Sunwayman M11R Mr. Elfin (XM-L U2 | 1 x R/CR123) Review

[turboBB]

All, Indoor 5m shots added. Given broad voltage ranged, I've covered most battery types that it can accomodate.

@Pöbel - correct, there isn't the thick grease like on the V series and thx for the tip on the grease, I'll give it a shot in the future.

@KuanR - Congrats on the pick up! I just got a WK21 but haven't had time to do a comparo yet.

@Racer - Thx! Not sure of the origin of Mr. Elfin but I aim to find out! )

 

[trevordurden]

Can you please explain how you get into the 2 "hidden" strobe modes? I've been puzzling over how it's done on a ring interface for quite some time now.

 

[turboBB]

From Turbo/High, twist ring to Med and then immediately back to Turbo/High. It'll first enter Strobe, repeat within 1 second to enter SOS.

So:

Turbo/High -> Med -> Turbo/High = Strobe (which now replaces the Turbo/High mode)

within 1 second of engaging Strobe

Strobe (Turbo/High) -> Med -> Turbo/High = SOS

repeat again to enter back into Strobe

Neither hidden mode is memorized.

Hope that helps,
Tim

 

[trevordurden]

Yes it does, this interface sounds very practical for my needs. However, these new Sunwayman light look like they belong in a display case rather than beat up like a EDC light to me. I'd probably treat it like Nigel's guitar (skip ahead to 1 min):

 

[turboBB]

Hey sorry all, this one has to go on the back burner for a while...

In meanwhile, Sgt. LED, here you go:








Strangely though, the old V10A refuses to screw onto the M11R or V11R (but will thread most way on the V10R Ti+)::

Whereas the bezels between the V11R, M11R & V10R Ti are all interchangeable amongst each other and will screw on to the V10A without any issues.

I have quite a bit in the queue so will not be getting back to this for a bit, in meanwhile, any questions/requests, just ask.

Cheers,
Tim

 

[KuanR]

I have been carrying this light everyday for the past week, but because I don't use the holster and hang it on my belt, the light has managed to catch on to things and the clip gets bent. I took it off a few times already to bend it back, but in the process the 2 hex screws holding the clip is starting to strip (the head, not the threads). Does anyone know where I can get the 2 tiny replacement screws?

 

[turboBB]

I'm reasonably certain your local hardware store should stock these metric screws but I don't know the TPI or size but at local Home Depot here, they have sizing nuts where you can thread the hex bolt through to figure out the TPI/diameter then it's just a matter of finding the right length.

Since you mentioned the head is getting stripped, you might not have the correct size metric hex key (should be 2.0), so if you don't already have it, you may wish to pick one up as well.

Of course you can try contacting the dealer you purchased from or posting a help request on Sunwayman's MFG thread over on CPFMP.

Cheers,
Tim

 

[EspionageStudio.Com]

Great review! Very much appreciated, im liking Mr. Elfin.

 

[iowatollah]

pobel, I just recieved my Mr. Elfin and am wondering how you able to remove the lubricant under the ring and induce grease to tighten the operation. I can't figure out how to remove the ring.

 

[dajab77]

Just read this nice review. I'm thinking about getting one. Does anyone have any new (since the last post of 6/26/12) info or experiences with this light. Thanks for sharing.

 

[maxlightcp]

I just purchased one about 2 weeks ago. I carry a lot of gear on me and wanted something lighter and with a lower ride than my SureFire Backup. The Position of the clip allows me to close the flap completely on my cargo pants which I wear all the time so I can carry all my stuff.

The light is a flood of course, however the beam is solid with good coverage as described before. The magnetic ring works good for me, it could use more tension but so far has not switched on by itself. The 3 light output settings work perfect for me. Its a EDC for sure.

I have many lights, and for fit, function, and price I would rate it 4/5. Hope, this helps, I believe you will not be disappointed with the M11R U2.

 

[willydigger]

How does the L-M-H switch on the M11R compare to the variable on the V11R? I absolutely hated the ring on the V11R. It would turn in the pocket and you never knew what level it would be on with turning it on. I would much prefer a simple setting like the M11R, but I fear the detent will be weak at each step.

Is the M11R ring detent solid or junk? Has anyone had one come on in your pocket because of a weak detent?

Regarding the grease and oil, the V11R uses grease that squeezes out. It made my ring turn tight for a moment and then loosen. Does the M11R ring have some consistency?

 

[turboBB]

The ring detents on my M11R while OK could stand to be a little firmer but thus far, I don't believe I've had issues with it turning on by itself during pocket carry. There is minimal grease in the ring and I can feel the anodized surfaces rubbing against each other but the feeling is consistent throughout the entire travel.

Hope that helps.

Tim

 

[willydigger]

I decided it was best to just buy it and see for myself.

First off here are some pics of the light compared to my wonderful BC10.

I would rate the control ring on a scale of 1-10, 1 being loose, as a 4. I decided I wanted to try and make it better. So I took apart the control ring. I did a quick Google on how to disassemble the control ring. I found this awesome thread on the V10r (which is essentially the same as the V11r, M10r, and M11r).
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?330939-Sunwayman-V10A-V10R-control-ring-anatomy
After a quick read I went at it.

I wrapped the light with blue painters tape first so everything would come off easy. Duct tape can leave a residue.

Here is the bottom of the reflector section. There is a loose washer/o-ring so be careful you don't lose it.

It looks like it was held on with blue loc-tite. It certainly wasn't red.

Here is the body of the light with the ring removed. Notice the unfinished aluminum peaking out. Also notice the notch at the top of the shiny aluminum ring. This is the stop for the control ring.

Here is the control ring. The shiny piece at 5 o'clock is the control magnet. The piece at 4 o'clock in the spring. There is a ball detent under the spring. The ball detent is used to set the position of the Low-Med-High (I,II,III).

Here is the underside of the control ring with the ball detent.

Here is a top view of the mating portion of the control ring. You can see the stop at 9 o'clock and you can see the detent holes that the ball will set in.

I wiped away the light oil that was under the control ring and replaced it with Green Grease (an automotive super tacky grease). I added a small piece of plastic in the spring hole to add more tension to the ball detent.

After all the mods, on the same 1-10, the ring was a looseness 4. Now I'd rate it at 6. I'd rate the V11r as a looseness 6 too.

If you go this route, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE SEVERAL LAYERS OF DUCT TAPE SO THE PLIERS TEETH DON'T GET TO THE ANODIZED BODY.

 

[willydigger]

I did some more modding on the M11R. After removing the control ring originally and replacing it with grease, I found the factory detent holes where the ball engages for each setting wasn't deep enough. While the grease made the ring much easier to turn, the ball would not engage enough. I assume because the spring tension is relatively weak and the grease may have filled the detent hole.

So I took it back apart. I had ordered some Dow Vaccuum grease NLGI 3-4 and wanted to try it. The goal for the second disassembly was to change the grease, deepen the detent hole, and adjust the spring tension. Here are some pics.

Here it is with the top off and the LED covered.

Here is a partial shot of two cut out detent holes. Notice the two bright silver ones, and the factory stock detent.

Here are all 4 detents (Off-I-II-III) cut out. I deepened the hole and widened it, so the ball would sit deeper in the hole.

An alternate pic. It didn't have to be pretty since the control ring covers everything.

Now the control ring in smooth to turn. The grease is firm, but not too thick that it can't be turned one handed. The detents engage the ball at each set for a secure feel. Overall I'm very happy with it.

I deepened the holes with a variable speed Dremel.

Here is a quick EDC dump pic with the new light.

 

[willydigger]

Has any one mounted the M11R to the V11R body to have a clicky option? If so (or if someone can answer this), does the light ramp up that same as the normal V11R? When you turn on the V11R with the clicky there is slight delay. I was wondering if it was the same if you used the M11R.

 

[Pöbel]

what makes me wonder is the rough finish below your control ring. This looks like a quick and dirty last minute fix from Sunwayman. My M11R is completely anodized even below the control ring.

 

[turboBB]

@willdigger - nice write up on the tear down! should prove useful for those looking to do the same. As for mounting the V11R's tube w/the M11R's head, there is no delay, it comes on instantly. This "soft-ramp" is inherent to the V11R's circuitry and is not in the switch (which is just a basic mechanical forward-clicky).

 

[naked2]

If they made this thing with XP-G2, I'd buy one right now.

My first Sunwayman was a V10A XP-G; I love its beam. I had it bored for 17500 and still carry it every day. Only now, the ring is pretty loose, and always ends up turning to minimum in my pocket. I like the Idea of the detents, and could give up infinitely variable for three solid clicks, but XM-L in any reflector this size is a deal breaker for me.

I had a V10R XM-L; I hated the beam and sold it. Maybe I'll try disassembling my V10A and re-grease it for now.

 

[naked2]

OK, I'll eat my words; I just ordered a M11R from GoingGear at a substantial discount!