How to disable multimode on sku 15880?

[Nos]

Does someone know how to make a single mode driver out of DX sku. 15880?
:shrug:

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.15880

 

[TooManyGizmos]

Don't see the need to.


It has memory.


If you want one mode(on-off) ....why buy a 5 mode which you pay extra for ?


Just don't push the button so many times and you'll be ok.

.

 

[Nos]

hmmmm, the memory mode on my driver steps further each time i switch it on :thumbsdow

 

[TooManyGizmos]

You are not leaving it ON in your prefered level for at least 3 seconds before turn off.(memory)

Otherwise - it's faulty.

 

[Nos]

hmmmm, that works, Thanks.......but i still cant morse that way :candle:

 

[TooManyGizmos]

Sorry ........... on most multimode lights ... you can't.

You need a single mode light with a forward/momentary clicky . (*tactical switch*)
.

 

[TooManyGizmos]

Bye-the-way .......... we don't morse any more



Now *texting* and *tweeting on twitter* is the big FAD

.

 

[lebox97]

:lolsign:

Bye-the-way .......... we don't morse any more


Now *texting* and *tweeting on twitter* is the big FAD

.

 

[linterno]

There are two sku 15880 driver versions. The first one uses an ATMEL ATtiny13V microcontroller and the second one uses a Microchip PIC12F629 microcontroller.

If you solder a jumper between VCC and PWM pin the light will be on all the time.

For the first version (with ATTiny13V) you can solder a jumper between pin 8 (VCC) and pin 6 (PWM). Pin one is that closed to the hole in the chip.

For the second version (PIC12F629) you can solder a jumper between pin 1 (VCC) and pin 7 (PWM).

This modification could make a faulty microcontroller since there could be an internal short circuit when the PWM is doing its work. If you are doing it a permanent change, I guess this short circuit would be no problem.

To do the job better you could remove the microcontroller and solder the jumper wire as explained.

 

[Nos]

Thanks i will try that. :hitit:

 

[kosPap]

There are two sku 15880 driver versions. The first one uses an ATMEL ATtiny13V microcontroller and the second one uses a Microchip PIC12F629 microcontroller.
If you solder a jumper between VCC and PWM pin the light will be on all the time.
For the first version (with ATTiny13V) you can solder a jumper between pin 1 (VCC) and pin 6 (PWM). Pin one is that closed to the hole in the chip.
For the second version (PIC12F629) you can solder a jumper between pin 1 (VCC) and pin 7 (PWM).
This modification could make a faulty microcontroller since there could be an internal short circuit when the PWM is doing its work. If you are doing it a permanent change, I guess this short circuit would be no problem.
To do the job better you could remove the microcontroller and solder the jumper wire as explained.

well I am somehow perplexed...Somehow I do not see if what you say fits the microcontrollers diagrams...
here are them

ATmel controller

And a pic taken from tohuwanobu’s post in a similar thread

now do you mean briging pins 8 and 6 when we reference the diagram?

PIC controller

And a pic from same post

that one I got allright..what you are calling Vcc pin is Vdd pin in the diagram

For reference's sake there are 2 more threads on this driver single-mode mod…
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=218235
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=227194

Now how all these apply to the multimode AMC7135 drivers?

here are some pics

by ti-force in this post in Stefan Mag p7 driver sandwich thread

bydrewfus2101 in this post


what is going on here? Is the C1 capacitor moved to bypass the chip ground and direct current straight to the PWM pin pad?

What is the arhitecture of these kind or circuits? the controller gets in line with the AMC7135 chips and PWMs to the desired output?

Now I would like your help teaching me how to “catch a fish”

Supposing that we have an unknown chip how can we probe it with a DMM (Vdc mode?)
In order to locate the pins that are power and PWM? Assuming we can decipher the ground pin?
(found else where another member suggested putting the driver in strobe mode and I can deduct why, the PWM might jumble the DMM readings)

Thanks beforehand...I know trying to figure out electornics that i was never taught (agronomist with limited parts knowledge just to get the Greek HAM license), is tiring for the people that answer my questions, and that i wish there was a way to show how much I appreciate it...

 

[linterno]

well I am somehow perplexed...Somehow I do not see if what you say fits the microcontrollers diagrams...
here are them

ATmel controller

And a pic taken from tohuwanobu’s post in a similar thread

now do you mean briging pins 8 and 6 when we reference the diagram?

Yes, I was wrong. In Attiny13V Vcc pin is 8. I fixed it in my previous post.

PIC controller

And a pic from same post

that one I got allright..what you are calling Vcc pin is Vdd pin in the diagram

Yes, it is named VCC or Vdd.

For reference's sake there are 2 more threads on this driver single-mode mod…
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=218235
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=227194

Now how all these apply to the multimode AMC7135 drivers?

here are some pics

by ti-force in this post in Stefan Mag p7 driver sandwich thread

This seems to be attiny13v version and pin 6 is PWM.

bydrewfus2101 in this post

This seems to be PIC version with microcontroller removed and they did what I was talking about when I wrote "remove microcontroller". I guess that 000 is not a capacitor but a 0 ohms resistor. I simple jumped had worked. Pin 7 seems to be PWM

what is going on here? Is the C1 capacitor moved to bypass the chip ground and direct current straight to the PWM pin pad?

I think so.

What is the arhitecture of these kind or circuits? the controller gets in line with the AMC7135 chips and PWMs to the desired output?

I think so.

Now I would like your help teaching me how to “catch a fish”

Supposing that we have an unknown chip how can we probe it with a DMM (Vdc mode?)

I think you cannot do it with a DMM. You need an oscilloscope here. Now, if you DMM has frequency meter the you could read PWM frequency.

In order to locate the pins that are power and PWM? Assuming we can decipher the ground pin?

You should read datasheets.

(found else where another member suggested putting the driver in strobe mode and I can deduct why, the PWM might jumble the DMM readings)

Thanks beforehand...I know trying to figure out electornics that i was never taught (agronomist with limited parts knowledge just to get the Greek HAM license), is tiring for the people that answer my questions, and that i wish there was a way to show how much I appreciate it...

 

[kosPap]

snip snip.....

This seems to be PIC version with microcontroller removed and they did what I was talking about when I wrote "remove microcontroller". I guess that 000 is not a capacitor but a 0 ohms resistor. I simple jumped had worked.
.....snip snip....

well now we have a ready made easy solution in making single mode sandwiches...Now if ShiningBeam had more of his 8x boards we would have drop-ins in a jiffy..

thanks for responding, be well, kostas

 

[lolzertank]

Bye-the-way .......... we don't morse any more



Now *texting* and *tweeting on twitter* is the big FAD

.

Which is why some people have the nerve to use cellphone screens as flashlights.

 

[kosPap]

Ladies & Gentlemen I did it!!!!

and here are 2 closeups...sorry for the spring and its base, I was anxious try it in a SF

 

[kosPap]

Hi all for once more...
I have done one more mod...

I removed the tiny13 chip from a Shining Beam 2500mA board...(and bridged pins 6&8)

And measurements confirmed my suspicions

When I had moded the Dx15880 board I noticed a drop in current draw/out/ The latter was was 0.5 instead of 0.88.
I thought it maybe it was the LED (a Q4 pulled from a crappy X-Alpha module, do you remember them?)

But yesterday when I measured current draw I got only 1.8 with a full AW18650....Now there could ne deamons like crocodile clips resistance, and the wiring to the led (new 1mm wire)

but...is there a chance that removing the controling chip reduces output?