Zebralight SC600 Mk II L2 (XM-L2, 1x18650) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO+

Mr Floppy

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and the built-in circuit features (meaning you could safely run unprotected).

Speaking of which, I pretty much have a stash of unprotected 18650 cells I get from old battery packs. I don't have the specs for many of them but what would the current draw be like for max? Of all the cells I have, only the Sony green US18650GR 2200mAh has a defined max discharge of 2C but I wouldn't want to do 3A for a long time on harvested cells, nor let it hit the 2.7V cut-off (I think the Sony is 2.75V).
 

roadkill1109

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Would it be better to use a high-drain Panasonic 2900mAh cell rather than the higher capacity Panasonic 3400mAh cell? I plan to go unprotected, but would want to know which battery is better. High-Drain cells or high-capacity cells.
 

selfbuilt

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Old laptop pulls are unlikely to be in great shape, so may not perform so well on higher levels.

For those planning to run mainly on max, cells that better support high drain would likely be good over typical high capacity.
 

18650

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Greetings: Another excellent review. You guys really rock. I came to this review via the Fenix PD-35 review. I realized that the Fenix steps down to lower lumen by a timer. This was not going to work for my needs. I am a cyclist and want a self contained lights (no wires) that stay bright. Almost all bike lights have wires or are not very powerful or are very, very expensive. This light seems to be a little pricey but the size and brightness win out. Please explain it's step down process. I believe most lights like these have some type of step down to prevent overheating. Since most of my cycling with lights is in the colder months my current batteries never get too hot. This light also seems to have both a nice flood and throw combination. Any thoughts for cycling?? Thanks Charlie

I don't see what the issue with the stepdown is. I'd reckon even 500 lumens would be way overkill for most cycling. At that level you'd seriously have to worry about blinding other people on the road.
 

Overclocker

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I don't see what the issue with the stepdown is. I'd reckon even 500 lumens would be way overkill for most cycling. At that level you'd seriously have to worry about blinding other people on the road.

dude. off-road. 500 lumens isn't gonna cut it.

the thermal regulation is just fantastic on these new zebralights! since cooling is good it doesn't throttle down very much. but personally i prefer the H600w Mk2 beam pattern for cycling

and there's no sudden off that would put you in a dangerous situation. it steps down to MED, then eventually to Low, so even if you didn't bring spare cells theres still enough light to get you home
 
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m1ke

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the thermal regulation is just fantastic on these new zebralights!
It's quite remarkable. I had my light on max for a few minutes, tail-standing on my desk. I picked it up and within a few seconds of my hand absorbing some of the heat, it began to visibly step back up in brightness.
 

Overclocker

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It's quite remarkable. I had my light on max for a few minutes, tail-standing on my desk. I picked it up and within a few seconds of my hand absorbing some of the heat, it began to visibly step back up in brightness.


yep! was testing it the other day. sc600 tailstanding. lux meter beside it. when i placed a fan on the zebra it started stepping up within like 4 seconds

here's another test. insert an almost depleted cell into the zebra. you still get almost full brightness. now take the same cell and insert it into something else, say a Fenix or Nitecore. so dim it's unusable

these newest zebralight drivers are just so far ahead of the competition right now. all the others are still on buck drivers that on 950-lumen lights DO NOT STAY IN REGULATION for any decent amount of time even if restarted. and are still using timer based stepdowns that kick in even when frozen
 

18650

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dude. off-road. 500 lumens isn't gonna cut it.

the thermal regulation is just fantastic on these new zebralights! since cooling is good it doesn't throttle down very much. but personally i prefer the H600w Mk2 beam pattern for cycling

and there's no sudden off that would put you in a dangerous situation. it steps down to MED, then eventually to Low, so even if you didn't bring spare cells theres still enough light to get you home

Dude, I said road. I don't know what you do in the woods.
 

balto charlie

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It's hard to say without someone directly testing it - under the same climatic conditions. The max output step-down process here is as finely-tuned to heat build up as any light I've ever seen though, so I doubt it would cause any issues for you. And given how bright the light is, you may find yourself getting by just fine on one of the lower Hi modes (that don't step down).

And :welcome:

Thanks for the info and the welcoming.
 

balto charlie

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I don't see what the issue with the stepdown is. I'd reckon even 500 lumens would be way overkill for most cycling. At that level you'd seriously have to worry about blinding other people on the road.

500 L, to me is not overkill. It works but by no way is it too much light. When you are riding fast in traffic you need to see AND BE SEEN. 500 lumen can get lost is a sea of car lights.
 

balto charlie

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dude. off-road. 500 lumens isn't gonna cut it.

the thermal regulation is just fantastic on these new zebralights! since cooling is good it doesn't throttle down very much. but personally i prefer the H600w Mk2 beam pattern for cycling

and there's no sudden off that would put you in a dangerous situation. it steps down to MED, then eventually to Low, so even if you didn't bring spare cells theres still enough light to get you home

Good to hear thermal reg is excellent. I figure that the wind generated from riding should keep this light on high.
H600w Mk2 beam pattern, I'll have to check this one out. Is this a different light altogether or a different version of the Zebra 600 we were discussing. I like the size and lumen of the Z600.
 

T0rch

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Anyone else have ones with just a dramatic difference between the battery cap and the body? I finally received the replacement for my original order that didn't work right and it's a pretty big difference, almost green.

z6Br66T.jpg
 

neutralwhite

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that is different.
looks ok though..

Anyone else have ones with just a dramatic difference between the battery cap and the body? I finally received the replacement for my original order that didn't work right and it's a pretty big difference, almost green.

z6Br66T.jpg
 

m1ke

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Anyone else have ones with just a dramatic difference between the battery cap and the body? I finally received the replacement for my original order that didn't work right and it's a pretty big difference, almost green.

z6Br66T.jpg
Mine's the same. Doesn't bother me, though.
 

neutralwhite

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I have 2 2600mAh Keeppowers, and I used one with the light on high, when it dropped to medium it volts was measured at 3.25. is this ok?.
is it OK to go that low before recharge?.
usually when it gets to medium its time to recharge.
hope this is all ok.

thanks.
 

RIX TUX

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500 L, to me is not overkill. It works but by no way is it too much light. When you are riding fast in traffic you need to see AND BE SEEN. 500 lumen can get lost is a sea of car lights.
If you need 1000 lumens all the time you better be riding something with an engine and an alternator.
 

AmperSand

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I just discovered something a little cool in the UI.
When you set your low mode to L1 or L2, it also sets that low mode as the low beacon. So if you have your mode set to L1 it flashes the brighter low beacon as L1 is configured brighter. If you set your Low mode to L2 it changes the low beacon to whatever you have L2 set to also! A little extra versatility from an already extremely versatile light!
 

neutralwhite

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hi hey I did wonder that, as I noticed the other night beacon flashed real low, and another time it flashed higher,...so that was it.
thanks, now I know what it was. thanks.....what a cool UI. will remember that.


I just discovered something a little cool in the UI.
When you set your low mode to L1 or L2, it also sets that low mode as the low beacon. So if you have your mode set to L1 it flashes the brighter low beacon as L1 is configured brighter. If you set your Low mode to L2 it changes the low beacon to whatever you have L2 set to also! A little extra versatility from an already extremely versatile light!
 
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