The GS is here

[crocodilo]

Without beam shots, reviews and specific data, I doubt sales will take off. I myself am finding strange that these haven't come out yet. Without a good comparison with CS and DS models, I'm keeping my Paypal at the ready, but will not shoot for it. :shakehead

Also, why are the post regarding such an important outbreak as a new Arc AAA are only at the Arc sub-forum?

 

[this_is_nascar]

Without beam shots, reviews and specific data, I doubt sales will take off. I myself am finding strange that these haven't come out yet. Without a good comparison with CS and DS models, I'm keeping my Paypal at the ready, but will not shoot for it. :shakehead

Also, why are the post regarding such an important outbreak as a new Arc AAA are only at the Arc sub-forum?

If I recall, even the annoucments and dicussions of the DS were limited to the Arc section. I'm really curious about beam shots, due to the difference in beam (oval) of the GS. Although I said that I'm staying away from the GS version, I may have to break down, just so I can do my own testing that others (for whatever reason) seem to be reluctent to perform.

 

[:)>]

If I recall, even the annoucments and dicussions of the DS were limited to the Arc section. I'm really curious about beam shots, due to the difference in beam (oval) of the GS. Although I said that I'm staying away from the GS version, I may have to break down, just so I can do my own testing that others (for whatever reason) seem to be reluctent to perform.

TIN,

PM me your address and I will send mine up your way for evaluation. I really do prefer the beam shape of the DS.

I would buy another digital camera but I need to save money for all the new lights that are popping up from my favorite manufacturers.

Let me know if you want me to send it your way.

 

[Burgess]

Gosh . . . .


To Goatee and ThisIsNascar --


Thank you both for your efforts !


:twothumbs

_

 

[ampdude]

So the LED sticks out of the head?

 

[crocodilo]

Gosh . . . .


To Goatee and ThisIsNascar --


Thank you both for your efforts !


:twothumbs

_

These are the kind of guys that make CPF a very special place. :thumbsup:

 

[this_is_nascar]

TIN,

PM me your address and I will send mine up your way for evaluation. I really do prefer the beam shape of the DS.

I would buy another digital camera but I need to save money for all the new lights that are popping up from my favorite manufacturers.

Let me know if you want me to send it your way.

Thanks for the offer, but I think I'll just break-down and purchase one. This way, I can do what I want with it without worries. I do appreciate the offer and if I change my mind, I'll let you know.

 

[Tronic]

These are LED die photos of the Nichia DS and GS LED. (click to enlarge)

Nichia DS .......................Nichia GS
....

It is very interesting that it looks like the GS have only one LED die. :thinking:

After looking at the Nichia Web Page I think we have misunderstood the 20*3 part.
I think this means NOT 3 LED die with 20mA each.
I think the *3 is a remark that is described at the bottom with *3.Peak wavelength measurement allowance is ±3nm.

What do you think?

 

[chimo]

Good eye and very interesting pics. The DS die seems nice an dsquare, however, the GS seems rectangular. I don't see any other bond wires - a rectangular die (perhaps something from a backlighting package)?

These are LED die photos of the Nichia DS and GS LED. (click to enlarge)

Nichia DS .......................Nichia GS
....

It is very interesting that it looks like the GS have only one LED die. :thinking:

After looking at the Nichia Web Page I think we have misunderstood the 20*3 part.
I think this means NOT 3 LED die with 20mA each.
I think the *3 is a remark that is described at the bottom with *3.Peak wavelength measurement allowance is ±3nm.

What do you think?

 

[ouchmyfinger]

Hi Peter :wave:

Maybe you can help us all out here?

Beam shots coming.

Also am curious about the dome sticking out past the bezel. Should we be concerned?

 

[Gransee]

I just haven't had time to do beamshots, sorry.

Yes, the dome of the LED does stick out a small amount. I would definately not worry about the LED being more or less likely to be damaged than the submerged design. This is because the dome is pretty tough (the millions of squeeze lights with exposed LEDs testifies to this) and the amount is small enough to fit within the cone of protection afforded by the bezel from most angles of impact.

The reason it is higher is because the package is different. A side effect is that a tiny bit more light is captured by the reflector.

peter

 

[adamlau]

I received my Arc-P GS this afternoon. Tint is undeniably purple, even more so than the DS. Bulb is elevated ever so slightly above the bezel. Oval beam is not a concern as the beam is diffuse enough so as not to force an orientation issue. It is nothing along the lines of the truly oval P91/MN16 beams.

 

[this_is_nascar]

I received my Arc-P GS this afternoon. Tint is undeniably purple, even more so than the DS. Bulb is elevated ever so slightly above the bezel. Oval beam is not a concern as the beam is diffuse enough so as not to force an orientation issue. It is nothing along the lines of the truly oval P91/MN16 beams.

I'm really sorry to hear this. Does it stick out to the point where you can't stand-up the light?

 

[adamlau]

The GS is able to bezel stand at a slight tilt.

 

[chimo]

I received a few GS LEDs today and modded one of my ArcAAAs. I have a comparison between:

a stock ArcAAA with a CS,
an old ArcAAA modded with a DS, and
an old ArcAAA modded with a GS

Right Here

I had to enlarge the LED opening slightly (I used a long tapered reamer). I did this step slowly to ensure my LED does not extend past the bezel.

The hotspot is slightly rectangular but I do not find it bothersome at all.

Tint is similar to other Nichia fare.

 

[Blue72]

Thanks Chimo,

although the difference in brightness is enough to convince me to buy one. I will hold off until I hear more of the durability of the exposed LED.

Afterall the whole reason I bought an ARC in sacrifice of other brighter flashlights was the durability.

 

[chimo]

Thanks Chimo,

although the difference in brightness is enough to convince me to buy one. I will hold off until I hear more of the durability of the exposed LED.

Afterall the whole reason I bought an ARC in sacrifice of other brighter flashlights was the durability.

You are welcome. As Peter has mentioned, there are many button cell lights (Photon-style) that have exposed LEDs and last quite well. They are usually physically lighter so they don't have as much inertia when they hit something. However, I think he is correct in stating that it is not a big issue.

It is possible to mount the GS so that it does not stick out past the bezel (I did that with my mod). The one that did may have been an anomoly.

 

[Bullzeyebill]

Chino, a good comparison also would be a stock GS compared to your modded GS. Also, would you check the current from battery with each of the three AAA's? I know there are some who will say that it can not be done, but it can be done, and I have done it many times. Just difficult. Thanks,

Bill

 

[Blue72]

You are welcome. As Peter has mentioned, there are many button cell lights (Photon-style) that have exposed LEDs and last quite well. They are usually physically lighter so they don't have as much inertia when they hit something. However, I think he is correct in stating that it is not a big issue.

I guess time will tell. But so far I am not comfortable with the fact and feel it is a compromise in durability.

I know most people dont abuse their ARC. However, I only carry one light when traveling the outdoors .

 

[chimo]

That's no problem. I will have to wait until I get home.

For others, the easiest way to do this is:
- take off the head
- remove battery
- use the highest Current range of your DMM (10A/20A)
- (RIGHT HAND) hold one lead (-) to the bottom of the battery
- (LEFT HAND) hold the other lead (+) on the side of the head thread area (non-anodized)
- touch the battery anode to the head's positive contact and read teh current off the DMM

Note that this will insert at least a fraction of an ohm into the current path and will likely result in a slightly lower reading than actual due to the voltage drop across the leads.

An more accurate method is to use a low value resistor (say 0.1 or 0.05 ohms) instead of the multimeter leads to complete the circuit, read the voltage drop across the resistor and calculate the current.

Chino, a good comparison also would be a stock GS compared to your modded GS. Also, would you check the current from battery with each of the three AAA's? I know there are some who will say that it can not be done, but it can be done, and I have done it many times. Just difficult. Thanks,

Bill