EX10 (1xCR123A) and D10 (1xAA) Part 5

[AardvarkSagus]

I received my EX10 one hour ago. The operation of both the switch and the head is smoother than what I expected after reading several posts here. For the time being I don't see any reason for changing the factory lube.
The beam is sufficiently clean even if typically CREE and rather powerful. I could easily perform all the functions without any glitch.

There is one problem though: the light has a terrible smell which became apparent upon opening the box. I think it could be a fluid used in machining the parts. I have washed the outside with warm water and soap and the inside with alcohol but some smell still remains. :sigh:

Any thought? :thinking:

I was under the impression that the smell came from the vacuum formed plastic in the box. That's where the smell was strongest for me.

I'm not having nearly the issues with the UI as some people are. Mine will occasionally do something I wasn't trying to do, but well over 98% of the time it does exactly what I ask with the possible exception of attempting to ramp the wrong way. I have more issues when trying to use it in momentary mode, but not in clicky mode.

 

[HeadCSO]

I'm a bit of a latecomer to all of this though I have been monitoring this thread with interest. The other day, I was about to order a L2D Q5, but suddenly changed my mind and have now placed an order for a D10. Unfortunately, I am in the UK so I may have a bit of a wait before I can play. :mecry:

 

[lightsandknives]

I hope so, but at the sametime I'd like to think a little closer look at machining and size choice of o-rings wouldn't be that hard. I never need to break in my traditional clickies.



I've bought cheaper twisties that didn't require me to sand down the o-ring. I'd like to think this shouldn't be an issue. 4-7's called it designed to be a "tool", how many tools do you own that require another tool to fix it? Why not choose the proper size o-ring in the 1st place???



Ok, while he might've covered the ramping issue, the UI is still buggy. I wouldn't exactly place myself below average in manual dexterity. But I specifically tried to shortcut to max brightness three times in a row. 3x it didn't do it despite doing the click-click/hold easily within the <~0.5s. Then on the 4th try it started ramping up (was on min brightness), then the light blinked and shutoff all the while holding the button and not letting go. Buggy UI? Yes.



I wouldn't call it awesome. I used it tonight to go looking for some punk kids that ran away after kicking something into my car. Thankfully I already had it set to max brightness or I would've spent more time trying to set it while they ran away.

I REALLY hope my EX10 doesn't remain this tight to twist and hard to push on. At this point I will be avoiding NC's offering in the future. IMO, too much HYPE. I will however say that the knurling is perfect. Too bad there are so many other flaws.

That might be part of your problem. The shortcut to max isn't click-click-hold, it's click-hold, assuming the light is already on. (and it think it's around .3 seconds)

Give that a try and see how it works.

 

[mighty82]

That might be part of your problem. The shortcut to max isn't click-click-hold, it's click-hold, assuming the light is already on. (and it think it's around .3 seconds)

Give that a try and see how it works.

Well, he didn't write click-click-hold. He wrote klick-click/hold. So first a click and then a click/hold (click with hold). That's the way I understand it.

 

[lightsandknives]

Well, he didn't write click-click-hold. He wrote klick-click/hold. So first a click and then a click/hold (click with hold). That's the way I understand it.

You may be right. I guess click/hold is one action. Maybe it's just not happening quickly enough???

 

[Blindasabat]

As much as I like my NC PD, it still has a switch, it is just not at the tail. It is in the head.
I hope it is reliable as I want to use my EX10 for a long time. I think it's real advantages are that it is ostensibly smaller and lower profile, and it has the ability to use two circuits for the UI operation.

Theoretically the PD should be reliable for lots longer than any clicky. There is nothing much to fail mechanically. Worst case the contact ring may get dirty, but that is easily fixed.

 

[mighty82]

Has anyone done any runtime testing on the lowest level yet? I know someone estimated the lowest level to be 0.3 lumens, which is way less than the claimed 3-5 lumens. The runtime should be a LOT more than 60 hours.

 

[ruriimasu]

Ok, while he might've covered the ramping issue, the UI is still buggy. I wouldn't exactly place myself below average in manual dexterity. But I specifically tried to shortcut to max brightness three times in a row. 3x it didn't do it despite doing the click-click/hold easily within the <~0.5s. Then on the 4th try it started ramping up (was on min brightness), then the light blinked and shutoff all the while holding the button and not letting go. Buggy UI? Yes.

i thought there was a problem with the ramping too when it blinked and shutoff. then i realised that occurred because i did not maintain the pressure required to hold the piston down. it is easy to think that you are maintaining the pressure but you are not.

 

[NetGod3Com]

I have experienced no problems with the shortcuts or ramping, I can hear my EX10 if I hold it up to my ear, sounds kind of cool when ramping.:twothumbs

 

[1dash1]

Re: Ramping bug.

I did a quick search of the CPF Forum and found the following discussion:

Inh's comments from EX10 (1xCR123A) and D10 (1xAA) Part 4

While I believe Inh's ideas are correct, let me present a simpler explanation:

Basic Principles
===========

1. The D10 always remembers the last ramping sequence.


2. The D10 will always ramp in the opposite direction from its last ramping sequence.

That's it.

You knew that the D10 retains its memory of the last mode. Well, the D10 additionally remembers what the last ramping sequence was.

It doesn't matter how many times you click back and forth between max and low. It doesn't matter whether you turn the light off and then back on. It doesn't matter how long your light was turned off. Apply these two rules and you can predict whether your ramping will work or "get stuck at the extremes" every time.

Simple, eh? :shrug:

Try it a few times and you'll see that it always ramps in the opposite direction.

If you cleanly execute all commands, you'll quickly catch on to how it works.

On the other hand, if you misexecute some commands, then it becomes a game of following the pea in the shell.

For example, suppose the last ramp was increasing and you're at the lowest setting. You miss the quick "click-release-hold" shortcut to get to the max brightness, but do it correctly on the second try. Your flashlight is then sitting at max output. When you press/hold to start the ramp sequence, what do you predict?

The answer is that the light will sit there doing nothing.

(The UI interpreted your last hold of the missed "click-release-hold" shortcut as a ramp command. So, it was ramping down, even though you didn't realize it at the time because it was already on low. With the current ramp command, the U.I. will reverse the ramp sequence and attempt to ramp upward. Since it is already sitting on max, it has nowhere to go.)
​

From a practical standpoint, this tip is of little consequence to most owners. It's easier to simply let go of the button and re-start the ramp sequence than to try to keep track of the ramp sequences. :thinking:

But for me, it is somehow comforting to know that the bug isn't truly random (misoperating). Instead, it is just doing its job the way that it was designed.

 

[DavidD]

Has anyone done any runtime testing on the lowest level yet? I know someone estimated the lowest level to be 0.3 lumens, which is way less than the claimed 3-5 lumens. The runtime should be a LOT more than 60 hours.

I have not. But, in selfbuilt's review thread, post #79 HKJ says regarding current draw on the lowest setting,

"I checked the current drain from the battery:
NiMH: 24 mA
LiIon: 7.2 mA"

For a NiMH that is rated between 2000 & 2700, that would give between 83hrs & 112hrs, would it not?

I don't have any 14500s, but they are rated at 750 IIRC, which would also give right around 100hrs.

NOTE: HKJ didn't specify if the current drain was from a fully charged cell, or half depleted. So, if he measured 24 mA from a fully charged cell (with higher voltage), the current drain would increase as the cell voltage decreased with use and the above hours estimated would be too high.

If he measured 24 mA from a half-used cell, then it would approximate an average current drain and the estimated hours of runtime listed above could be fairly accurate.

 

[276]

I really like my EX10 and would recommend one. However, it definitely has some quirks beyond getting used to the UI. Mine has problems staying on or off. I have cleaned, lubed, etc. The piston feels fine. My main troubles are:

Sometimes, not always, I can shake it and it will turn on (or off).
Sometimes, I will turn it off and set it down, and it will turn back on. Sometimes, I will turn it on and aim it at something then it blinks off. Sometimes, I have to perform commands more than once to get them to "take". (not just ramping)

Some will say "You'll get used to the UI" I get it, but I am 100% sure I'm doing it right.

It seems to help somewhat if I take it apart and put it back together.

With all this said, I still really like the light, especially for the price and my uses don't require it to be perfect. I'll probably even get a D10.

I'll bet version 2.0 will be even better.

I had the same problems where it would turn on when i set it down or when i shook it 4sevens told me to wipe down the lube on the two orings and use a lube with more viscosity like deoxit or teflon lube. If that doesn't work try rotating the contact ring 180 degrees and thirdly to use a small screwdriver and try to widen the gap in the contact ring. I did all three and know have no problems with my EX10

 

[edc3]

There is one problem though: the light has a terrible smell which became apparent upon opening the box. I think it could be a fluid used in machining the parts. I have washed the outside with warm water and soap and the inside with alcohol but some smell still remains. :sigh:

Any thought? :thinking:

The packaging that both of my lights were shipped in smelled really bad, but the lights are fine. I think I'm a little sensitive to chemical smells, so as soon as I got the lights out, the boxes went bye bye.

 

[itch808]

Well, he didn't write click-click-hold. He wrote klick-click/hold. So first a click and then a click/hold (click with hold). That's the way I understand it.

Correct, I meant two actions. I didn't click-hold because then someone would figure I just pushed the button once. And trust I didnt let go. On the hold I'm keeping the button pushed down quite firmly since my PD is so stiff. I suppose I should've probably just opted for a Novatec 120P and be done with it.

 

[Taboot]

I really like my EX10 and would recommend one. However, it definitely has some quirks beyond getting used to the UI. Mine has problems staying on or off. I have cleaned, lubed, etc. The piston feels fine. My main troubles are:

Sometimes, not always, I can shake it and it will turn on (or off).
Sometimes, I will turn it off and set it down, and it will turn back on. Sometimes, I will turn it on and aim it at something then it blinks off. Sometimes, I have to perform commands more than once to get them to "take". (not just ramping)

Some will say "You'll get used to the UI" I get it, but I am 100% sure I'm doing it right.

It seems to help somewhat if I take it apart and put it back together.

With all this said, I still really like the light, especially for the price and my uses don't require it to be perfect. I'll probably even get a D10.

I'll bet version 2.0 will be even better.

I had the same problems where it would turn on when i set it down or when i shook it 4sevens told me to wipe down the lube on the two orings and use a lube with more viscosity like deoxit or teflon lube. If that doesn't work try rotating the contact ring 180 degrees and thirdly to use a small screwdriver and try to widen the gap in the contact ring. I did all three and know have no problems with my EX10

Thanks, I'll give it a try!

 

[mikel81]

There is one problem though: the light has a terrible smell which became apparent upon opening the box. I think it could be a fluid used in machining the parts. I have washed the outside with warm water and soap and the inside with alcohol but some smell still remains. :sigh:

Any thought? :thinking:

Mine had a very strong electronic odor at first too. I imagine it's what China probably smells like.
:shrug:

 

[mikel81]

I have experienced no problems with the shortcuts or ramping, I can hear my EX10 if I hold it up to my ear, sounds kind of cool when ramping.:twothumbs

I noticed this when I first got it (whining noise), and didn't think much of it until now I see everyone talking about it. Just wanted to point out, mine only makes the noise while holding the button down. No matter if it's in momentary or regular, it's only audible if I am holding the switch in.

 

[LED-holic]

Mine had a very strong electronic odor at first too. I imagine it's what China probably smells like.
:shrug:

What a strange comment. :thinking:

A country doesn't have a smell. A factory might have a smell, a house might have a smell, a building might have a smell. But to imagine an entire country smelling the same way is just silly.

 

[Illumination]

Received my D10 today. Nice UI (but still not as smooth as Photon Proton Pro), nice fit & finish, AWFUL CREE RING (as bad as DI and almost as bad as Photon Proton).

Why can't someone design a good cree reflector?

The output from my Fenix L1D CE is MUCH cleaner...almost no visible cree rings.

I'd pay an extra $20 for this light if it had a better reflector.

 

[Kilovolt]

Why can't someone design a good cree reflector?

Have you tried a LiteFlux LF5XT? :naughty: