Suggestions on how to improve Armytek Flashlights:
- Thread starter mdocod
- Start date
Help Support Candle Power Flashlight Forum
Woods Walker
The Wood is cut, The Bacon is cooked, Now it’s tim
I know it was the switch as exchanging the switches between the two lights exposed the issue. I returned the light to the retailer asking for an exchange but got a refund instead. So there goes the Viking. Last night almost pulled the trigger on a ArmyTek headlamp but my issues with these two lights and other factors made me reconsider. Personally I am a mostly performance kinda person. White lettering isn't even really noticed but I totally understand that aspect of gear ownership. Some people have reported getting lights without any instructions if I read their posts correctly. The programming instructions weren't really included with the 2.5 Pro. Also the order of UI with the standard predator is listed totally backwards. Took me a bit of time to work that out. LOL! These are easy to fix issues. I think removing the programming is an attempt to clean up UI bugs as well and reduce user errors and misunderstandings. Reliability and durability must take center stage IMHO or this brand will just be another Nitecore (no offense towards those who like that brand).
Woods Walker
The Wood is cut, The Bacon is cooked, Now it’s tim
No the Viking Pro. In an enclosed canopy and bushwhacking situation many flashlight beams look the same even those with greater flood.
I sleep out all the time so yea get used to the night. It's not so bad and during some weather conditions it's better IMHO. For most of my dark woods activities I use a headlamp but find the need occasionally for a throw light. That's why I am here right now.
desmobob
Enlightened
I have a Tiara Pro C1, a Wizard Pro, a Viking Pro 2.5 and a Predator Pro 2.5 and all function and perform as expected (or better). I do wish the programming instructions for the Predator/Viking 2.5 Pros was a bit more user-friendly. I bought both of those lights for the programming feature but it seems so daunting, I haven't got around to attempting it yet!
Take it easy,
Bob
Take it easy,
Bob
ArmyTek
Enlightened
Thank you for the pics, guys! Awesome
ArmyTek
Enlightened
Thank you, Bob! I remember that you have almost a full line of our flashlights.
Ask any question you are interested in.
ArmyTek
Enlightened
Share your opinion with us!
In conditions of good air-cooling the flashlight usually doesn't heat up to critical temperature and the brightness remains constant for the whole operation time. But with ambient temperature of about 25-30°C the flashlight delivers light in Maximum mode for about 6-10 minutes and then the brightness steps down for similar period of time. After cooling-down (provided that battery voltage is sufficient) the brightness increases to the Maximum mode again. This stepping goes cyclically to maintain the user's safety and the flashlight's functionality.
Some of our clients don't like this cyclic steppings, that's why we decided to discuss it with you also.
We can't avoid heating up in a compact flashlight of such brightness. We could make a timer for stepping down in order to avoid overheating but that's not what we want to offer our clients and doesn't corresponds to our policy in flashlights' production at all.
Using real-time temperature measurements we are able to offer you constant brightness at High modes and we see advantages in it:
- if you use the light underwater, on a bike etc. where it will not heat up critically you get constant brightness without steppings down
- after stepping down the brightness rises to the Max brightness again
At the other hand, we also understand that some people would prefer if the brightness will step down once or decrease gradually rather than experience these "falls & rises" of brightness. But if we refuse of it and add timer or discard full stabilization the flashlight will deliver Max output only for a short period of time (3-minute timers are usually chosen by Chinese manufacturers - we don't want to be like them=)). And we want our Pro lights to have full stabilization in all modes including Maximum.
So we want to hear your opinions and suggestions – what would you prefer to see in the lights and maybe what other variants you can suggest. Our main intention is to provide both safety for user & flashlight and quality bright constant light.
This information will be helpful not only for reconsideration of Wizard Pro driver, but also for all 18650-operated models with high light outputs.
Looking forward to hear all you opinions & suggestions!
!!! WE NEED YOUR OPINION !!!
Dear friends! We want to know your point of view on one issue.
Now we are gathering the feedback to decide what shall we (or shall not) improve in the temperature indication of our lights.
As many of you know at the moment we have a real-time active temperature detector in Wizard Pro. And when the temperature reaches critical level the brightness of the flashlight decreases till the flashlight cools down and then output rises again.Dear friends! We want to know your point of view on one issue.
Now we are gathering the feedback to decide what shall we (or shall not) improve in the temperature indication of our lights.
In conditions of good air-cooling the flashlight usually doesn't heat up to critical temperature and the brightness remains constant for the whole operation time. But with ambient temperature of about 25-30°C the flashlight delivers light in Maximum mode for about 6-10 minutes and then the brightness steps down for similar period of time. After cooling-down (provided that battery voltage is sufficient) the brightness increases to the Maximum mode again. This stepping goes cyclically to maintain the user's safety and the flashlight's functionality.
Some of our clients don't like this cyclic steppings, that's why we decided to discuss it with you also.
We can't avoid heating up in a compact flashlight of such brightness. We could make a timer for stepping down in order to avoid overheating but that's not what we want to offer our clients and doesn't corresponds to our policy in flashlights' production at all.
Using real-time temperature measurements we are able to offer you constant brightness at High modes and we see advantages in it:
- if you use the light underwater, on a bike etc. where it will not heat up critically you get constant brightness without steppings down
- after stepping down the brightness rises to the Max brightness again
At the other hand, we also understand that some people would prefer if the brightness will step down once or decrease gradually rather than experience these "falls & rises" of brightness. But if we refuse of it and add timer or discard full stabilization the flashlight will deliver Max output only for a short period of time (3-minute timers are usually chosen by Chinese manufacturers - we don't want to be like them=)). And we want our Pro lights to have full stabilization in all modes including Maximum.
So we want to hear your opinions and suggestions – what would you prefer to see in the lights and maybe what other variants you can suggest. Our main intention is to provide both safety for user & flashlight and quality bright constant light.
This information will be helpful not only for reconsideration of Wizard Pro driver, but also for all 18650-operated models with high light outputs.
Looking forward to hear all you opinions & suggestions!
WarRaven
Flashlight Enthusiast
Re: Share your opinion with us!
Hello, in my opinion, keep the temperature step down.
It's a winner by technology capabilities and for equipment endurance\longevity.
Thank you, have a great day.
Hello, in my opinion, keep the temperature step down.
It's a winner by technology capabilities and for equipment endurance\longevity.
Thank you, have a great day.
FlashlightR
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2015
- Messages
- 93
Share your opinion with us!
Hi, maybee you could use a PID controller technique like Zebralight does? It works very good.
And an advice: perform good tests before release the light on the market.... I had three faulty units of both the normal and the pro version (v1.5 and v2). Just my opinion. Have a good day!
Hi, maybee you could use a PID controller technique like Zebralight does? It works very good.
And an advice: perform good tests before release the light on the market.... I had three faulty units of both the normal and the pro version (v1.5 and v2). Just my opinion. Have a good day!
Last edited:
WalkIntoTheLight
Flashlight Enthusiast
Re: Share your opinion with us!
If you use a step-down from maximum to the next level down, I'd rather the light just stay in that lower mode, rather than stepping up again to max when the temperature drops. Jumping up and down is annoying.
If you implement finer control (like Zebralight's PID, as mentioned), then it's good to ramp down and up gradually, as temperature permits. So in that case, keep output at the brightest permitted.
If you use a step-down from maximum to the next level down, I'd rather the light just stay in that lower mode, rather than stepping up again to max when the temperature drops. Jumping up and down is annoying.
If you implement finer control (like Zebralight's PID, as mentioned), then it's good to ramp down and up gradually, as temperature permits. So in that case, keep output at the brightest permitted.
Re: Share your opinion with us!
I second the gradual ramp down and up. Ramping doesn't have to be continuous. It can be in discrete steps, but the steps have to be small enough to be not noticeable.
OR consider lowering the max output to somewhere around 500-600 OTF and in doing so PERHAPS eliminate the need for temperature management.
I second the gradual ramp down and up. Ramping doesn't have to be continuous. It can be in discrete steps, but the steps have to be small enough to be not noticeable.
OR consider lowering the max output to somewhere around 500-600 OTF and in doing so PERHAPS eliminate the need for temperature management.
Re: Share your opinion with us!
I'd like to see part commonality and a chart of which part fit which. I've bought a few of you light; Dobermann, Viking and the Predator. While the part on the Viking and Predator can interchange the Dobermann stands alone. I've got 2 pressure switches and the Dobermann is out with a different thread. Additional parts like 2-18650 body tubes for extended run times.
I'd like to see part commonality and a chart of which part fit which. I've bought a few of you light; Dobermann, Viking and the Predator. While the part on the Viking and Predator can interchange the Dobermann stands alone. I've got 2 pressure switches and the Dobermann is out with a different thread. Additional parts like 2-18650 body tubes for extended run times.
Woods Walker
The Wood is cut, The Bacon is cooked, Now it’s tim
Re: Share your opinion with us!
Whatever you do just make sure it works as intended. That's what is important.
Whatever you do just make sure it works as intended. That's what is important.
viciousLUX
Newly Enlightened
Re: Share your opinion with us!
Please NO timer stepdowns.. I hate that! I don't have any experience about your active thermal managment but that sounds good to me..
I want my flashlight stays hi when I use it in places where light can cool down itself... Like in the woods at cold winter night or heavy rain etc. Which are places I need all light I can get.. And if I have to turn light off and on to get full brightness because it stepped down even it doesn't have to.. It's annoying.
Please NO timer stepdowns.. I hate that! I don't have any experience about your active thermal managment but that sounds good to me..
I want my flashlight stays hi when I use it in places where light can cool down itself... Like in the woods at cold winter night or heavy rain etc. Which are places I need all light I can get.. And if I have to turn light off and on to get full brightness because it stepped down even it doesn't have to.. It's annoying.
SkinnyCow
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Jun 20, 2014
- Messages
- 27
Re: Share your opinion with us!
No step down period! If the light states constant brightness in all modes then it must stay at max until the battery is low. No step down or flashing. Why pushing for high lumens then implement step down then up? The only thing that makes armytek differ from other Chinese lights is the constant brightness on all modes until the battery is really low. I would not mind if your light is 700-800 lumens on MAX and stay that way till the end.
No step down period! If the light states constant brightness in all modes then it must stay at max until the battery is low. No step down or flashing. Why pushing for high lumens then implement step down then up? The only thing that makes armytek differ from other Chinese lights is the constant brightness on all modes until the battery is really low. I would not mind if your light is 700-800 lumens on MAX and stay that way till the end.
Lumencrazy
Enlightened
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2015
- Messages
- 369
Re: Share your opinion with us!
High temperatures will!!! damage the led. Flashlights are somewhat limited in their ability to dissipate heat. If you check Cree's spec sheets, you will see that we are asking (demanding with our credit cards) that manufacturers make brighter and brighter flashlights. In many cases they are pushing the limits of temperature beyond the design recommendations. If something goes wrong we will blame them in return.
High temperatures will!!! damage the led. Flashlights are somewhat limited in their ability to dissipate heat. If you check Cree's spec sheets, you will see that we are asking (demanding with our credit cards) that manufacturers make brighter and brighter flashlights. In many cases they are pushing the limits of temperature beyond the design recommendations. If something goes wrong we will blame them in return.
kj2
Flashaholic
Re: Share your opinion with us!
Back on topic. I'm fine with a step-down, but if it's done in small steps that would be awesome. Not a big drop, but small steps during several seconds/minutes. That way it's hardly noticeable, and the light can cool down.
And where are AT lights made..
Back on topic. I'm fine with a step-down, but if it's done in small steps that would be awesome. Not a big drop, but small steps during several seconds/minutes. That way it's hardly noticeable, and the light can cool down.
ArmyTek
Enlightened
Re: Share your opinion with us!
The full chart of parts' compatibility will be available later when we finish the production of Partner v3 & Prime v2 (customized with XP-L LEDs). After that we also plan to put some parts on sale separately to enable our customers to combine different bodies with their favourite flashlights.
At the moment I can give you some basic information on Tactical lights you're asking about:
- All older versions of tactical lights (v2 / v2.5 etc.) as well as Barracuda & Partner v1 have the threads different from those in the latest versions and models (v3, Barracuda & Partner v2, Dobermann). That's why the remote switch for Predator v2.5 doesn't match with Dobermann.
- New Predator v3, Viking v3, Barracuda v2, Dobermann & Partner v2 models have the same threads and can be used with the same remote switch (v2).
- If your're going to combine the flashlight's head with a different body please take into account the minimal & maximal voltage the model can maintain (the voltage is usually written at the head or body of the flashlight.
The full chart of parts' compatibility will be available later when we finish the production of Partner v3 & Prime v2 (customized with XP-L LEDs). After that we also plan to put some parts on sale separately to enable our customers to combine different bodies with their favourite flashlights.
At the moment I can give you some basic information on Tactical lights you're asking about:
- All older versions of tactical lights (v2 / v2.5 etc.) as well as Barracuda & Partner v1 have the threads different from those in the latest versions and models (v3, Barracuda & Partner v2, Dobermann). That's why the remote switch for Predator v2.5 doesn't match with Dobermann.
- New Predator v3, Viking v3, Barracuda v2, Dobermann & Partner v2 models have the same threads and can be used with the same remote switch (v2).
- If your're going to combine the flashlight's head with a different body please take into account the minimal & maximal voltage the model can maintain (the voltage is usually written at the head or body of the flashlight.
ArmyTek
Enlightened
Re: Share your opinion with us!
Thank you all for your opinions and advice! That has given us the ideas and grounds for reconsideration of thermal control in our lights =) We are going to discuss the possibilities with our engineers and make some changes in future flashlights. What conclusions we can draw now:
1. Of course we are not going to use any timers! Constant brightness is the main idea we're going to "fight for till the end".
2. Thank you all for your opinions and advice! That has given us the ideas and grounds for reconsideration of thermal control in our lights =) We are going to discuss the possibilities with our engineers and make some changes in future flashlights. What conclusions we can draw now:
1. Of course we are not going to use any timers! Constant brightness is the main idea we're going to "fight for till the end". We will definitely keep the full stabilization so that in the conditions of good air-cooling (in winter, on a bike or underwater etc.) Pro-flashlights will deliver constant light even with almost discharged battery.
2. We use the similar algorithm to maintain the temperature under the critical limit as Zebralight's PID but in our lights brightness "ups & downs" are larger and thus noticeable. We will make them smaller so they'll be gradual & unnoticeable. That will enable us to provide the maximum allowable brightness as well as keep the flashlight and your hands (or head) safe =)
3. We do not plan to decrease the Max outputs in this situation as that what is very important for many of our customers. We have plenty of models with different brightness & power sources so everyone can choose what he prefers. The thermal management issue regards mostly to high-power & compact lights with constant brightness such as Wizard or Viking Pro, that are too bright not to overheat & and too small to loose heat fast enough.
Thank you all for your opinions and advice! That has given us the ideas and grounds for reconsideration of thermal control in our lights =) We are going to discuss the possibilities with our engineers and make some changes in future flashlights. What conclusions we can draw now:
1. Of course we are not going to use any timers! Constant brightness is the main idea we're going to "fight for till the end".
2. Thank you all for your opinions and advice! That has given us the ideas and grounds for reconsideration of thermal control in our lights =) We are going to discuss the possibilities with our engineers and make some changes in future flashlights. What conclusions we can draw now:
1. Of course we are not going to use any timers! Constant brightness is the main idea we're going to "fight for till the end". We will definitely keep the full stabilization so that in the conditions of good air-cooling (in winter, on a bike or underwater etc.) Pro-flashlights will deliver constant light even with almost discharged battery.
2. We use the similar algorithm to maintain the temperature under the critical limit as Zebralight's PID but in our lights brightness "ups & downs" are larger and thus noticeable. We will make them smaller so they'll be gradual & unnoticeable. That will enable us to provide the maximum allowable brightness as well as keep the flashlight and your hands (or head) safe =)
3. We do not plan to decrease the Max outputs in this situation as that what is very important for many of our customers. We have plenty of models with different brightness & power sources so everyone can choose what he prefers. The thermal management issue regards mostly to high-power & compact lights with constant brightness such as Wizard or Viking Pro, that are too bright not to overheat & and too small to loose heat fast enough.
Latest posts
-
Is the 796 bulb a safe application for a reverse light?
- Latest: Hamilton Felix
-
-
-
-
