scout24
Flashaholic
That, sir, is a pretty picture... 
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Ti Mule Nichia 119 High CRI - Arrived !! - Lots of images
- Thread starter Bass
- Start date
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PoliceScannerMan
Flashaholic
You know Bass, I had initially wanted only a Haiku when I wanted to try out McGizmo for the first time but it is your photos that convinced me I also needed a Mule. I ended up buying both together. I am a full time photographer and I really appreciate nice photos. Thanks for getting me where I am! The Mule is really a beauty!
There is something about the raw look of the Ti Mule head, emitter and PCB and wires exposed, that is very industrial yet exceptionally attractive looking. When it comes to the "business end", it is one of my favorite lights to gaze upon. Very nice pics buddy. :thumbsup:
Thanks for the reference Dan and also for bumping up this thread! I've been following the renewed interest in Don's CRI models on the forum and it's great to see. These really are the most amazing lights in terms of looks, build, function and utility.
I'll leave the excellent beamshots to Dan, he's so much better at it but I do have a new Mule shot to share
Man - what you do with a camera is awesome. Beautiful, awesome photo. The colors are amazing. I would love to see that taken with large format film!!
I have three quick questions about the Mule:
1. What Kind of lumens should I expect out of the high CRI Mule? And for the XML Mule (while we're at it)?
2. Could I simply buy the Mule head and use it on the 1x123 Haiku body?
3. Am I on point that the only Mule purchase options right now are the XML and CRI?
Many thanks!
1. What Kind of lumens should I expect out of the high CRI Mule? And for the XML Mule (while we're at it)?
2. Could I simply buy the Mule head and use it on the 1x123 Haiku body?
3. Am I on point that the only Mule purchase options right now are the XML and CRI?
Many thanks!
I can't answer # 1, but I can answer the others. Cartainly, the XML Mule will be brighter than the High CRI. What you do need to remember is that the Mule is all flood as it does not have a refector, so a particular lumen output on the Mule will likely seem less when compared to another light with a comparable lumen output and a more focused beam.
For # 2, the High CRI Mule and Haiku share the same 1x123 body, so yes, you could simply buy the Mule head and use it on the 1x123 Haiku body. However, if you have the extra $, I would recommend a complete light. That way, you don't have to keep switching back and forth heads.
For # 3, Don is currently offering the Nichia 119 (High CRI) and XML emitters on the Ti Mule, so you are on point.
1. I believe the Nichia 119 LE puts out about 90 lm, while the XM-L LE puts out something like 185 I believe. You can check the relevant wave threads, I think Don has posted figures in those.
2. Yes, but I agree with tsl, complete lights are easier if you can put up the dough.
3. You can put any of Don's light engines in the Mule, whether XM-L, Nichia, or XP-G. Talk to Don about it, he will probably stick whichever one in there you want, the threads are all the same, and there is no reflector to cause interference, so you can mix 'n match with the Mule.
easilyled
Flashaholic
+1. Abolutely fantastic picture. Your photos are incredible, Bass.
after tracing again n again for five days, I got mine finally. awesome n love this!
one question about the clicky. I can put the light on and off with clicky feelings, but to change the brightness, have to click a bit more stronger and sometimes it dosen't work even the "clicky touch". I mean, to change the brightness, I have to press a bit deeper or further in or stronger than to put on and off. is this usual for the clicky switch?
one question about the clicky. I can put the light on and off with clicky feelings, but to change the brightness, have to click a bit more stronger and sometimes it dosen't work even the "clicky touch". I mean, to change the brightness, I have to press a bit deeper or further in or stronger than to put on and off. is this usual for the clicky switch?
I had the same "problem" when I got my lights, but after a few times of using it you will understand the feel, timing and sequence to click. Your timing when clicking has got to be accurate, fast enough but not too fast. You do not need to click hard to change the output but you need to make sure the switch is fully disengaged before clicking again. Do note also that when you are using CR123 primary batteries, changing output from high is nearly impossible when the battery is weak.
pjandyho, Thanx for your tip. Now I know that I have to get familiar with this switch. also now I'm aware that I get a sign of a weak primaly batteries!
+1 should be getting my XML Haiku tomorrow now I know what to expect.
Next will be a mule head when I figure what led I want.
Welcome. Hope you enjoy your new light. Once you get used to the switching sequence you will really appreciate the beauty and functionality of this light.
Just got my second McGizmo - this Mule is sweet. It's a nice compliment to the Haiku in regards to how I'll use it.
Haiku: EDC, balance of throw and flood
Mule: close up utility use, camp side light, indoor tasks, photography
Haiku: EDC, balance of throw and flood
Mule: close up utility use, camp side light, indoor tasks, photography
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