Vital Gear switch replacement tutorials.
Vital Gear Switch Replacement Tutorials
For the vast majority of enthusiasts, the aftermarket switch option will be the go - to method. We have switch upgrade kits available.
Original switch option (Written by lightknot for replacement of a stock Vital Gear switch with another stock switch.)
This swap is very easy. Only one tool is needed, a pair of round nose pliers or snap ring pliers. A pair of snap ring pliers was used for this tutorial. (A big screwdriver or even a paper clip will work.)
Unscrew tailcap/ switch assemby.
Use snap ring pliers to remove brass retaining ring from inside the tailcap.
Push on outside end of rubber boot and the switch will pop out.
Reverse the procedure to install new switch.
Notice that the switch is sunken down below the threads of the tailcap:
Install the retaining ring manually. Make sure that the switch is seated properly in the boot and the brass ring before tightening. The circuit board of the switch must make contact with the brass ring. This is necessary to properly complete the electrical path. This step is not difficult, the switch will seat naturally and look like the picture below.
Then tighten with the snap ring pliers. Do not over tighten.
Screw the tailcap assembly back onto the body tube, assemble the head, and test.
Aftermarket switch option: (Written by nein166, reposted with permission, and edited by lightknot on 04/11/20. For replacement of the stock VG switch with an aftermarket 10mm reverse clicky switch.
1. Take the new aftermarket switch and bend the tabs out straight and very quickly solder a short spring on to the bottom metal plate of the switch..
2. Next, using a Dremel or other rotary tool, enlarge the hole that the rubber boot fits in. The clicky is slightly fatter than the original micro-switch. Once the light is together the grind is not visible.
3. Insert the boot, it should still be really tight.
4. Press the clicky in there, it's going to be really tight.
5. Screw in the brass ring and screw on the tail cap to the body. Don't try clicking it with out the light together since the clicky could pop apart. Maybe some glue along the tabs would keep this from happening. But as long as the batteries are in it should be fine.
More info will become available as testing progresses. Comments welcome.
Edit by Lightknot: By far the hardest part of this conversion is soldering the spring to the switch without melting the switch. Soldering skills are required!
Vital Gear Switch Replacement Tutorials
For the vast majority of enthusiasts, the aftermarket switch option will be the go - to method. We have switch upgrade kits available.
Original switch option (Written by lightknot for replacement of a stock Vital Gear switch with another stock switch.)
This swap is very easy. Only one tool is needed, a pair of round nose pliers or snap ring pliers. A pair of snap ring pliers was used for this tutorial. (A big screwdriver or even a paper clip will work.)
Unscrew tailcap/ switch assemby.
Use snap ring pliers to remove brass retaining ring from inside the tailcap.
Push on outside end of rubber boot and the switch will pop out.
Reverse the procedure to install new switch.
Notice that the switch is sunken down below the threads of the tailcap:
Install the retaining ring manually. Make sure that the switch is seated properly in the boot and the brass ring before tightening. The circuit board of the switch must make contact with the brass ring. This is necessary to properly complete the electrical path. This step is not difficult, the switch will seat naturally and look like the picture below.
Then tighten with the snap ring pliers. Do not over tighten.
Screw the tailcap assembly back onto the body tube, assemble the head, and test.
Aftermarket switch option: (Written by nein166, reposted with permission, and edited by lightknot on 04/11/20. For replacement of the stock VG switch with an aftermarket 10mm reverse clicky switch.
1. Take the new aftermarket switch and bend the tabs out straight and very quickly solder a short spring on to the bottom metal plate of the switch..
2. Next, using a Dremel or other rotary tool, enlarge the hole that the rubber boot fits in. The clicky is slightly fatter than the original micro-switch. Once the light is together the grind is not visible.
3. Insert the boot, it should still be really tight.
4. Press the clicky in there, it's going to be really tight.
5. Screw in the brass ring and screw on the tail cap to the body. Don't try clicking it with out the light together since the clicky could pop apart. Maybe some glue along the tabs would keep this from happening. But as long as the batteries are in it should be fine.
More info will become available as testing progresses. Comments welcome.
Edit by Lightknot: By far the hardest part of this conversion is soldering the spring to the switch without melting the switch. Soldering skills are required!
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