TorchLAB V5 Triple LED drop ins - Programming, 3500L, Secondary LED

[ElectronGuru]

I have a 6p coming in that I'm going to bore out and install a zerores switch. The xpl will go in that one. I also ordered an acrylic host for the 219. Hopefully they'll release some more torchlab p60 hosts soon.

We don't have the resources to do everything at once, so we tend to do things in 'sets'. TL hosts are part of the Moddoolar set and probably won't be ready until more Wasps are ready, some time into next year.

I'm having he most difficult time programming my wasp head. I successfully did it the first try as soon as I received it, programmed it with a normal lmhr program but I put a hybrid memory in it as well. I can't for he life of me get it back into program mode. Help?

V5 doesn't change how it 'listens' as the LEDs change but its easy to get caught up in watching what the LEDs are doing. Get a feel for the rhythm with this video and 'power through' whatever the LEDs do:

 

[boafish]

Weird enough, I switched to my triad tail cap with zerores switch and it went into programming mode the first try. Thanks Dan

 

[KITROBASKIN]

Battery check feature: Can it be used as a low beacon? An interesting red/white slow/low beacon?

 

[ElectronGuru]

Battery check feature: Can it be used as a low beacon? An interesting red/white slow/low beacon?

Yes and no. The voltage meter loops continuously so it will run just fine for a variety of uses/applications. However, indicator modes disregard battery protection, so days of use is not recommended with IMR.

 

[seasam]

Love the V5 219 drop :twothumbs This is such a great upgrade over the Wasp 4.1 219 I once owned. Basically the same max output on one cell as I used to get with two cells. Now that the 3500 Panasonic and LG cells are here too, this is awesome. Thanks Oveready.

 

[PoliceScannerMan]

Love the V5 219 drop :twothumbs This is such a great upgrade over the Wasp 4.1 219 I once owned. Basically the same max output on one cell as I used to get with two cells. Now that the 3500 Panasonic and LG cells are here too, this is awesome. Thanks Oveready.

It is bright! Love it.

 

[boafish]

Can't wait for mine to come in to see

 

[monanza]

Both the XP-L and 219 are wonderfully bright on single cell. Charging up some 18350's to try double cells next. :rock:

 

[Kestrel]

Both the XP-L and 219 are wonderfully bright on single cell. Charging up some 18350's to try double cells next. :rock:

:envy:

 

[seasam]

I had a chance to test my 219 drop in running a single 18650. A few informal observations, not surprising, but observable (light meter used):

McClicky (switch) vs ZRS (solid brass):
-->McClicky does not seem up to the task of a single 18650 running 14w/17w modes and light will throttle down sooner than if ZRS used.

Batteries used: Sony VTC5 (2600mAh), VTC4 (2100mAh), Samsung 30Q (3000mAh), LG INR18650MJ1 (3500mAh), LG ICR18650D1 (3000mAh)
-->Any of the high drain batteries seem to make a noticeable difference in keeping the light brighter longer. I didn't record any measurements but did notice that for equivalent voltages, the high discharge batteries provided more output (less voltage sag?). For example, the LG INR18650MJ1 would probably not be my pick for running this light at 17w for as long as possible - the VTC5 seemed to fare a little better even though you might think the LG MJ1 3500mAh battery should have more capacity than the Sony VTC5 2600mAh.

Conclusion:
After observing the performance of 14w/17w on a single 18650 with the 219b, I've decided to:
-->Run 14w max on a single 18650 (with any of the above listed batteries except for the LG D1)
-->Use a ZRS as this will provide me with the brightest light for the longest amount of time.

17w doesnt provide enough of a noticeable increase in light, and if I remember correctly drops off anyway when the battery gets down to about ~3.9V resting.

As far as battery selection, any of the high discharge batteries seemed fine, but with a more conservative output I think the LG MJ1 would be the obvious choice. I have no data to back this up

 

[bykfixer]

HOLY COW!!!
Now that folks...is something to get all whipped into a frenzy about...

 

[scout24]

The more I use this, indoors and out, the happier I am with the tint of the XPL's, the beam pattern, and the programmability. A quick screenshot makes it easy to remember what you've got going on, and dropping or bumping a level or two is cake. Very impressive so far!

 

[badtziscool]

You wouldn't happen to have a v5 triple copper e or a v5 wasp to compare this to, would you? Dan said that the tint for the v5 p60 is slightly cooler. Just wondering how it compares to the other v5 triples.

The more I use this, indoors and out, the happier I am with the tint of the XPL's, the beam pattern, and the programmability. A quick screenshot makes it easy to remember what you've got going on, and dropping or bumping a level or two is cake. Very impressive so far!

 

[boafish]

As soon as my xpl and 219 drop ins come in, I'll take a comparison shot between them and my v5 wasp

 

[th8tredude]

I have an XP-L Wasp head and just got an XP-L drop-in. I would call the Wasp 4500K, and the drop somewhere between 4750-5000K. I like the drop color better. Now I want a new board for my Wasp to match as I prefer neutral. Hope that helps...

 

[badtziscool]

Yeah. Dan says triple e and wasps are 4000k and the drops are 4500k so your comments are consistent. Thanks for the comments.

I have an XP-L Wasp head and just got an XP-L drop-in. I would call the Wasp 4500K, and the drop somewhere between 4750-5000K. I like the drop color better. Now I want a new board for my Wasp to match as I prefer neutral. Hope that helps...

 

[ElectronGuru]

Yeah, there seems to be multiple color scales in play. Here is ours:

6000 - cool
5000 - slightly cool
4500 - neutral (219 + latest XPL)
4000 - slightly warm (E XPL and summer Wasp XPL)
3000 - warm


People vying for neutral don't like any cool but many like slightly warm.
So we tend to gravitate between 4000 and 4500.

 

[monanza]

Hard to tell the difference between the two dropins (XP-L vs. 219) on a single battery without a color reference. The 219 appears slightly warmer though. Both are awesome.

 

[Dingle1911]

First, I want to thank the Oveready Team for the super fast delivery of my drop in. I have been playing with the voltage and programming. It usually takes me a few tries with my tablet to set a program but it has been working pretty consistently.

It may be due to the frosted optics but I can only get bounce to work with single cell and McClickie switch. When I switch to a zerores switch the drop in goes to red as soon as I go to afterburner. This isn't a big deal from a usability standpoint but may indicate slightly more output with a ZRS installed. There is no perceived difference to my eyes though.

I currently swap between two programs, a daytime program with L-M-H, and a nighttime program with R-D-M-H, with the high more of a medium+. I find the red emitter very useful for midnight diaper changes without waking others sleeping.

 

[KITROBASKIN]

Consider reducing sensitivity of the Bounce feature if your light is going to red while not reflecting off of something close. I put white electrical tape in the bottom of my flashlight holsters to get enough reflection for the Bounce feature to activate, at the level of sensitivity I use.

Have you tried the battery gauge? Must be so handy for users!

And the tint? I'm sure it is great in snow.