Looks like the size is all wrong to fit into a normal battery tray, too bad... yes, I am a cheap bas^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^H individual of a frugal nature... but then again the Optima in the Heep is working fine and the Bimmer won't need a battery for hopefully another year or two yet (touch wood)
Uninterruptable farmhouse lighting
- Thread starter JohanF
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Looks like the size is all wrong to fit into a normal battery tray, too bad... yes, I am a cheap bas^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^H individual of a frugal nature... but then again the Optima in the Heep is working fine and the Bimmer won't need a battery for hopefully another year or two yet (touch wood)
FRITZHID
Flashlight Enthusiast
Sim or pure sine wave has had no issues in my system as far as CFL goes.
When it comes to items like routers, phones, ect.... I check voltages and if they run off 12v, I bypass the whole system and wire them directly to my 12v supply. Why convert 12v to 120v just to run it into a wall wort that converts it into 12v again? Even a DC to DC converter is massively more efficient then running it thru a inverter. I run 9v items at 12v with no issues since wall worts often peak over 10v during surges. All my telcom equipment runs off my 12v supply, never had a failure yet.
When it comes to items like routers, phones, ect.... I check voltages and if they run off 12v, I bypass the whole system and wire them directly to my 12v supply. Why convert 12v to 120v just to run it into a wall wort that converts it into 12v again? Even a DC to DC converter is massively more efficient then running it thru a inverter. I run 9v items at 12v with no issues since wall worts often peak over 10v during surges. All my telcom equipment runs off my 12v supply, never had a failure yet.
This is South Africa - our fixed telephone lines in rural areas have all been ripped off by thieves for its copper content - long ago!:scowl: Since our government changed in 1994 to a so-called "democratic" one, law & order has jumped out the window. Attacks on farm houses are quite common and white farmers, especially the elderly and women, are murdered in the most barbaric racist acts you won't be able to imagine! (Obviously the state controls the media, so none of this ever get told in the mainstream press). We make use of cellular/mobile phones for normal communication and then we also have a CB radio system for emergency comms.
Illum
Flashaholic
In an emergency when lights are out and your lights are on you have more to worry about than communications. Back in 2004 when we had the five cat-4 hurricanes in 3 weeks ordeal I had a friend whose family took turns guarding their generator from vandalism. Lights attract trouble, when your local is out of power, the best case scenario is people asking if they can run extension cords over. The worst case scenario is getting looted.
If lights are out and situation normal, go for communications in your preparation. If lights are out, the areas evacuated and you decide to hunker down, be careful when and where you run your lights.
FRITZHID
Flashlight Enthusiast
I both agree and disagree.... Good lighting can attract potential thieves, however if you're like me, I keep my genny, and everything else in my home, secure. Genny is exhausted and fed from outdoors, but is located in secured garage, UPS system is as well.... With sufficient outdoor lighting, most criminals won't choose to do their crimes in bright lighting areas either. (woe betide the creature whom steps into my garden)
Illum
Flashaholic
heh, its hard to keep the outside well lit when there are enough trees around to shade the morning out.
On a side note, you mentioned AGMs being "great for long term backup power." What sort of maintaining device do you use? If at all? Float charge, desulfation, top off, equalization, etc.
FRITZHID
Flashlight Enthusiast
With my setup, the 24 9ah AGMs. are on a 2a float charger system, once a month a shock them for desulfiding, and they are on a once a week automatic semi-deep cycle run to clear any gas buildup, as well as the occasional physical tapping by hand. I also use a multi tap battery monitor to keep a close eye on them all. I'd like to up grade to a lipo setup, however, with the costs and the fact that my UPSs have internal charging systems, this isn't happening any time soon.
FRITZHID
Flashlight Enthusiast
I say lipo as a generalized term meaning any lithium battery, when the time comes I will research all available info and technology.
Any lead/acid battery creates some gas and I err on the side of caution.
My charge voltage is actually variable, from 12.7 to 14.5. The 12v system is used at all times so its not like there is only draw during power outages, that's just when the heaviest draw occurs (upwards of 150A at peak)
I also keep a 1050cca automotive battery for the real deep discharges at high current, prevents overheating of the spade terminals, acts as a "buffer", or like a Cap in an automotive audio system.
Any lead/acid battery creates some gas and I err on the side of caution.
My charge voltage is actually variable, from 12.7 to 14.5. The 12v system is used at all times so its not like there is only draw during power outages, that's just when the heaviest draw occurs (upwards of 150A at peak)
I also keep a 1050cca automotive battery for the real deep discharges at high current, prevents overheating of the spade terminals, acts as a "buffer", or like a Cap in an automotive audio system.
FRITZHID
Flashlight Enthusiast
Yes, the power density/cost of the AGMs is hard to beat, plus they are fairly safe in comparison to any lithium tech.
I'm not really sure of their efficiency %, they are retired medical UPSs, and not cheapo units you'd find kicking around at radioshack. Lol
They are true sinewave with very low ripple/noise, and have high surge capacity. My largest draws 3.1A at idle so it's not the greatest, but when I'm not using one, I disconnect it anyway. They are ment for temporary power during outages, until I get the genny fired up, or during the short lil power hiccups that FLP is known for.
I'm not really sure of their efficiency %, they are retired medical UPSs, and not cheapo units you'd find kicking around at radioshack. Lol
They are true sinewave with very low ripple/noise, and have high surge capacity. My largest draws 3.1A at idle so it's not the greatest, but when I'm not using one, I disconnect it anyway. They are ment for temporary power during outages, until I get the genny fired up, or during the short lil power hiccups that FLP is known for.
My inclination personally would be to switch all the house lights to 12V and power them with some solar panels and batteries. Some people in the USA (not many, but a few) go so far as to live entirely off the electric grid and use a 12V system for all their needs. With enough solar and batteries, one can run lights, water pumps, appliances, power tools, and even an air conditioner (the really big power hog in hot climates).
It is way more expensive currently than grid power for almost all locations and will remain so until battery tech changes significantly. Reliable power requires huge amounts of battery backup. Batt/gen is more cost effective but requires more maintenance. Panels are cheap but they need to be mounted, wired, charge controllers, etc.
FRITZHID
Flashlight Enthusiast
Line power is far more reliable, cost effective and powerful then batt/solar/wind/gen home setups, you start using an ele oven, A/C, ect. you will watch your batteries drop very fast, even most gennys won't keep up with an A\C unit, stove & fridge all at once, and if you're like me (no nat gas line to home) you can damn near forget about a hot shower. currently, a diverse combination of line and backup power is usually your best bet... And least costly.
FRITZHID
Flashlight Enthusiast
Did some digging and some math on my 1440VA opti, seems to be right around the 28% efficiency mark.
FRITZHID
Flashlight Enthusiast
It's likely that I'm looking at the wrong numbers, lol. Just did some digging and that was about the only efficiency % that I could find. It's an opti UPS 1440PS if you'd like to do some looking. That's for my largest, and reviews, says it's one of the best in it's class.
FRITZHID
Flashlight Enthusiast
Unfortunately, I don't have an inline or clamp A-meter large enough to measure the draw at more then about 10% draw..... I really need to invest in a clamp meter. Lol
Do you have a Simpson 260? I just bought a clamp meter attachment on eBay because it came with the carrying case and was cheap. I already have the clamp. You want it? It's AC only obviously as this is a 'dumb' meter. Say $25 shipped? I wouldn't be losing money at that price (some sellers don't know what their stuff is worth!)
Sent from my XT897 using Tapatalk 4
Sent from my XT897 using Tapatalk 4
I believe you have an electronics lab so you likely have RMS measurement capability either through your meters or scope?
You can always use a current shunt (precision small value resistor) in a pinch. They are quite cheap and always good go have around for AC and DC. You can buy unmounted ones from Digikey for a few dollars. I think it is AMIS that has IC versions as well.
You can always use a current shunt (precision small value resistor) in a pinch. They are quite cheap and always good go have around for AC and DC. You can buy unmounted ones from Digikey for a few dollars. I think it is AMIS that has IC versions as well.
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