The concept to add to your quiver is steps or stepped increments vs continuous increments.
The stepped increment lights jump from pre-set outputs to preset outputs...for example by rotating a ring to detented points, or, pushing, and/or holding down, a switch to make the output change.
So if a light has say 6 output levels, you are either rotating a ring that has a stop at each out put, or, are pressing a switch to make a jump. On the rings, typically, you go one way for brighter, and the other way for dimmer outputs. On the button/switches, you either press and hold to "scroll" through the outputs, or do one press for each jump...and, typically, its a "higher to highest then down back to the lowest" pathway through the settings. MOST rings simply go from off or lowest, up to highest...and you reverse the rotation to get back to a lower output.
Some add a 'default on", typically for tactical lights, so they start at max output, and you then adjust from there if you want it dimmer. Non-tactical might start at the lowest setting, and you ramp up from that point if you want it brighter, and so forth.
For continuous, it can also use a ring or switch, except that there are no detents you can observe, and the output smoothly increases and decreases as you rotate the ring or hold down a switch, etc.
Many use a flash or other signal that you have reached the max output (So you know that more switch holding or ring turning will then start to make it dimmer again, etc...)
Some combine a tail or side switch with the above, so you have an on-off switch, as well as an adjustable switch or ring, etc.
Some add the ability to pre-set the ring or other output level to what you think you'll want it to come on at, and when turned on, its at that level. This can be a program, and/or a mechanical choice, depending on the UI.
Zebralight and ArmyTek for example use presets/detents, and, program choices...so you can choose your UI....or, use the factory defaults, etc.
Because the human eye is a terrible light meter...most presets are set at output jumps of about 50 - 100% of the adjoining lumen setting. The continuously adjustable outputs allow you to get a finer adjustment, say if you just want it 20% brighter or dimmer, but not all the way to 50% etc. This can be useful when trying to extend cell life or see as well as possible with night adapted vision w/o too much glare/ruining your night vision.
I wanted to know about different "ramping" switches (just learned that word from you, below! Thank you!) which I mistakenly called continuous in my reply. Apologies, again.
