007 strange behavior

My 007 is behaving strangely in Power Level 2. Has anyone else noticed this?

When switching from PL1 to PL2, PL2 starts dimmer, then gradually brightens over the next three to four seconds. This is clearly noticeable to the naked eye when illuminating a close surface -- I can see the hotspot growing in size and brightness (the light meter says by 1.5 f-stops). This does not happen when switching from PL3 to PL2, nor on any other setting.

Can you try this, watch it get brighter, then turn it off and try again while it is still warm.
Just a thought that maybe it needs to warm up???
I just tried mine and didn't notice it ( significantly anyway).

Cold or warm makes no difference.

Dave?

The day after DaFabricata swapped an XPG into my 007 I noticed a stange issue. When I went up in levels everything was fine, but when I went from level six to five it would actually go down to level four brightness. When I would then go from level five to four the level would stay the same since I was already at level four brightness:shrug:

When all else fails do a PU3. Let it do it's callibration and see if it's still acting strange. It worked for my issue and has been fine since.

^^^^I guess your explanation sounds reasonable since the 007 was calibrated based on either a P4 or the Cree LED Data used. The XP-G has higher limits and lower power consumption so it stands to reason that the PU3 worked for you.

A Power-Up 3 did not fix my 007's behavior described in the first post, but it did reduce the brightness difference from 1.5 f/stops to 1.0 f/stop. It seems to ramp at the same rate as before the PU-3, so it reaches full brightness faster -- about 2 seconds instead of 3 to 4 seconds.

The brightness of the LED will also be affected by how much its internal resistance changes as it warms up. Every type of LED is different, and every type of LED package cools the emitter die more or less effectively. I have some new GDuP boards I've been working with, and they recalibrate themselves every time they turn on, if they think they need to -- if I let the light get hot and then turn it off/on again, I can see the GDuP driver adjust itself to compensate for the lower resistance of the hot LED. The same happens if I calibrate it inside a cool building and then go outside when it's hot outside. Kinda neat actually, but also a very effective demonstration of the temperature-sensitive-resistance concept.

The STFu driver may be smart enough to monitor LED resistance in realtime, in which case what I said has no bearing, but I don't know its exact specs.