Justin Case
Flashlight Enthusiast
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Yeah... I know... that has to be the most famous sentence ever to be said by extra-terrestrial...
BUT !!! Have you seen Army of Darkness ???
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XkiktYPROa0
How do you get 110 bulb lumens out of the MN01, which I believe is rated at 15 lumens when powered by 1xCR123A? That bulb draws about 0.7A, which is twice the output of 1x7135, so if anything you will be underdriving the lamp.
What I plan to do is... install Nichia219 LED on one of these pills which is going to be driven by one of NANJG ROHS-111 driver stripped of all but one 7135 regulator... it would be SINGLE MODE, of course... and at that amperage, the LED outputs about 114 lumens... Now, the choice of the battery would dictate whether we strip polarity protection diode from the driver also... by removing it, there will be no voltage drop that that diode is making and the LED would stay longer in regulation when powered with single CR123 primary battery... that's why I call this "direct replacement of MN01 bulb", because it's the closest you can get to it that I can think of... it's only CR123 friendly, Li-Ion would put too much voltage to the LED... it would probably work but would stress LED too much with constant use...
That way it would stay in that 80 OTF lumens range for couple of hours then start long and nice dimming... It should be 2-3 hours before unnoticeable dimming start... as for runtime, you get the idea... max pull is 350mA thanks to that single regulator... from 1400mAh battery, it's min of 4 hours of light... but it will be HOURS of running since as the voltage drops, the amp pull will be less than 350mA...
I have an E1E host just waiting for this to become a reality!
I'm now glad I hesitated on the current run of N219 you're doing. I'm going to wait on this version to get worked out. If you think it could handle the 3.2v of a Lithium Iron Phosphate (LFP, LiFePo4) that would be awesome. 80 lumen OTF in a direct MN01 replacement with that kind of run time would be ideal. I'd really like to get that tiny little incan head back on my E1e.What I plan to do is... install Nichia219 LED on one of these pills which is going to be driven by one of NANJG ROHS-111 driver stripped of all but one 7135 regulator... it would be SINGLE MODE, of course... and at that amperage, the LED outputs about 114 lumens... Now, the choice of the battery would dictate whether we strip polarity protection diode from the driver also... by removing it, there will be no voltage drop that that diode is making and the LED would stay longer in regulation when powered with single CR123 primary battery... that's why I call this "direct replacement of MN01 bulb", because it's the closest you can get to it that I can think of... it's only CR123 friendly, Li-Ion would put too much voltage to the LED... it would probably work but would stress LED too much with constant use...
That way it would stay in that 80 OTF lumens range for couple of hours then start long and nice dimming... It should be 2-3 hours before unnoticeable dimming start... as for runtime, you get the idea... max pull is 350mA thanks to that single regulator... from 1400mAh battery, it's min of 4 hours of light... but it will be HOURS of running since as the voltage drops, the amp pull will be less than 350mA...
I'm now glad I hesitated on the current run of N219 you're doing. I'm going to wait on this version to get worked out. If you think it could handle the 3.2v of a Lithium Iron Phosphate (LFP, LiFePo4) that would be awesome. 80 lumen OTF in a direct MN01 replacement with that kind of run time would be ideal. I'd really like to get that tiny little incan head back on my E1e.
I'm sure it will function, but it probably won't pull the full 350mA drive.
The Nichia datasheet says Vf is typically 3.0V at 350mA drive. Doesn't say what Vf rank, so if you're lucky, your emitters have lower Vf. But if you need 3.0V for 350mA drive, you aren't going to get it from 1x123A. Referencing Silverfox's 123 shootout curves and extrapolating a bit, at 500mA current draw, a 123A cell can hold about 2.75V under load. Most likely, 350mA drive will give similar results. Also factor in that a 7135 needs another 120mV to reach full regulation and you need 3.12V min. That excludes parasitic resistance in your flashlight (from contact resistances, switch resistances, etc), that add additional voltage drop that needs to be overcome. If we assume 100milliohms parasitic resistance, then that gives another 0.035V, for an estimated total of about 3.15V. At that level, I'd say it is 99.99% certain that you won't reach full regulation.
However, the 7135 is a very forgiving chip. Even if you are at say 2.8V or something like that, you should get something close to full regulation. And you get that superlong tailoff wrt output. You don't get the sudden shutoff like you do with a buck driver. So tens of hours later, you will still get some lumens output.
If you want to run the Nichia in full regulation off of 1x123A at 350mA drive, my suggestion still stands -- use a 14mm diam Sandwich Shoppe GD boost-buck driver.
Tana,
I've received the 3-mode XP-G2 module you sent. Good flood and a nice hotspot. Very happy with it.
My original intention was to use it with a E1L body which I had been EDCing. To my surprise the dropin didn't fit! The pill wouldn't go all the way into the tube so I can't screw the bezel on. However, it does fit perfectly on a E1E/E2E body. So I guess the E1L has a smaller diameter tube, never knew that, I assumed they would be the same.
Nonetheless I'm very happy with the dropin. Thank you for offering a great product.
I just got the 219 module and I'm super happy with it.
The 3 drive levels are well balanced and work great with the e2 reflector.
I look forward to playing with it more after the sun sets...
Can you guys provide a beam shot of the 219 3-mode module. I'm interested in one for my SF E2D. Has anyone tried this module with li-ion 17670, and what was the run time?
Thanks,
I just received my XP-G2 version and it's a great little dropin. As Tana said, the beam is similar to others like it, fairly narrow hotspot and wide spill due to the stock reflector. I would take a beamshot but it's not the Nichia 219 version so don't think that would help. The XP-G2 version is also quite white and, as indicated by Tana to me, it doesn't have that yellow fringing. :thumbsup:Can you guys provide a beam shot of the 219 3-mode module. I'm interested in one for my SF E2D. Has anyone tried this module with li-ion 17670, and what was the run time?
Thanks,
Redhat703,
Sorry, I'm stuck in the middle of nowhere on this ultra-quiet pre-season vacation with my wife... as soon as I get home, I'll have to do TONS of beamshots (I suck in making them but I do need to make few for pretty much any product I have) and post to appropriate threads... Unless someone with more experience beat me to it who already have my SingLED...
It's pretty much the same beam as with any other E-tower made in the past by any modder... except that Nichia gives great tint even in this shallow and wide reflector...
I just received my XP-G2 version and it's a great little dropin. As Tana said, the beam is similar to others like it, fairly narrow hotspot and wide spill due to the stock reflector. I would take a beamshot but it's not the Nichia 219 version so don't think that would help. The XP-G2 version is also quite white and, as indicated by Tana to me, it doesn't have that yellow fringing. :thumbsup:
I also did a non-scientific runtime test with my SF E2 body, SingLED and a fairly old (2 yrs+) AW 17670 that had a starting voltage of 2.18v. It ran for 1:12 till the low voltage cutoff kicked-in, then the output dropped and began to blink every 2-3 seconds. Ending voltage was 3.24v.