Hi twl.
I thought I could write long posts.
I think you win in that area right now!
I have just sent Elzetta an email asking about the use of rechargeable batteries in the Elzetta ZFL-60 flashlight.
You have already answered that one for me I think.
Can it use RCR123 (16340) batteries as it is not apparent on their website, only the word CELL is used?
I have plenty to digest and yes I would like to know about the Oveready triple please.
There is no such thing as information overload in my book at least.
I have the Zebralight SC600 but I really would like something a lot tougher than that light.
I would never punish my SC600 or any of my current collection the way that Elzetta do with the ZFL-M60 by disassembling and then reassembling it underwater or driving nails into timber with it like the Elzetta videos demonstrate.
Those videos show some pretty powerful stuff.
I suppose it should be able to take that treatment considering that the price is up there with the other high quality heavy duty EDC flashlights, but WOW!
CHEERS
Hi,
Basically the Elzetta is a Malkoff with a new body. It will take 2 x RCR123(16340) in the 2 cell body.
The M60 will accept that voltage, and it will run in regulation for the entire run time of the batteries. However, the M60 and M61 are both able to run in regulation for a short time on one 4.2v lithium-ion cell like a 17670 in this case with a 2 cell body, and have a short run in regulation and a very long mild taper-off of the brightness. Some people like this because it gives a long warning that the light is dimming, and you don't get the light clicked-off when the protection circuit of the battery kicks in. You can put a new battery in when it gets dim to a certain extent. So, different people run these modules different ways. You just want to be sure to NOT over-voltage them. You must pay attention to the maximum voltage rating.
I have the 3 cell body, but it's longer and might not be as convenient to carry as the 2 cell is.
When you hold this light in your hand, it is the definition of feeling indestructible. You can feel it.
Anyway, about the Oveready Pocket Triple.
It's an awesome light with a lot of configuration possibilities, and it can be very small in some of them.
Basically it comes down to the smaller you configure it, the shorter the run time. It's very attractive to configure it very small, and that's what I do, but I carry a couple of extra batteries with me. It's fully "Lego-able" with all the Moddoolar bodies and tailcaps and heads, and can be adapted to SureFire body parts too. It's very versatile, but it runs into some money getting all the parts to do these things.
So, I'll go into a few of my configurations for you, and describe them.
Here's my Triple XPG2 Cool White with 1600 lumen output. This configuration is called the "Shorty 50".
The max output is 1600 lamp lumens, so the OTF is somewhat less, probably around 1400 lumens OTF is my rough guess. Then medium is about 500 lumens, and low is about 16 lumens.
The pieces are the Triple XPG2 H3C Cool L/M/H head in black, with a Slim TL50 body tube, and a Diamondback tailcap with the ZeroRez Shorty switch eliminator taht makes it a twisty-only, but it allows the use of 2 x 18350 cells for max output, or a single 18650 for lower output and longer run time. This is the smallest configuration which allows full regulated output, and is right about at 4". Maybe a hair longer.
Here it is with a 18650 storage capsule and a business card from Oveready.
Next is the same head and tail with the same ZeroRez Shorty switch eliminator, for a single IMR18350 configuration called the "Stubby".
It's 2.75" long, and puts out 1100 lamp lumens at full output on the single battery.
It consists of the TL20 body which is too short to use any battery in, unless you make room for it with the ZeroRez Shorty switch eliminator in the tailcap, which gives you 15mm extra room, so you can fit that IMR18350 battery in it.
In this single battery configuration, it doesn't run in regulation at all. It starts out with as much as the single battery can produce at first, which is about 1100 lumens, and has a constant taper down until it runs do the 3v lower limit that the light has built in for warning, and the warning light begins to blink the light,. You should take that battery out before that happens, or at worst you should take it out when that happens, so that the battery is saved. IMR batteries are safe chemistry, but they are not protected, so don't run them down below 3v.
And you MUST use IMR 18350 in the 18350 configuration because it needs to supply gobs of current to run this 15 watt light engine. It will pull too much power to run an RCR123(16340). The minimum is one IMR18350.
Here's the Stubby.
I also have a Hard Anodized Gray(Natural) Pocket Triple from last year with the 10 watt engine and 3 x XPE Neutral 4500k behind the optics which gives a lower output but decent throw from the XPE emitters, and a neutral tint. It's about 1000 lamp lumens with 2 batteries, and 700 lumens with one battery, and the medium is 30% and the low is 1%, depending on what battery configuration you use you'll get that percentage of max on the medium and low modes.
On this one here with one battery(IMR18350) it's 700/210/7 for H/M/L, and it has the "Triad Tailcap" with the McClicky switch in it, and the TL35 body, and the stainless steel crenelated bezel and Ultra-Clear Lens.
These are all weaponlight rated heads and circuits, and they are super rugged. However, with the UCL lens, it's glass which can be broken. So, I treat it with care because it's an expensive light that I don't want to harm. But it could take a lot if it needed to. The glass might break, but it wouldn't be out of action. There are other lens options if you feel you might want to use a different lens. There are different bezel options too.
And there are selections of high output cool, or somewhat lower output Nichia 219 neutral LEDs for the people who want the High CRI stuff.
And even though the HA Gray Natural heads are not currently available, they should be back in stock in a couple months. It's limited production stuff, so it's common that certain variations get sold out and not available for a while. Triad tailcaps are currently out of stock too, but they will be back in a couple months from now, too. You have to grab this stuff when you can, because there are people sitting there just waiting for the part they want to come in stock, and they buy it right away. So, you need to be quick.
A word about run time.
In the single battery configurations with a single IMR18350, the run times are SHORT because it's BRIGHT.
You can expect maybe 15-20 minutes and that's all, on that one battery. It will never be in regulation on one battery, so it tapers, and as the battery depletes, when you switch to high, the output will not be as bright as when the battery was fresh.
This is the minimum configuration, and it is SHORT, so I always carry a couple of spares with my in that battery capsule.
On medium only, you could get maybe 50 minutes off one battery, and on low only you can get about 30 hours off one battery.
If you want to run an 18500 or 18650 or two of them, you can get longer battery tubes which allow it.
These are longer, and you may or may not like to carry a longer light, but if you do want to, the body options are there for you to select.
I personally like the Shorty 50 configuration the best, because it gives the highest output in the smallest size with 2 IMR18350 batteries.
The Stubby is smaller, but it has the reduced output and no regulation. Sometimes I take that one if I feel like "extra small" that day.
Anyway, you can configure them the way you want, so it's fun.
Get the battery storage capsule, because you'll want it with the short run times.
These things will blow your mind with the amount of output coming from such incredibly small packages.
It is just so much fun!
The build quality is great, and they are like little jewels.
One thing I have noticed is that since I got these things, it's hard for me to justify getting any other lights because these have so much power in such a small package that it almost obsoletes everything else available. Except in the run time department, and a few extra batteries in the storage capsule can help that out a lot.