Surefire Mods and Lego Light World Questions

dugash

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Mar 6, 2016
Messages
2
Hello, I've been using surefires since 2005. In 2011 I started supplementing surefire/panasonic/streamlight 123s with rechargeable 3.0V LiFePO4s for non-critical use. I was really happy to find a rechargeable power solution which allowed me to use my lights more often without burning so many batteries. I've also been using them in PEQ 15s since then too, which is really nice because I have a bad habit of leaving the selector on the visible laser position, which drains the battery overnight.--Although great, the lipo4s leave a little to be desired in burn time, which has lead me to find (and begin researching) CPF for alternative rechargeable solutions.
Since I've began this search, it's become a little overwhelming, with the magnitudes of creativity employed in these threads, and my questions have compounded. It definitely seems the more I learn, the less I know. --If anyone could help me through a couple of questions, I would really appreciate it.

For lights, I use:
TLR-1HLs (w/long-gun-kit rear-end, Insight Technology PEQ pressure pad or Streamlight pressure pad)
M952V (stock w/ surefire rear-end & pressure pad)
M300 mini (surefire pad)
M600 Scout (surefire pad)

(I have no budget limit, and know machinists w/ equipment)

1- What's a reliable, rechargeable solution that will result in a similar performance in output and burn-time or better for these lights? From what I've read, for a two-cell, I'm assuming 18650, which would necessitate boring the 952V and 600 body to 18mm?--for single cell and the TLR, I haven't found anything other than lipo4.

2- If I wanted to experiment with a Beast-Mode m952v body, with a focus on throw and power, would I just use a standard p60 head, drop in a high-powered lamp and bore-out the body to 18mm? I was considering this, but I have no idea what I'm doing http://www.pflexpro.com/PFlexPRO-P60-XM-L2-LED-Drop-In-p/p60-3.8-ics-22m.htm

2.5- What about the scout lights, what kind of increase in output or runtime is possible with altering the power source or the lamp? So far, I've read about e2c adapters and boring e series so that an 18mm can be inserted after removing the head, but the details of what this achieves are fuzzy to me. If using an e2c adapter, can you just throw in any p60 high powered lamp and use it at full output for a short time?

3- Can I revert to the use of cr123a primaries after modding the bodies? if so, will I have to change lamps or heads when switching between rechargeables and primaries? I have a rough understanding of ohms and algebra but I would make a poor electrical engineer.

4- If I start experimenting with altering the power source and the lamps in these particular lights, could it destroy the pressure pads or surefire end caps? Do I need to use clicky caps only for modded lights?

Thank you in advance if you can shed light on any of these. -Dug
 

DrafterDan

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jul 28, 2013
Messages
1,317
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Weaponlights, a classification all their own. I'm not much help in specifics, because I just use an offset E-series with a Malkoff MDC head, 16650 battery and call it good.

You will definitely get better runtime from a single 18650 (or other 6.5cm battery), but you are dropping the voltage. Two CR123's are 6.0v, one 18650 is 4.2 volts fully charged.

There is only so much throw you're going to get out of a dropin. The reflector can only be about an inch long. Super throw torches always come with a huge head, because you need a nice long reflector to shape the beam profile.

Have a look at nailbender (customlites.com), he's on these boards and makes some solid products. P60/ 6P/ D26 all mean the same thing, a dropin based on the surefire 6P system. I think for the m952v, you might consider his XML2 with smooth reflector and one mode (high). It can handle voltage input of 2.8v to 6v.

Boring bodies is a task better left to the skilled, it is easy to not get a bore that is in line with the original dimensions, meaning you'll blow out the side. Look up PrecisionWorks here, he offers boring of all sorts of lights. An alternate is to use a 17650 or 16650 battery which will fit a stock body, but they do pale when compared to a full 18650.

As long as the dropin you've chosen has the proper voltage input, you can switch between 2x CR123's and 1x 18650 with no problem.
 
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