kramer5150
Flashaholic
I am tired of messing around with drop-ins trying to get something to work in my Surefire C2. For those of you who don't have a C2, if the head isn't screwed all the way down, the pocket clip wiggles around. So far every drop-in I have tried is essentially the same style reflector and pill and they all have the same problems.
Something is wrong with your clip. It should not be loose like that... regardless of how snug the bezel fits onto the body. The C2s and M2s I have handled have not had loose fitting clips, even with the bezel removed.
In my other P60 lights I just cut the spring down and it leaves a small gap between the head and body that I fill with a black o-ring. However that isn't an option for the C2. If I use even a portion of the spring it leaves a gap and if I leave the spring off I can't get a reliable connection. I have tried shoving aluminum foil around/in along with several other pieces of metal and wire. I have also tried sanding off the anodizing around the top of the body so the reflector might make contact there. Nothing has been reliable.
Try removing the large spring. SOME (not all) chinese P60 module pills can be unscrewed just a little to elongate the module and maintain electrical contact with minimal bezel-body gap.
Here are things I am considering...
Getting a Malkoff. Excuse my ignorance, but I don't understand how the design of these works that well for this. It seems like without an outer spring, they would rely on the head applying pressure to hold it against the inner wall of the body. That doesn't leave much room for error in getting a tight fitting head while also maintaining a connection. Any input from people who have them in C2s?
A Malkoff M60 will not solve your clip problem. Gene designed the M60 housing to be slightly longer than necessary. Its been designed this way to provide adequate electrical and thermal contact with the body over the entire population of Surefire hosts. In other words, the M60 is intentionally made on the long-side to compensate for tolerance variations.
I am also considering using a P60L, taking it apart and building my own with the assembly, that way it will fit as originally intended. Has anyone ever done this?
Not worth your time. The P60L does not have ANY thermal conduction path. You will overheat the LED, unless you run it at low current. At that point, you may as well just use the stock P60L module.
Thanks for any input or suggestions.
Sure no prob... your clip is defective though. It should not depend on the tightness of the bezel.
Something is wrong with your clip. It should not be loose like that... regardless of how snug the bezel fits onto the body. The C2s and M2s I have handled have not had loose fitting clips, even with the bezel removed.
In my other P60 lights I just cut the spring down and it leaves a small gap between the head and body that I fill with a black o-ring. However that isn't an option for the C2. If I use even a portion of the spring it leaves a gap and if I leave the spring off I can't get a reliable connection. I have tried shoving aluminum foil around/in along with several other pieces of metal and wire. I have also tried sanding off the anodizing around the top of the body so the reflector might make contact there. Nothing has been reliable.
Try removing the large spring. SOME (not all) chinese P60 module pills can be unscrewed just a little to elongate the module and maintain electrical contact with minimal bezel-body gap.
Here are things I am considering...
Getting a Malkoff. Excuse my ignorance, but I don't understand how the design of these works that well for this. It seems like without an outer spring, they would rely on the head applying pressure to hold it against the inner wall of the body. That doesn't leave much room for error in getting a tight fitting head while also maintaining a connection. Any input from people who have them in C2s?
A Malkoff M60 will not solve your clip problem. Gene designed the M60 housing to be slightly longer than necessary. Its been designed this way to provide adequate electrical and thermal contact with the body over the entire population of Surefire hosts. In other words, the M60 is intentionally made on the long-side to compensate for tolerance variations.
I am also considering using a P60L, taking it apart and building my own with the assembly, that way it will fit as originally intended. Has anyone ever done this?
Not worth your time. The P60L does not have ANY thermal conduction path. You will overheat the LED, unless you run it at low current. At that point, you may as well just use the stock P60L module.
Thanks for any input or suggestions.
Sure no prob... your clip is defective though. It should not depend on the tightness of the bezel.
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