ThruNite TN30 Review (3 x XM-L U2 | 3 x 18650)
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I got my TN30 for 1 day, Have to ship it back to Battery Junction, Due to it flick some time in L6 mode, Also I try the L6 and L5 on ceiling bounce test, It look like same brightness.
Sorry to hear about your flickering issues, what kind of cells are you using? Also, not sure if you've seen this thread.
As for L6 vs. L5, again, our eyes do not perceive light in a linear fashion thus it wouldn't appear that big a difference. At 30 seconds for each, I had previously measured 3020lms on L6 and 1830lms on L5.
Here is L6 and L5 side-by-side:
While there is a distinct difference, to my eyes, L6 doesn't seem to look 65% brighter vs. L5 as suggested by the lumens measurments. To me, it's more like 25-30% at best.
In real-life it's even harder for your eyes to pick this up as there are a few factors that may be potentially conspiring to lessen the differences:
- L6 has a quick soft-ramp so it doesn't instantly go full blast immediately but rather it'll ramp to full output within a second. Due to this soft-ramp, the transition isn't abrupt but somewhat "gradual" between L5 and L6. It'll actually black out temporarily thus when switching back and forth, this may be lessening the visual transition between L5 to L6
- there's ~200lms step down just after the first minute further tightening the gap between L5 to L6
- the TN30 isn't well regulated on L6 but is on L5 thus when running on L6 output is constantly dropping but is steady on L5
Here is a three minute runtime that I captued on my light meter just now on freshly charged cells:
- I first turned it on in L6 until it stepped down just after a minute then dropped it to L5 and left it there for nearly 30 seconds (but notice how it's actually stable and in fact creeping up a little on L5)
- Then I flipped it back to L6 and left it there for approx. 15 seconds (again, note how output is subtly dropping) and then switched to L5 for a few seconds
- Next the series of peaks/troughs you see are constant flips between L6 to L5 and back but note how it'll actually dip down below 1200lms before ramping up to full output. This is where I think the gradual (even if transitioned over a second) is further lessing the effect of the visual transitions between L6/L5
It could very well be that your particular TN30 has a distinct defect where L6/L5 are not spaced far enough apart but I have a feeling that even on your replacement, you'll still be hard pressed to notice the "stated on-paper" difference between L6 to L5. This has been a common complaint with the TN30 and is a factor that manufacturer's should take into account when spacing the output levels since again, our eyes do not perceive differences in brightness in accordance to what's on paper.
Hope that helps and best of luck w/your TN30.
Cheers,
Tim
As for L6 vs. L5, again, our eyes do not perceive light in a linear fashion thus it wouldn't appear that big a difference. At 30 seconds for each, I had previously measured 3020lms on L6 and 1830lms on L5.
Here is L6 and L5 side-by-side:
While there is a distinct difference, to my eyes, L6 doesn't seem to look 65% brighter vs. L5 as suggested by the lumens measurments. To me, it's more like 25-30% at best.
In real-life it's even harder for your eyes to pick this up as there are a few factors that may be potentially conspiring to lessen the differences:
- L6 has a quick soft-ramp so it doesn't instantly go full blast immediately but rather it'll ramp to full output within a second. Due to this soft-ramp, the transition isn't abrupt but somewhat "gradual" between L5 and L6. It'll actually black out temporarily thus when switching back and forth, this may be lessening the visual transition between L5 to L6
- there's ~200lms step down just after the first minute further tightening the gap between L5 to L6
- the TN30 isn't well regulated on L6 but is on L5 thus when running on L6 output is constantly dropping but is steady on L5
Here is a three minute runtime that I captued on my light meter just now on freshly charged cells:
- I first turned it on in L6 until it stepped down just after a minute then dropped it to L5 and left it there for nearly 30 seconds (but notice how it's actually stable and in fact creeping up a little on L5)
- Then I flipped it back to L6 and left it there for approx. 15 seconds (again, note how output is subtly dropping) and then switched to L5 for a few seconds
- Next the series of peaks/troughs you see are constant flips between L6 to L5 and back but note how it'll actually dip down below 1200lms before ramping up to full output. This is where I think the gradual (even if transitioned over a second) is further lessing the effect of the visual transitions between L6/L5
It could very well be that your particular TN30 has a distinct defect where L6/L5 are not spaced far enough apart but I have a feeling that even on your replacement, you'll still be hard pressed to notice the "stated on-paper" difference between L6 to L5. This has been a common complaint with the TN30 and is a factor that manufacturer's should take into account when spacing the output levels since again, our eyes do not perceive differences in brightness in accordance to what's on paper.
Hope that helps and best of luck w/your TN30.
Cheers,
Tim
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brightnorm
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A quick way to see the difference between levels 5 and 6:
Aim TN30 at ceiling, turn on level 6 and observe room for a few seconds. Then immediately switch to level five, and you will notice a very clear and distinct (though not dramatic) difference.
If you see very little or no difference either your batteries are partially depleted, the light is malfunctioning, or both.
Brightnorm
Aim TN30 at ceiling, turn on level 6 and observe room for a few seconds. Then immediately switch to level five, and you will notice a very clear and distinct (though not dramatic) difference.
If you see very little or no difference either your batteries are partially depleted, the light is malfunctioning, or both.
Brightnorm
Sorry to hear about your flickering issues, what kind of cells are you using? Also, not sure if you've seen this thread.
As for L6 vs. L5, again, our eyes do not perceive light in a linear fashion thus it wouldn't appear that big a difference. At 30 seconds for each, I had previously measured 3020lms on L6 and 1830lms on L5.
Here is L6 and L5 side-by-side:
While there is a distinct difference, to my eyes, L6 doesn't seem to look 65% brighter vs. L5 as suggested by the lumens measurments. To me, it's more like 25-30% at best.
In real-life it's even harder for your eyes to pick this up as there are a few factors that may be potentially conspiring to lessen the differences:
- L6 has a quick soft-ramp so it doesn't instantly go full blast immediately but rather it'll ramp to full output within a second. Due to this soft-ramp, the transition isn't abrupt but somewhat "gradual" between L5 and L6. It'll actually black out temporarily thus when switching back and forth, this may be lessening the visual transition between L5 to L6
- there's ~200lms step down just after the first minute further tightening the gap between L5 to L6
- the TN30 isn't well regulated on L6 but is on L5 thus when running on L6 output is constantly dropping but is steady on L5
Here is a three minute runtime that I captued on my light meter just now on freshly charged cells:
- I first turned it on in L6 until it stepped down just after a minute then dropped it to L5 and left it there for nearly 30 seconds (but notice how it's actually stable and in fact creeping up a little on L5)
- Then I flipped it back to L6 and left it there for approx. 15 seconds (again, note how output is subtly dropping) and then switched to L5 for a few seconds
- Next the series of peaks/troughs you see are constant flips between L6 to L5 and back but note how it'll actually dip down below 1200lms before ramping up to full output. This is where I think the gradual (even if transitioned over a second) is further lessing the effect of the visual transitions between L6/L5
It could very well be that your particular TN30 has a distinct defect where L6/L5 are not spaced far enough apart but I have a feeling that even on your replacement, you'll still be hard pressed to notice the "stated on-paper" difference between L6 to L5. This has been a common complaint with the TN30 and is a factor that manufacturer's should take into account when spacing the output levels since again, our eyes do not perceive differences in brightness in accordance to what's on paper.
Hope that helps and best of luck w/your TN30.
Cheers,
Tim
Just got my new replacement TN30 from BatteryJunction, It all level work great, They have told me, The one I had is defected, It have a lot of flood, The throw is good for around 150 yard, I was shooting at 50 yard outdoor range with few of my pistol and can, It light up entire target and more, Very happy with this TN30, Now I have the SUPBEAM K40 on the way, Should be here next Tuesday, going to see the different between the both side by side. Any one have picture of the 2 light comparison?
Now I need
light that throw more distance, I'm in Vegas, It got light every where you go, its hard to tell the different unless going to desert,Any LED light have good throw and flood for AR shooting around 300 to 400 yard? I'm using EagleTac 3100mah 18650.
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I have the L3 Illumination version of the K40. It's supposed to be driven a little harder (3.5A vs. 3A). While these are not outdoor shots, it should give you an idea of the output difference via celing bounce:
L3 Illumination K40 (review)
L6
ThruNite TN30
L6
and beam profile to 5m:
L: K40 | R: TN30
Don't do any shooting so can't recommend a specific light for your application but I suppose something in 2 cell config w/turob head like 7G5CS U3 or T40CS should work.
Cheers,
Tim
L3 Illumination K40 (review)
L6
ThruNite TN30
L6
and beam profile to 5m:
L: K40 | R: TN30
Don't do any shooting so can't recommend a specific light for your application but I suppose something in 2 cell config w/turob head like 7G5CS U3 or T40CS should work.
Cheers,
Tim
Yup this reply. I don't have the SupBeam version so was going by what the dealer had mentioned so I'm not certain if they were always >3A as well.
Thx,
Tim
Thx,
Tim
Just got my TN30 and TN31 today.
However there was a problem getting the TN30 to work.
It would not light at all, only on low in all modes and maybe 1 in 10 times i reseated the battery holder, it would work as it should.
After changing batteries and battery holders between the TN30 and the TN31, i found that the problem was with the battery holder.
The voltages were ok, and only after half an hour, I found the problem.
One of the metal discs on the end of the battery holder, weren't centered, so when it is put into the flashlight, it would short circuit against the wall.
Solution was easy. Just unscrew the 3 screws and recenter the disc.
I will propably insulate it even further, using either tape or paint.
Some pictures:
Before centering:
After Centering:
However there was a problem getting the TN30 to work.
It would not light at all, only on low in all modes and maybe 1 in 10 times i reseated the battery holder, it would work as it should.
After changing batteries and battery holders between the TN30 and the TN31, i found that the problem was with the battery holder.
The voltages were ok, and only after half an hour, I found the problem.
One of the metal discs on the end of the battery holder, weren't centered, so when it is put into the flashlight, it would short circuit against the wall.
Solution was easy. Just unscrew the 3 screws and recenter the disc.
I will propably insulate it even further, using either tape or paint.
Some pictures:
Before centering:
After Centering:
We don't have that 'autosol' here in my place. What is that chemical made of? Any other name/description of that? When you removed the yellow coating, the 'after' disc still has a coating? What if you sand the disc, will it eventually rust? Thanks
You can get autosol on ebay, you could also sandblast the metal plates if you have access to that method.
As for the ingredients:
http://www.conservationsupportsystems.com/system/assets/msds/Autosol.pdf
Where do you live?
As for the ingredients:
http://www.conservationsupportsystems.com/system/assets/msds/Autosol.pdf
Where do you live?
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Hello all, I bought a new ThruNite TN30 Mini, I ordered the Cool White model but it just seems like it has way too much yellow to be cool white, I really didn't want a yellow shade. As you can see in my picture, the yellow on the left is my new TN 30 and to the right is my older bike LED light which is very bright but also very bright white. I contacted the company but they seem to think I have the cool white model. I don't know, because I really don't have another one to compare with. Anyone have any thoughts, maybe they sent me the wrong one? The box says cool white but I just think it has too much yellow?
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