Upgrading LEDs in older MC-E and P7 lights?

[ErickThakrar]

I'm thinking of doing an upgrade to a couple of lights. A Sunwayman M40C and a Lumapower MVP-P7.
I'm hoping to be able to put an XM-L in to both of them. Any thoughts on whether this would be feasible? Would I get issues with the drivers overdriving the LEDs? Reflector issues?

 

[ErickThakrar]

Nobody has ever done this?

 

[Changchung]

Maybe you have some reflectors problems, the dome of the P7 and the MC-E is bigger, I dont dont if you get a good center focused beam, the rest is just replace the leds, you can try with the new XM-L U3 or maybe some neutral tint...


Sent from my phone with camera with flash and internet on it...

 

[Gunner12]

For the P7, as long as the LED fits and is centered and raised correctly, you should be fine. For the MC-E, it depends on how the LED is wired up. If all the dies are wired in parallel, then you'll be fine with the XM-L swap as well.

I think you can get the XM-Ls on some fairly small MCPCBs (8mm and 10 mm). That and some copper shims could work if the LED isn't being pushed too hard.

 

[ErickThakrar]

Ok, thanks you two. That's useful. I'd forgotten about the MC-E being able to be wired like that. Any idea how I'd find out how it's wired up? Can I tell just by looking at it?

 

[spencer]

The MC-E will likely be mounted on a MCPCB and how the LED is wired is usually done in the board. The only way to find out if it is 4S, 2S2P, or 4P will be to open it up and take some voltage measurements.

Or do a search and see if anybody has posted this information.

 

[ErickThakrar]

Well, crap. I've looked before and haven't seen anybody that did an upgrade on the M40C. That's part of the reason I ended up posting this thread!

 

[ErickThakrar]

This is about the best picture I've been able to get, so far. No markings on the board, of course.

 

[Tiresius]

Why XM-L when you can settle for Cree's latest emitter? It's a quad core MK-R emitter that was recently revealed by Cree. Though, I'm not too sure if it's plausable since they recommend running it at 1.5a max.

 

[ErickThakrar]

Hah! I'd prefer something that wouldn't require rewiring the entire driver

 

[Tiresius]

Hah! I'd prefer something that wouldn't require rewiring the entire driver

Those extra wires don't look too promising I honestly have no idea where they go:thinking:

 

[ErickThakrar]

That's for the two color modes. They go to a ring of 5MM LEDs that sit around the edge of the reflector. They have nothing to do with the MC-E.

 

[spencer]

Now that you have it to this point its easy. Just measure the voltage between the - pad and the + pad. The voltage will tell you how it is wired.

 

[ErickThakrar]

Thanks, Spencer. I'll have to dig out my multimeter.

 

[spencer]

I forgot to mention that the light has to be on when you measure the voltage.

 

[langham]

I would just get the new XM-L2.

 

[mvyrmnd]

If it's wired 2s2p, then the easiest swap is for the 6V XM-L EasyWhite, or the MT-G

If it's 4S, there's a 12V XM-L EasyWhite.

If it's 4P, then the world is your oyster.

 

[datiLED]

This is about the best picture I've been able to get, so far. No markings on the board, of course.

Your LED has all of the dies in parallel. It will be a straight LED swap, without worry about LED voltage. The focus of the LED in the reflector will be your only concern. If the light had the LED wired in parallel, you would have two sets of connections to the board. You only have a + and - connection.

 

[ErickThakrar]

Nice, Dati! Thanks! Yeah, I'm expecting the reflector to be the biggest issue as far as fit and focus goes. Do you have an idea of how much I might need to raise the LED? The dome is a lot smaller on the XM-L compared to the MC-E, correct?

 

[Tiresius]

MK-R or MG-T2 The die sizes in these are close to that of an MC-E. I just don't know when the MK-R will be released. It's like the MC-E but improved.