Zebralight SC52 Owner's Thread

[Pretbek]

I received my SC52 today and this light is TINY! (I know the ironic part of using large capital letters for that)

I don't know of ZebraLights past quality issues, but it says it has a 12 month warranty and it looks and feels well built. The light is very little and light and the length of it is even smaller then my last few single 123A lights! Amazing how small and bright these things are getting.

The battery level w/ the 4 flashes is handy and I get that. I have read the instructions several times, but I don't understand the special settings with 6 presses that doesn't seem to do anything. The regular light settings seem to work goo though. I'm probably not understanding what to do and don't understand what other settings are available that it can remember or use or what order they would go in.

When you doubleclick when the light is on, the light switches between sub-levels: between H1 and H2, M1 and M2, or L1 and L2.

When you doubleclick 6 times in a row in quick succession, the 7th doubleclick and onward (lots of doubleclicking!) will be rotating through the sub-sublevels: For example on Medium that would be between 12 and 25 Lumen, on Low that would be from 0.01 to 0.06 to 0.34 Lumen and to 0.01 again.
The sub-sublevel that you leave the light at for about 7 seconds, or leave it at when you turn the light off with a single click, will be your new Level2 setting.

 

[passive101]

When you doubleclick when the light is on, the light switches between sub-levels: between H1 and H2, M1 and M2, or L1 and L2.

When you doubleclick 6 times in a row in quick succession, the 7th doubleclick and onward (lots of doubleclicking!) will be rotating through the sub-sublevels: For example on Medium that would be between 12 and 25 Lumen, on Low that would be from 0.01 to 0.06 to 0.34 Lumen and to 0.01 again.
The sub-sublevel that you leave the light at for about 7 seconds, or leave it at when you turn the light off with a single click, will be your new Level2 setting.

Ok this makes more sense to me. Only the sub level can be changed so the regular level 1 always stays the same?

 

[moozooh]

Yes. H1, M1, and L1 are always the same, H2, M2, and L2 are programmable.

 

[Nake]

This is my first experience with the recessed switch, and I find I like the original swich better. I have to use my thumb's finger nail to operate it. I wonder how long the rubber will hold up to the hardness of a finger nail.

If I try to use my thumb the finger nail catches on the body of the light and prevents the required pressure for turn on.

 

[bodhran]

Got home from work this morning and found that I had a new flashlight waiting. The grip rings on the body don't look bad at all in reality. A nice white tint with a centered emitter. Now I just have to wait until dark.

 

[Fireclaw18]

This is my first experience with the recessed switch, and I find I like the original swich better. I have to use my thumb's finger nail to operate it. I wonder how long the rubber will hold up to the hardness of a finger nail.

If I try to use my thumb the finger nail catches on the body of the light and prevents the required pressure for turn on.

You must have long finger nails. I haven't had this issue with the recessed switches on my SC80, SC600 or SC52. For me the switch is a huge improvement over the SC51 as it is far less likely to accidentally turn on in the pocket.

 

[Nake]

You must have long finger nails. I haven't had this issue with the recessed switches on my SC80, SC600 or SC52. For me the switch is a huge improvement over the SC51 as it is far less likely to accidentally turn on in the pocket.

Yea, I keep my thumb nails a few mm's longer than the rest. Comes in handy for things like recessed buttons on watches and such. Good for picking your nose too.

After I posted, I tried with my index finger and that works okay.

 

[passive101]

This is my first experience with the recessed switch, and I find I like the original swich better. I have to use my thumb's finger nail to operate it. I wonder how long the rubber will hold up to the hardness of a finger nail.

If I try to use my thumb the finger nail catches on the body of the light and prevents the required pressure for turn on.

If only your thumb nail fits into the light, I'm guessing you have much larger hands then I do. Would this light be to small for you to comfortably use in most situations? How would you use it with gloves on? Your usage could be different then mine as well

 

[Nake]

If only your thumb nail fits into the light, I'm guessing you have much larger hands then I do. Would this light be to small for you to comfortably use in most situations? How would you use it with gloves on?

I got it to work with my thumb if I put my nail on the stainless ring. Works okay with gloves. I think part of my problem was that I was used to the light pressure of the other switches, and wasn't pushing hard enough. Everything is good now.

 

[tonkem]

I got it to work with my thumb if I put my nail on the stainless ring. Works okay with gloves. I think part of my problem was that I was used to the light pressure of the other switches, and wasn't pushing hard enough. Everything is good now.

I use the first finger to depress, with the thumb under the head. that keeps the nail from having to activate it. My thumb must be too large as well, to fit in the well, but I have used the nail to activate many many times, speaking of my SC80 with same switch configuration, with no adverse appearance to the boot.

 

[roadkill1109]

I use the first finger to depress, with the thumb under the head. that keeps the nail from having to activate it. My thumb must be too large as well, to fit in the well, but I have used the nail to activate many many times, speaking of my SC80 with same switch configuration, with no adverse appearance to the boot.

not a good idea using your nail to activate it! eventually your nail will damage the rubber and goodbye waterproof light!

May i suggest holding it up in your hand then activate it using your ring finger or pinky as shown below. (Sorry guys, I dont own the SC52 yet, this is my good ol' Lumintop L1A/L1C EDC thrower.)

 

[chaoss]

Had mine for a few days now and it is really growing on me.
FINALLY!, i have a light with a TRUE moonlight mode and it's not even on the lowest setting.
This one will see some serious EDC time (sorry McGizmo), no regrets with the purchase and i will buy another when a neutral/warm tint LED is offered.

Oh, and NO problems with it at all.

 

[roadkill1109]

Had mine for a few days now and it is really growing on me.
FINALLY!, i have a light with a TRUE moonlight mode and it's not even on the lowest setting.
This one will see some serious EDC time (sorry McGizmo), no regrets with the purchase and i will buy another when a neutral/warm tint LED is offered.

Oh, and NO problems with it at all.

Congrats! Hope to own my first ZL soon! I hope the stocks come in!

 

[nanucq]

Just received from Neolumen.eu :twothumbs
It's my third ZL (picture below) and it's always amazing to see how well machinized they are. This SC52 is really a little winner, lot of light with a 14500, lowest low very low (useless ?) and a great beam for an EDC. Emitter is perfectly centered and anodyzing is first class (even if greener). Knurling can look weird, but it's really very effective, handling is fantastic !!!
Considering it's an XML, tint is great with a creamy hotspot, a yellowish corona and a cold spill. It's not as pure white as my SC80, but it's definitively less greener than my other XML (SC600 and PA40)

A family portrait:

And a poor beamshot test (will do better later):
SC600 (H2 200 lm) / SC80 (H1 220 lm) / SC52 (H2 172 lm)

 

[energythoughts]

Does everyone have a small section on their threads that are flattened? or is it just me? Not sure if that is by design to create a little tighter fit for the cap, or if it's just a slip-up in manufacturing.. macro shots below:

 

[Fireclaw18]

Does everyone have a small section on their threads that are flattened? or is it just me? Not sure if that is by design to create a little tighter fit for the cap, or if it's just a slip-up in manufacturing.. macro shots below:

That appears to be a manufacturing defect. I just checked the threads on my SC52 and they are uniform all the way around. They don't have any flattened sections.

 

[nanucq]

That appears to be a manufacturing defect. I just checks the threads on my SC52 and they are uniform all the way around. They don't have any flattened sections.

The same for me, uniforms threads, sorry.

 

[passive101]

My threads are regular and not like that as well. I'd just send the pics to ZebraLight and I bet they send you a new one and then you just mail yours back or something. That's a bummer though. I wonder if it would even effect anything though?

 

[Fireclaw18]

My threads are regular and not like that as well. I'd just send the pics to ZebraLight and I bet they send you a new one and then you just mail yours back or something. That's a bummer though. I wonder if it would even effect anything though?

It's a defect, but it might be a harmless one. I doubt the flattened area is going to affect the light. If it isn't going to affect the light it's probably not worth the effort to RMA it.

 

[CVLPA]

Just got mine delivered to Thailand and could not be happier with it! Running it on 14500s. a little bit suspicous about the lowest low. Can it be seen in the dark of the night even?