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vinhnguyen54 D26/P60 XML-U2 Cool White COPPER PCB 1300 Lumen Drop-In SALE THREAD

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Skylumen

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I got one last 1300 lumen deep pill with shallow smooth reflector left. If you do not prefer the shallow smooth I could fit a Light OP on it but this would beam a longer drop in so you will need a Oring to fill in the gap between the bezel and the body. Let me know if you are interested.
 

hellokitty[hk]

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Hi, I have a quick question.
Since the star is copper, can't you just solder the star to the brass pill? It sounds like you are using arctic alumina or arctic silver.
 

Skylumen

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Hi, I have a quick question.
Since the star is copper, can't you just solder the star to the brass pill? It sounds like you are using arctic alumina or arctic silver.

Soldering the star with LED to the pill requires lots of heat. That would destroy the LED for sure.

If I solder the star onto the pill without the LED then I can't center the LED with the reflector.

If I do mange to center the star in the reflector I still cant flow the LED on top without everything drifting around.

All the extra heat is really no good for me, the led, or centering the LED in the reflector.

Plus I sodler fill my pill. TOo much heat and the solder will flow out.

In short too much heat destroy everything and/or shift everything around and is dangerous for me.
 

tobrien

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i got mine yesterday and started playing around with it and WOW!!!


THIS THING IS PERFECT! perfect tint and lots of output (LOP reflector, btw)

thanks a lot vinh! did you get what I sent you, as well? :D
 

hellokitty[hk]

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Soldering the star with LED to the pill requires lots of heat. That would destroy the LED for sure.

If I solder the star onto the pill without the LED then I can't center the LED with the reflector.

If I do mange to center the star in the reflector I still cant flow the LED on top without everything drifting around.

All the extra heat is really no good for me, the led, or centering the LED in the reflector.

Plus I sodler fill my pill. TOo much heat and the solder will flow out.

In short too much heat destroy everything and/or shift everything around and is dangerous for me.
Hi thanks for the response.
I understand that it would be a lot more work and I don't know exactly how you're making your drop-ins and in what order you do things so this may not work out so easily but I would imagine that using a higher temperature lead-free solder like an SnAgCu solder will give you a good ~20C+ temperature window over SnPb 63/37.
 

Skylumen

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Hi thanks for the response.
I understand that it would be a lot more work and I don't know exactly how you're making your drop-ins and in what order you do things so this may not work out so easily but I would imagine that using a higher temperature lead-free solder like an SnAgCu solder will give you a good ~20C+ temperature window over SnPb 63/37.

Are we talking about the solder used for solder fill?
 

tobrien

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Remember. To wap the drop. Tight. With foil. Love. The sc31 too! :)

I did ;)

thanks for your excellent products! I'm gonna show my officers tonight the module running in a FM Cerakoted orange Cooly (26650 IMR in the host) and I can tell you right now they'll be blown away
 

Skylumen

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I did ;)

thanks for your excellent products! I'm gonna show my officers tonight the module running in a FM Cerakoted orange Cooly (26650 IMR in the host) and I can tell you right now they'll be blown away

Lovin your SC31 more and more! I love Zebralights.
 

hellokitty[hk]

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Are we talking about the solder used for solder fill?
I don't know in what order you put together you components but as a general guideline I would solder the first components with a lead-free solder and then that will give you some working space where SnPB 63/37 solder will melt but lead-free will not.
Again I don't know exactly how you make these but I think that it would be possible to solder the star on.
Either way these look like great work.
 
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