With flashlights, do you prefer battery commonality or variety?

HighlanderNorth · Jul 18, 2012

When you buy flashlights, as well as other smaller and medium sized electronic equipment, do you prefer to have all of your equipment run on the same battery type, or maybe just a couple battery types? Or do you want some variety, so that you will always be able to find batteries that will fit some of your equipment?

When I bought my first 2 LED lights, I bought them based on their specs and modes. I didnt even consider battery commonality, so each of the 1st 2 lights ran on different batteries. Then I read one person say that they try to buy stuff that all runs on 1 battery type, so that they dont have to worry about stocking many different types and sizes of batteries. I thought about that, and it does make some sense.

But then I realized that the most popular battery types for LED flashlights, are actually among the LEAST popular, and least well known battery types available locally. Most people have never heard of an 18650 or a CR123. I dont know of a single local store that carries 18650's.

But most flashlights run on these 2 battery types. So I started thinking that maybe it would be best to buy a few of the 18650 and CR123 flashlights, but also to hedge my bets by buying lights that run on the most commonly available and well known batteries like AA's and AAA's. That way, I can always find batteries come hell or high water(not that I expect hell and/or high water).

If hell or high water did come, and electricity was lost, then you'd be screwed if you owned a Zebralight SC600 that only runs on 18650's, because you couldnt recharge it unless you had a REALLY powerful solar charger, because most solar chargers will take a long time to charge a hi-cap 18650, if ever. Or if you had a generator. Plus, not all stores carry CR123's, and the ones that do only have a few of them in stock at any time, because not many people buy them.

So I have a nice mixture of AA, AAA, CR123, 18650 lights. That way I've always got a power source for at least a few lights, even if I cant get batteries for the others.

Whats your logic when it comes to battery choices?:thinking:

Tegan's Dad · Jul 18, 2012

I'll give you a very generic answer: it depends on your setup.

I've read a lot of threads about this type of thing and there are a lot of good points brought up, like in a disaster, the common (AA, AAA, C, D) are the first to disappear from the shelves leaving the "uncommon" 123.

I tend to buy lights like you did at first. What's the best light for the purpose I'm using it for. Sometimes that includes the battery consideration, and sometimes not. I EDC a Fenix E05 because it's small and runs a long time on a lithium primary. In my car, I have a Sipik SK68 that runs on AA (also lithium primary), and at home I have a variety of lights that run AA (original mini-mag incan, ultrafire C3), AAA (Fenix E01, Mag Solitaire), D (4D Mag Incan), CR123 (Trustfire Z1, no-brand "3W" twisty from DX, Shiningbeam Blaze, Romissen 2x123 that I forget the model), as well as a few trade-show giveaways and cheaper lights from before I found CPF.

The important thing is that you have a plan. Some plan to stock a lot of a single battery so they can interchange them in various lights to help control cost, some vary the batteries so if one is not available, you can use others. Solar chargers, car chargers, and generators are all good backups if you use rechargeable.

I figure I'll always have AA and AAA around for other electronics, so why not have at least a couple lights that use them. As for other batteries, I've generally stuck with primaries just because I don't want to spend the time checking charge levels and babysitting a charger.

One other thought I've heard from people is to go buy one of those remote car jump starters. They hold a lot of energy to be able to jump start a car without being plugged in to any other source, and many have a built-in inverter to run like a portable generator. I'll bet you could charge a lot of 18650 batteries from one of those in an outage if a solar charger couldn't handle it.

HighlanderNorth · Jul 18, 2012

I have been here a year, and I've never criticized any moderators for anything, and its not a big deal, but here I dont understand why this was moved from the battery section to the "Recommended me a flashlight" section. This thread is about batteries, and It has nothing to do with me asking which flashlight I should buy.

I am asking the generic question "which batteries do you use for your flashlights and electronics, and do you stick with one type of battery or do you use a variety of batteries"?

HighlanderNorth · Jul 18, 2012

Tegan's Dad said:
I'll give you a very generic answer: it depends on your setup.

I've read a lot of threads about this type of thing and there are a lot of good points brought up, like in a disaster, the common (AA, AAA, C, D) are the first to disappear from the shelves leaving the "uncommon" 123.

I tend to buy lights like you did at first. What's the best light for the purpose I'm using it for. Sometimes that includes the battery consideration, and sometimes not. I EDC a Fenix E05 because it's small and runs a long time on a lithium primary. In my car, I have a Sipik SK68 that runs on AA (also lithium primary), and at home I have a variety of lights that run AA (original mini-mag incan, ultrafire C3), AAA (Fenix E01, Mag Solitaire), D (4D Mag Incan), CR123 (Trustfire Z1, no-brand "3W" twisty from DX, Shiningbeam Blaze, Romissen 2x123 that I forget the model), as well as a few trade-show giveaways and cheaper lights from before I found CPF.

The important thing is that you have a plan. Some plan to stock a lot of a single battery so they can interchange them in various lights to help control cost, some vary the batteries so if one is not available, you can use others. Solar chargers, car chargers, and generators are all good backups if you use rechargeable.

I figure I'll always have AA and AAA around for other electronics, so why not have at least a couple lights that use them. As for other batteries, I've generally stuck with primaries just because I don't want to spend the time checking charge levels and babysitting a charger.

One other thought I've heard from people is to go buy one of those remote car jump starters. They hold a lot of energy to be able to jump start a car without being plugged in to any other source, and many have a built-in inverter to run like a portable generator. I'll bet you could charge a lot of 18650 batteries from one of those in an outage if a solar charger couldn't handle it.

I dont know much about the portable car jumpers, but if they do hold enough power to jump start a car, then there has to be some way to step down the current so a lower current can be used to power other things, like to recharge batteries. If they dont make an adapter that will do it, then there's probably some electrical guru here that can tell us exactly what stuff to buy to make a home made adapter that will safely allow you to draw lower current from this type of device.(?)

As far as the "which batteries to use" question, I have heard both philosophies, one says only use 1 or 2 types of batteries to simplify things, and to use less common batteries like CR123's, because in an emergency, people will buy up all the common AA and AAA, D and maybe C batteries, but they won need many CR123's because they are not that popular". Well to that I say, if there are hundreds of people who come into each store to take all the AA and AAA's, but only a few people who will need CR123's, then that will still be a problem. Most stores stock hundreds of AA and AAA's, but either they wont stock CR123's, or they will only have 3-10 of them at a time, so if 2-5 people come to get those few CR123's, then they are going to be gone in a hurry! They may go as quickly and as surely as the AA and AAA's.

But you hit the nail on the head when you said to stock up, and to ensure you adopt a plan to supplement power and batteries, and to be able to recharge your rechargeables with solar, generator, etc. Plus, as long as you have fuel in your car/truck, you can always use the cigarette lighter to recharge your batteries.

reppans · Jul 18, 2012

I'm a portable gadgetaholic, little bit of a SHTF prepper type, and traveler/camper (air, RV, motorcycle, backpack). 5-10 yrs ago everything I owned seemed to have a proprietary Li-ion with a dedicated charger and wallwart. It was a pain packing all of it for travel. Of course, I also need to buy a dedicated Li-ion backup battery for each device and kept them topped up, which was about the worst thing you can do to a Li-ion BTW. And then, of course, if you used up both batts, and were away from the grid, the device was dead in the water.

Then they invented the Eneloop.

From that point on, I made a conscious effort to consolidate all my portable electronics devices around the AAs - GPS, radios, digicams, UV water purifiers, walkie talkies, flashlights, headlamps, lanterns, and even cellphone back-up chargers for smartphones. Now if I'm going anywhere, I just grab the devices I want (with whatever state of charge the batts happen to be in), some spare Eneloops and a tiny USB Eneloop charger. If I guess wrong on the spare batts, I have my one charger, or just stop in any gas station for AAs, or if off grid, start cannibalizing from other devices. I'm now very happy with the simplicity and easy of packing and especially the deep deep back-up bench.

So yes, I mostly buy AA-capable lights and especially ones with 200+ hrs moonlight modes (as that itself represents a spare battery to me). I will admit to having drifted to some AAA lights and 14500 batteries, but I don't feel so bad since those are are at least good for one-way sharing with my other devices. I know I'm pretty limited with the choices of lights out there, but I'm a low lumen enthusiast and am really enjoying my night vision and pocketable lights that last me a month (~ 60 hrs) per AA.

As far as SHTF is concerned, I do agree that AAs will be among the first batts to sell out in stores, but at last count in my home, there were at least three dozen AAs (and AAAs which can be used in place of AAs) sitting around just in clocks, clock radios, kids toys, remote controls, thermostats, smoke detectors, etc. I also have a larger Goal Zero and ultra-portable Powerfilm solar AA chargers, both tested extensively, so I'll be able to power all my crap for long, long time to come (well assuming no EMP event).

I don't see any reason to go with CR123s since L91 will have similar runtime, temp range and shelf life; Li-ion 14500s have greater capacity than 16340s; and alkalines and NiMh chemistry is only an option for AA users. All you loose is a 40% perceived brightness increase on Li primaries..... well worth it to me.

CMAG · Jul 18, 2012

most hobby lipo chargers are made to run on a car battery

HighlanderNorth · Jul 18, 2012

reppans said:
I'm a portable gadgetaholic, little bit of a SHTF prepper type, and traveler/camper (air, RV, motorcycle, backpack). 5-10 yrs ago everything I owned seemed to have a proprietary Li-ion with a dedicated charger and wallwart. It was a pain packing all of it for travel. Of course, I also need to buy a dedicated Li-ion backup battery for each device and kept them topped up, which was about the worst thing you can do to a Li-ion BTW. And then, of course, if you used up both batts, and were away from the grid, the device was dead in the water.

Then they invented the Eneloop.

From that point on, I made a conscious effort to consolidate all my portable electronics devices around the AAs - GPS, radios, digicams, UV water purifiers, walkie talkies, flashlights, headlamps, lanterns, and even cellphone back-up chargers for smartphones. Now if I'm going anywhere, I just grab the devices I want (with whatever state of charge the batts happen to be in), some spare Eneloops and a tiny USB Eneloop charger. If I guess wrong on the spare batts, I have my one charger, or just stop in any gas station for AAs, or if off grid, start cannibalizing from other devices. I'm now very happy with the simplicity and easy of packing and especially the deep deep back-up bench.

So yes, I mostly buy AA-capable lights and especially ones with 200+ hrs moonlight modes (as that itself represents a spare battery to me). I will admit to having drifted to some AAA lights and 14500 batteries, but I don't feel so bad since those are are at least good for one-way sharing with my other devices. I know I'm pretty limited with the choices of lights out there, but I'm a low lumen enthusiast and am really enjoying my night vision and pocketable lights that last me a month (~ 60 hrs) per AA.

As far as SHTF is concerned, I do agree that AAs will be among the first batts to sell out in stores, but at last count in my home, there were at least three dozen AAs (and AAAs which can be used in place of AAs) sitting around just in clocks, clock radios, kids toys, remote controls, thermostats, smoke detectors, etc. I also have a larger Goal Zero and ultra-portable Powerfilm solar AA chargers, both tested extensively, so I'll be able to power all my crap for long, long time to come (well assuming no EMP event).

I don't see any reason to go with CR123s since L91 will have similar runtime, temp range and shelf life; Li-ion 14500s have greater capacity than 16340s; and alkalines and NiMh chemistry is only an option for AA users. All you loose is a 40% perceived brightness increase on Li primaries..... well worth it to me.

I have moved over to AA and AAA lights recently. I just got a new multiple AA light today(fenix TK41), and 2 new AAA lights in today(both Thrunite Ti's), so I now have a total of 6- AAA lights(3 Thrunite Ti's, an Olight i3, and Titanium Innovations Illumina-Ti), with 1 of them running on 2-AAA's(FourSevens Preon 2). Plus I have 1 single AA light(Jetbeam Pa-10), a 6-AA light(iTp A6), and the 8-AA Fenix TK41.

I am currently using Eneloops in every AA light, and Tenergy Centura LSD rechargeable batteries in every AAA light.

Aside from that I have 3 single CR123 lights, 4-18650 lights. So I think I've got it covered.......

Lou Minescence · Jul 18, 2012

I have tried to keep most of my electronics and other battery things AA format when possible. That way my battery draw will not have 8 year old new batteries in it. The AA's stay fresh because there is a steady demand for them. I use AA rechargeables a lot too ( NIMH & 14500 ).
I have gone CR123 / 18650 with most of my lights because lights that take those batteries are good compact performers. My only exceptions to those 2 battery types are TV remotes and the TK70 take different batteries.

enomosiki · Jul 18, 2012

Here's my personal opinion;

The most powerful lights require exotic battery types, usually in the form of 3V CR123A. I get them by the bulk on the Internet for cheap, so price is not an issue. So, my primary lights are based on these battery types, and their rechargeable cousins like RCR123A. If this wasn't the case, I wouldn't have a light that can easily fit in my pocket capable of producing 1,100 OTF lumens.

On the other hand, I choose my secondary lights based on their ability to run on commonly available battery types, such as 1.5V AA and AAA. Being able to run them on higher voltage primaries and rechargeables for higher outputs are a plus. The one light that I found to be perfect for this purpose is Quark X AA² Tactical, as it has wide voltage range and can be fitted with either 1xAA, 2xAA or 1xCR123A battery tubes for economy or performance.

Mooreshire · Jul 19, 2012

For cave exploring I need to carry a main headlamp and a backup headlamp and a third backup light. Every so often I convert my whole setup to a new battery arrangement.

Long ago I had a hunting/mining incandescent headlamp with a 6v SLA hip-pack, a 3xAAA camping headlamp with three 5mm diodes, and a 2xAAA waterproof penlight. Then I switched my lights around to all take AAs, but in that era's Mini-Mags and Petzl Megas alkaline batteries were fine. Only few years ago I upgraded my lights again to use diodes that made alkaline batteries sag so I had to get myself a hefty collection of Eneloops.

Recently I got all new lights and in the process switched to 18650s - they blow my mind. Since I started using them I haven't broken out my spare cells once underground. I use a small featurefull knockoff hobby charger, which is already in my stays-in-the-car camera bag so I just stuck a balance plug on a 4x18650 holder and swapped it into the charging kit in place of the 4xAA NiMH wall wart that I had been lugging around.

I think it's convenient to have all my lights take the same batteries, and maybe safer since I can break a light and still use its batteries in a backup. It definitely plays a big role in which lights I purchase. I also like that the little $14 hobby charger can plug into the wall or the car socket and handle my LifePo4 video lights, camcorder's external battery pack, the Li-Ion flashlight batteries, my old NiMH cells, and basically any other cells or packs my buddies might need charged - also of course my r/c packs.

yliu · Jul 20, 2012

I prefer variety when it comes to batteries.

Here's how I do it:

I have collection of flashlights that run on a variety of cells, i.e. AA, AAA, D, CR123 and their rechargeable equivalents (plus a few keychain cheap keychain light on button cells) . I also stock a decent amount of each type of those cells.

So if there's an emergency situation, and I run out of batteries (which would be unlikely, cuz I got enough for months) then I can just go to a electronic store and no matter which type of battery they have, I have a light that runs on it.

Most people are stocking on AA or AAA because of their availability, but if most common lights uses those kind of cells and most people uses those type of lights, then wouldn't it be a logical conclusion that the AA and AAA cells are the first to run out during a very long blackout?

I don't know about the US, but in Europe I can go to any larger electronics store and I'm almost certain that they will carry Lithium primaries incl. CR123s.

But who on CPF doesn't have a bunch of lights

recycledelectrons · Jul 20, 2012

I have so many battery-powered gadgets, that take so many different batteries...

I have developed a few rules for gadgets:

(1) If it takes a 123A / 16340 or a AA, I will go for that model over another model. (123As and AAs are the most common types of batteries.)
(2) It it takes a coin cell or a AAA, I will avoid that model. (There are too many coin cells. AAA batteries cost the same as AAs, but have 1/3 to 1/2 the mAH capacity.)
(3) If I have batteries and chargers in that size, I can deal with it.
(4) If it's a new size of battery that I do not use I will try to avoid it.

I've ended up with AAs, Cs, Ds, 123As, and 18650s. Only a few of my gadgets (e.g., cell phone, tablet, laptop, ham handy-talkie, etc.) run something else. Even then, I have chargers that run off standard batteries. For example, I built a 12V power supply out of 18650 Batteries and an old 3.5" external HDD case.

SoCalDep · Jul 20, 2012

I buy flashlights for all sorts of reasons, so I end up with several sizes of batteries. Ultimately they fall into a few groups.

For my Law Enforcement "On-Duty" and EDC pocket lights, I like CR123 and AA lights. My large LE lights either take dedicated chargers (Streamlight) or "D" cells (Maglite). AA's are easily available and I use Eneloops with several spares available. I like tactical lights (carried on my duty belt or in my sap pocket) that accept either a single 18650 or CR123s such as my Eagletac T20C2 Mk II, 4Sevens Maelstrom, or the new Klarus XT11 that's on its way to me.

For pocket lights I like smaller lights that still have tactical forward clicky tail-caps, and are large enough to use in conjunction with a firearm. In many of these (Lumapower Trust Model-1, Quark AA Tactical, Sunwayman V10R, Streamlight PT1L) I use Li-Ion batteries (16340 and 14500) for that extra power, with the ability to use CR123 primaries, or in the case of the AAs, NiMH or Alkalines in a pinch

I also have a few lights which run on AAAs, and these are mostly small camping/admin type lights I would use for basic tasks during a blackout, etc...

I have an AM/FM/SW radio that runs on AA, walkie talkies that run on AAA, some games for the kid that use AAA, etc., so I stock up on both. I also like the 18650s because I can use them to run my charger as a USB charger for my phone during a blackout.

HighlanderNorth · Jul 20, 2012

SoCalDep said:
I buy flashlights for all sorts of reasons, so I end up with several sizes of batteries. Ultimately they fall into a few groups.

For my Law Enforcement "On-Duty" and EDC pocket lights, I like CR123 and AA lights. My large LE lights either take dedicated chargers (Streamlight) or "D" cells (Maglite). AA's are easily available and I use Eneloops with several spares available. I like tactical lights (carried on my duty belt or in my sap pocket) that accept either a single 18650 or CR123s such as my Eagletac T20C2 Mk II, 4Sevens Maelstrom, or the new Klarus XT11 that's on its way to me.

For pocket lights I like smaller lights that still have tactical forward clicky tail-caps, and are large enough to use in conjunction with a firearm. In many of these (Lumapower Trust Model-1, Quark AA Tactical, Sunwayman V10R, Streamlight PT1L) I use Li-Ion batteries (16340 and 14500) for that extra power, with the ability to use CR123 primaries, or in the case of the AAs, NiMH or Alkalines in a pinch

I also have a few lights which run on AAAs, and these are mostly small camping/admin type lights I would use for basic tasks during a blackout, etc...

I have an AM/FM/SW radio that runs on AA, walkie talkies that run on AAA, some games for the kid that use AAA, etc., so I stock up on both. I also like the 18650s because I can use them to run my charger as a USB charger for my phone during a blackout.

Why do Eagletac and Sunwayman use often the same model designation? They both make T20C models! ET makes the T20C2 and Sunwayman makes the T20CS. For a minute there I thought you said Eagletac T20C2 by accident, as I have a SWM T20CS, but nope, they both make similar lights with similar names.

It had me worried when you said you had the MKII version of the light, as that would mean I had recently bought yet another light model that became obsolete just days or weeks after I received it. I hope there isnt a MKII version of the SWM T20CS I just bought 2 months ago.

I now have 3 single CR123 size lights, but I'm not sure any of them can be mounted as firearm lights, and I dont want to have to deal with the extra weight of a 2-CR123 sized light on the end of a rifle, as it adds too much weight and reduces standing accuracy, and reduces the amount of time you can hold the rifle still while aiming due to the weight. I even chose against mounting my red dot sight up in the so called "scout" position, and mounted it above the receiver instead, due to the additional weight it adds forward near the barrel in the scout position. If I had a 2-CR123 light mounted up there as well, it would be too heavy. I have an aluminum mount for a flashlight, and I still haven't attached a flashlight to a rifle yet.

It always kills me when I see these people on Youtube who install every stupid accessory on the forward rails of their rifle for the purpose of being "tacti-cool". Just what you'd need, a light rifle that you've added 10lbs of weight to in the form of unnecessary crap that impedes the shootability and accuracy of your firearm! If I wanted a rifle that ended up weighing 15 lbs, I'd buy an FAL, an M1A or an M1 Garand, and it would still be 4-5 lighter than that!

Amazing......

SoCalDep · Jul 21, 2012

HighlanderNorth said:
Why do Eagletac and Sunwayman use often the same model designation? They both make T20C models! ET makes the T20C2 and Sunwayman makes the T20CS. For a minute there I thought you said Eagletac T20C2 by accident, as I have a SWM T20CS, but nope, they both make similar lights with similar names.

It had me worried when you said you had the MKII version of the light, as that would mean I had recently bought yet another light model that became obsolete just days or weeks after I received it. I hope there isnt a MKII version of the SWM T20CS I just bought 2 months ago.

I know how you feel. The marketing folks at many of these companies don't seem too creative!

HighlanderNorth said:
I now have 3 single CR123 size lights, but I'm not sure any of them can be mounted as firearm lights, and I dont want to have to deal with the extra weight of a 2-CR123 sized light on the end of a rifle, as it adds too much weight and reduces standing accuracy, and reduces the amount of time you can hold the rifle still while aiming due to the weight. I even chose against mounting my red dot sight up in the so called "scout" position, and mounted it above the receiver instead, due to the additional weight it adds forward near the barrel in the scout position. If I had a 2-CR123 light mounted up there as well, it would be too heavy. I have an aluminum mount for a flashlight, and I still haven't attached a flashlight to a rifle yet.

Viking Tactics has at least one Surefire light that uses a single CR123...they call it the "mini-L4" and it's a single-mode with a Scout tail-switch. It's a nice light and one I'd consider. I will make the weight sacrifice for a light, as I feel it is an important tool...Then again, I'm a bit more focused on the use of the patrol rifle in a close to medium range role. Our M4s have Surefire 6PX Tactical lights mounted on Elzetta mounts. To maintain consistency I put the light on my rifle in a similar mount. And in keeping with the thread title, all my weapon lights use CR123 batteries.

HighlanderNorth said:
It always kills me when I see these people on Youtube who install every stupid accessory on the forward rails of their rifle for the purpose of being "tacti-cool". Just what you'd need, a light rifle that you've added 10lbs of weight to in the form of unnecessary crap that impedes the shootability and accuracy of your firearm! If I wanted a rifle that ended up weighing 15 lbs, I'd buy an FAL, an M1A or an M1 Garand, and it would still be 4-5 lighter than that!

Amazing......

Again, I'm a proponent of the weapon light, but other than that, I agree. Our dept M4s have a light and an EoTech. My personal rifle (just for practice...not approved for duty use) has a light and a low-power variable scope with BUIS. That's it. I don't even have a railed handguard.

bushmattster · Jul 23, 2012

I used to have a variety of lights using different cells. Mostly D cells with some C cells also, but when I lived near the coast we had a couple of hurricane scares and the first thing to go was D cells followed by the C's. AA's were everywhere so I bought a cheap AA light just in case. Since then I buy mostly AA lights that use NiMH or lithiums, but can use AA alks because that is what I see in the stores during emergencies. My friends still have D lights because it's what we grew up with. They're going to have trouble if the S ever HTF.

My weapons light and my Eotech uses CR123's so I keep a dozen or so of those around since they have a ten year shelf life. I also have one light (different than my weapons light) that uses 123's. Also, one of my AA lights will fit my weapons light mount for the 123 because 123's are still hard to find at our local stores.

Quiksilver · Jul 25, 2012

I have the same setup.

I've stockpiled CR123 batteries.

But I also have decent flashlights that can take most other common battery types. AA, AAA, C, D, CR2.

That way, regardless of battery I find, I can still use it to power a flashlight and get the job done.

I have CR123 for a variety of reasons and yes I am concerned that in a decade or so they will not be in circulation due replacement viability of AA.

ScaryFatKidGT · Jul 25, 2012

Why would you need to go to a local store to buy 18650's there rechargeable? And if the power goes out theres always my cottonpickers solarcell charger

.

I understand what you say something like the Spark SL-6 is better than the SC600 for being prepared you can go to the store and grab some overpriced CR123's but the SC600 has better runtimes and I like the UI more.

I expect most of us on here have enough different lights to have every thing covered. Now if I was going on a missions trip or something yeah I would probably take a AA powered light, If I was going on a expedition to Africa It would probably be li-ions and a solar charger lol.

mattbatt · Jul 30, 2012

Since I can get AA easily for free at work and I use my Flashlight at work mostly I demand a flashlight that can run on AA. I can sometimes get AAA and 9V but they aren't as readily available. That being said Why are there no flashlights that run on 9V batteries?

Double_A · Jul 30, 2012

I have at least four lights of every battery type (AAA,AA,C,D)

Years ago I was heavy into Surefire and as a consequence I now have four E2e's, an M3, G2, C3, 9P, M6, E1b. None of them were being used because I switched to AA & AAA format lights. LEDs got so good in AA size lights, beside I could use eneloops and lithium L91's.

Then I found Lithium Ion rechargebles and now use my Surefires again powered with 17670's for those that use two 123's and two 17500's for those that use three 123's. (Pila charger)

When I made the transition to Ni-MH & Lithium Ion, I bought chargers both with their optional 12VDC cigarette lighter cords to recharge in a car.

(I also make up solar battery chargers using 20watt and 40watt solar panels, using 12Ahr and 32Ahr batteries to buffer the charger if a cloud passes over as some one the chargers will restart to zero if power stops)

The battery that will not sold out will be the lonely C cell. I have two nice Maglights in two C cell size. I have dropin LED replacement lamps from Maglight and they work wonderful. I've even got them working on two rechargeable NiMH C cells 2500 mAhr bought from Harbor Freight.

AA's will fly, D's will fly and now do to a proliferation of cheap LED cluster lights for $2, AAA's will fly of the shelves.

Change all your 123's over to Lithium Ions
Change all you AAA & AA over to eneloops (get yourself the adapter sleeves for C & D size)
Stock up about 50 123's
Stock a dozen each C & D alkalines

I've been in an earthquake when all my portable electronic ran fine for 8-15 hrs on their rechargeable Nicads until they ran down with no power to recharge and no option for recharging..

Cover your butt in a disaster, have a way to power all portable electronics at least three ways. Rechargeable, Primaries, 12VDC cord in a vehicle accessory (cigarette lighter) outlet.

With flashlights, do you prefer battery commonality or variety?

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