Hi Chaps
I just finished modding my Cateye double shot...again. I modded it to have K2s before.
It uses the stock controller still at 700mA
Discalimer this hasn't been tested off the bench yet....modify yours at your own risk!!!
THE BATS IN ME CAM DIED...I'll edit and upload missing piccies later. Phots will be hyperlinked to keep the detail for you...and I'm lazy.
Open the lamp by undoing the 2 allen bolts on the front. Pull the Housing apart. The glass may fall out so be careful. It has a rubber gasket either side of the glass.
carefully prise out the optics.
Piccy if innards
Piccy of Optics
To remove the LEDs undo all the screws inside.
remove the rectacugular piece of plastic ontop of the LEDs
The LEDs can now be liftwed up on their wires (You can feed a little bit through to a point by pushing the cable into the rear of the light).
NOTE THE CABLE COLOURS AND LED ORIENTATION...YOU WILL HAVE TO DO THIS FOR THE LUX 3 NOT K2'S.
Unsolder LEDs and remove figure 8 pkastic piece
my figure 8 is demelled for the K2 corners....the seoul should fit in fine with out mods.
keep these peices and do what you want with the LEDs
Half way
I learned from my mistakeds on the K2 mod, and made it a bit easier for myself.
at this point the bats in my camera died...so I resorted to the camera in my phone....sorry about the quality.
you need a small cable tie for the next part.
straighten the kink out of the legs the LEDs
Put the LED in the holes in the figure 8. the lead stub with the little notch denotes the side of the cathode. with the figure 8 on its side the left LED notch should be down and the right LEDs notch at the top as you look at it.
now you need to do as this piccys shows
note the notches ib the figure 8s side at the bottome and the bendy wire at the top. put the rectangular piece over the LEDs as shown and put a cable tie around it all to hold it all together temporarily. solter the bendy wore to the leads and bend it dow a touch so it won't t toiuch the inside of the metal housing.
the back of the LED needs bonding to the housing, I put two layers of Sekisui #5760 double side thermal tape i got off ebay. make sure the slug is covered so metal to metal doesn't occur. I figured tape would stop metal to metal, where compound could squeze out the way.
solder the cables to the correct terminals (i said note what went where )
I used my meter on diode check to test the connections as it has enough juice to light the LED. touch the bar when testing as this will test your solder joints too. I had to test the LEDs individually as the meter would only light one at a time. If the meter trick doesn't work Don't apply full power...maybe a fraction of second. The KEDs aren't heat sinled at this point.
gets bit fiddlier now. remove the cable tie. the plastic pieces will come away from the LEDs.
Pope the figure 8 ibn the housing with the wire cut outs down. carefully lower the LEDs in with out them sticking where they shouldn't. pop the smaller plastic piece on top.
screw together to make sure the LED is against the body. power on.
hopefully it should have lit.
pop the optics in and put the front on.
leave it on for a few mins to makes sure the LEDs don't pop due to bad thermnal bonding.
The results of mine.
It is a load brighter (than my k2s...which were a bit brighter than lux3) it looks brighter than my stock triple...not as floody...but the double only has narrow optics compared to 1 narrow and 2 wide on the triple.
the beam is ringy....but no worse than stock I would say. Cateyes optics are a bit ringy on white walls.
Hope that makes sense. Feel free to ask anything. These haven't been roadtested....so if you do this. the results look good.....but untested long term. Its not my fault if you break something hehe
Might do my triple tomorrow, if there are any major differences I'll say here
Stu
I just finished modding my Cateye double shot...again. I modded it to have K2s before.
It uses the stock controller still at 700mA
Discalimer this hasn't been tested off the bench yet....modify yours at your own risk!!!
THE BATS IN ME CAM DIED...I'll edit and upload missing piccies later. Phots will be hyperlinked to keep the detail for you...and I'm lazy.
Open the lamp by undoing the 2 allen bolts on the front. Pull the Housing apart. The glass may fall out so be careful. It has a rubber gasket either side of the glass.
carefully prise out the optics.
Piccy if innards
Piccy of Optics
To remove the LEDs undo all the screws inside.
remove the rectacugular piece of plastic ontop of the LEDs
The LEDs can now be liftwed up on their wires (You can feed a little bit through to a point by pushing the cable into the rear of the light).
NOTE THE CABLE COLOURS AND LED ORIENTATION...YOU WILL HAVE TO DO THIS FOR THE LUX 3 NOT K2'S.
Unsolder LEDs and remove figure 8 pkastic piece
my figure 8 is demelled for the K2 corners....the seoul should fit in fine with out mods.
keep these peices and do what you want with the LEDs
Half way
I learned from my mistakeds on the K2 mod, and made it a bit easier for myself.
at this point the bats in my camera died...so I resorted to the camera in my phone....sorry about the quality.
you need a small cable tie for the next part.
straighten the kink out of the legs the LEDs
Put the LED in the holes in the figure 8. the lead stub with the little notch denotes the side of the cathode. with the figure 8 on its side the left LED notch should be down and the right LEDs notch at the top as you look at it.
now you need to do as this piccys shows
note the notches ib the figure 8s side at the bottome and the bendy wire at the top. put the rectangular piece over the LEDs as shown and put a cable tie around it all to hold it all together temporarily. solter the bendy wore to the leads and bend it dow a touch so it won't t toiuch the inside of the metal housing.
the back of the LED needs bonding to the housing, I put two layers of Sekisui #5760 double side thermal tape i got off ebay. make sure the slug is covered so metal to metal doesn't occur. I figured tape would stop metal to metal, where compound could squeze out the way.
solder the cables to the correct terminals (i said note what went where )
I used my meter on diode check to test the connections as it has enough juice to light the LED. touch the bar when testing as this will test your solder joints too. I had to test the LEDs individually as the meter would only light one at a time. If the meter trick doesn't work Don't apply full power...maybe a fraction of second. The KEDs aren't heat sinled at this point.
gets bit fiddlier now. remove the cable tie. the plastic pieces will come away from the LEDs.
Pope the figure 8 ibn the housing with the wire cut outs down. carefully lower the LEDs in with out them sticking where they shouldn't. pop the smaller plastic piece on top.
screw together to make sure the LED is against the body. power on.
hopefully it should have lit.
pop the optics in and put the front on.
leave it on for a few mins to makes sure the LEDs don't pop due to bad thermnal bonding.
The results of mine.
It is a load brighter (than my k2s...which were a bit brighter than lux3) it looks brighter than my stock triple...not as floody...but the double only has narrow optics compared to 1 narrow and 2 wide on the triple.
the beam is ringy....but no worse than stock I would say. Cateyes optics are a bit ringy on white walls.
Hope that makes sense. Feel free to ask anything. These haven't been roadtested....so if you do this. the results look good.....but untested long term. Its not my fault if you break something hehe
Might do my triple tomorrow, if there are any major differences I'll say here
Stu
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