What's your ideal headlamp?

krushed

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Aug 14, 2007
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I've been interested in what would happen if you took the Petzl Tikka XP, replaced the Lux I LED with a CREE or SSC LED and then ran it with lithiums. I think the upgraded LED should easily be able to handle the higher discharge of the lithiums. The only problem then is that your light might be too bright.
 

paulr

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Mar 29, 2003
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1aa is certainly the sweetest battery setup for just about anything. So I'd go for the Ray-o-vac or Zebralight.
 

mdocod

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Nov 9, 2005
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COLORado spRINGs
+1 on argo HP, stock it's 70% of my satisfaction, most other headlamps I have read about or tried barely meet 50% satisfaction level...

SSCing it will make it 85% of what I want out of a headlamp.

a 3rd lower level would be nice for after the upgrade.

To get to 100% satisfaction, I need a perfectly flat regulated, 1x18650 powered, 3 level output (20mA, 200mA, 800mA) SSC with a smooth wide spot diffused to a very wide even spill. Operation must be by 1 reliable button to cycle through modes with. And I'd like the 18650 on the back of my head to balance the weight better.
 

Coop

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Jan 6, 2006
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Tilburg, the Netherlands (perfectly reachable by U
For me the ultimate headlamp would have:

- Very low level red led (to perserve nightvision)
- Low level white (for reading)
- Medium level white (for general use)
- High level white flood
- High level white spot
- Ultra high level flood & spot

How do you get all these modes in one headlamp? I'm thinking something like the Stenlight, with a flood optic on one led and a spot optic on the other. And add 2 white leds and a red led, and ofcourse a nice switch/interface to access all mentioned levels.
And I'd prefer a behind the head batterypack, to keep it balanced a bit.
 

VidPro

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Apr 7, 2004
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Lost In Space
Ideal for me is:

3W of possible power, luxIII is fine, cree more efficient
levels Full Med Low and soooo low its like 1/3rd of a 5mm led
Boost, having a 30sec boost button is cool, from any level up 1 level
10* 25* and 50* focus or diffusion changable with instant method, could be done best with correct zoom optics
water resistant
lightweight li-ion power on back, so weight is balanced, 2400ma minimum. li-ion 40% lighter than ni-mhy or alkie
over voltage protection, no regulation for extensive declining runtime. why run out ever, drift off instead
3 strap headband, so the straps can be very loose, make the top one removable with velcro, for them that dont want one
tiltable without Clicks
padded properly so the hunk areas are soft, yet dont decompose from acidic skin oils.
Metal heat sinc, or simple lightweight metal body connected to led base for heat removal.
3oz total weight
All low profile, so it doesnt look like some contraption on your head.
AND
when you pull it off your head, it folds up and forms a hand held flashlight.

did i miss anything :)
oh i forgot the high brightness tritium locator, so you can find it in the dark, like the 3mmx23mm one
 
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whippoorwill

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Oct 7, 2006
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Heart Of Dixie
Re: Which headlamp do I want??

Another awesome headlamp is the 1AA Rayovac Sportsman Extreme headlamp available at Wal-Mart. $18.83. Includes a flip over diffuser to turn the luxeon into a floodlight.

+1. This headlamp has a few shortcomings, but it is real close to the perfect headlamp. I use a PT Eos when hunting but this one is now my backup.
 

matthewdanger

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Jan 13, 2004
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Indy
My ideal headlamp has a narrow long throwing beam, a built in diffuser, and switch that has 4 rotary positions with a push button (like the Gladius). The 1st postion would be lock-out and the other three positions operate like the Gladius in constant mode where it remembers your setting - press and hold to ramp output up or down. That way the headlamp would have three completely customizable settings. The emitter would be a 3W Cree. It would, of course, have a low enough low power setting.

In the mean time, I use a PT Quad or EOS. Both are great lights.
 
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peteybaby

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Feb 10, 2007
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North Vancouver, BC, Canada
- 2AA batts in the main housing
- power jack to plug in pocketable or belt-clipped li-ion or other big battery pack
- couple of different battery packs available. "big" and "huge" capacity.
- no strap over the head
- nothing behind the head (so I can read in my tent)
- 1 Cree or better, with beam shape similar to stock Apex
- 2nd Cree or better, with diffuser or something, aimed a tad lower than 1st LED.
- Like Apex, separate switches for the two LEDs
- power levels = max, medium, and low (lower than Apex's low) or better yet, knob for infinite adjustment
- can turn on both LEDs simultaneously, no time limit
- heatsink (don't care how much the headlamp sticks out of my forehead)
- power-saver mode
- red lens can be slid in front of LEDs
- helmet mountable with adaptor
 

Gaffle

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Mar 10, 2006
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Location
Garden City, MI
Tikka Xp is a very nice AAA headlamp. The lowest setting may still be too bright, but then you get the diffuser kickin for more flood. Gets rid of the huge hotspot.

Now, my ultimate light would be a Myo Xp with regulation!! I love having both the spot and the flood. Love it, love it, love it. If I had a bit more brightness, and some kick arse regulation, I would be very very happy.

Then again, if I mod it with a P4, and break out some LSD NiMH (with that real flat discharge rate)....:whistle:
 

Tiny

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Sep 24, 2005
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I would like a headlamp with
- an integrated battery case, able to use all types of AA batteries (alkaline, nimh, lithium).
- Uses a Cree or the latest Luxeon Rebel with a MOP reflector for both throw and flood.
- Regulated output (This is extremely important to me)
- Runtime of about 2-3hours on high.
- Has 3 light settings plus a strobe flashing mode , and I prefer the lowest light setting to be about 5-10lumens to really preserve battery life.
- No top headstrap
- An adaptor to allow it to fit on bike helmets (if not, I'll just cut the straps and lash it on my helmet anyway).

Familiar? Basically it's a Fenix L2D RB100 with the battery case in parallel, shifted to one side. FENIX ARE YOU LISTENING?? :p
 
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