off.

 

[Edwood]

I think I figured it out. The cause seems to be tightening the set screw for the button. I guess it effects the magnetics? I don't know it's so freaking picky. If I wiggle the set screw, the light turns on and off. I had to "reset" the light by using a stronger magnet to turn it on and off. I think the button needs a stronger magnet, it's really finicky on mine. The set screw is quite loose. I suppose I could locktite it at the sweet spot, but I think I'd rather have a button with a slightly stronger magnet than such a finicky one.

 

[ahorton]

Hi ahorton,

It looks like my post might have been lost in all the chatter last week. When you get a chance would you be able to comment on my questions about cold weather performance in post #280.

Sorry Dragon,

I haven't done any real cold weather testing. I'm not even sure what to look for.

The lighthead body has several components which are all 7075 aluminium so I expect them to expand and contract at a similar rate. I'm not sure if anything happens to a BK7 lens at cold temperatures, but I wouldn't want to heat it up quickly. The silicone grease I use will just get a little thicker but it'll still work fine.

I can certainly make a remote battery case with a longer cable or add a plug for different length options.

I have made bike mounts, but they're not great. The V3 works best on the head. There are much better bar-lights out there for 1/5 the price.

My guess is the Spike is around 5000k. I'll try and shoot a pick of the Zebra neutral white vs the Spike.


Ash you know the actual color temp of the 2 x xpg's?

They're supposed to be 4500K-4750K, but sometimes I wonder. There's a definite range between them but I can only identify it when they are next to each other. I would not be surprised if some are as high as 5000K. In any case, I like how they've turned out even if there is a range.

Is there some kind of lock out, because now my Spike Light won't stay on no matter what. Long press, double press, removing batteries. It just turns on two floods for one second and then off.

Yes there is a lockout. Double-click to get out of it. Or just take the cells out.

I think I figured it out. The cause seems to be tightening the set screw for the button. I guess it effects the magnetics? I don't know it's so freaking picky. If I wiggle the set screw, the light turns on and off. I had to "reset" the light by using a stronger magnet to turn it on and off. I think the button needs a stronger magnet, it's really finicky on mine. The set screw is quite loose. I suppose I could locktite it at the sweet spot, but I think I'd rather have a button with a slightly stronger magnet than such a finicky one.

Is it possible that it got turned around when you took it out? The button is designed to work one way and it will be irregular if it is spun 180 degrees.

The set screw had the tiniest (very, very tiny) drop of weak glue on it to start with. I advise putting a new drop on just to hold it in place against vibrations. The set screw should not affect the operation of the button. It just holds it in the lighthead.

 

[Lips]

Ash


Can you point out how to set the Lock Out so the headlamp won't accidentally turn on. For like carrying the V3 in a backpack etc. I've searched for it and can't find it (shows up in google search but...)

thanks

 

[Lurveleven]

You will have to have Competition UI + Extras setup to be able to lock out. From off, double click to enter extra mode, double click again from the extra mode to go into lock mode.
The user interface is described here: http://spikelights.wordpress.com/2012/03/01/user-interfaces/#more-96

 

[ahorton]

Thanks Lurveleven. I must get you that documentation soon, so you can start playing with the software.

Also, I have a newer page with info about the User Interfaces: http://spikelights.com.au/v/user-interfaces-2/
It's still a work in progress. Websites and documentation don't excite me much, but they are important.

 

[Lurveleven]

Does the switch need software debouncing?