Modding Quark low voltage head

[Kalsu]

I am aquiring a Quark low voltage head with a XP-G R5 emitter that I am going to try and swap out with an XP-G 90 CRI emitter. This is going to be my first foray into the modding world.

My question is this: The Quark MCPCB appears to be held onto the head with a "white rubbery goo" (http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?247992-Quark-head-disassembly-internals-emitter-board-PICTURES!). After the MCPCB is un-soldered is this "goo" removable? If so is it worth the price of the Arctic Alumina to glue the new board to the head (for added heat dispersion)?

Thanks for the information. Like I said I am new to this and looking for all the information I can find :thumbsup: Thanks!

 

[think2x]

It's only heat sink compound in the Quark head, no need to glue it down. The black self aligner and reflector hold the MCPCB in place. Once you get the head opened up the swap is very easy. I swapped out the R5 in my Ti Quark with the XP-E neutral from my daughters AA2 from the first neutral run of the Quark. I also have an 123x2 swapped to 1x17670 running an R5 and shiningbeam 1.4 amp 3-mode driver.(the original driver flickered on moonlight)

I tightened rubber strap wrenches on the 2 halves and used adjustable pliers to open the heads on mine.

 

[Kalsu]

Okay I think I get it. The goo is not an adhesive, and can be left in place for added heat sinking ability?

 

[ti-force]

Okay I think I get it. The goo is not an adhesive, and can be left in place for added heat sinking ability?

The goo is thermal paste, and must be either left in place or replaced with another type. Heat is a major enemy of LED's and the thermal paste is crucial in transferring heat from the emitter to the body. Use a thin layer. You use this paste to fill in air pockets because air pockets do a very poor job of transferring heat.

 

[Kalsu]

So I will just leave it there and reuse it. I just wasn't sure if the "goo" could be reused or not. What would be a good thermal paste to use in its place, if it comes to that?

 

[ti-force]

So I will just leave it there and reuse it. I just wasn't sure if the "goo" could be reused or not. What would be a good thermal paste to use in its place, if it comes to that?

Every quark mod I've ever done I wiped the factory thermal compound off, cleaned both surfaces with rubbing alcohol, then used Arctic Silver 5 in place of it. The difference probably couldn't be seen with the naked eye so it's really just personal preference to me. AS5 can be purchased from Radio Shack, but it's kinda pricey at $10-$15 per tube.

 

[Kalsu]

Thanks for the info. Looks like I will have to check out the local Radio Shack...

 

[netprince]

Hey wade11a... the most helpful thing I learned about opening thread locked heads... when you've got it clamped down and you start cranking the head, go back and forth instead of just the loose direction. Also, leave the body attached to the head, the metal where the threads are is very thin and WILL deform if you dont.

 

[ti-force]

Thanks for the info. Looks like I will have to check out the local Radio Shack...

No problem. Also, if you're interested in seeing more images of Quarks disassembled, see the following threads on some of the Quarks I've modded:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?285947-Quark-Mods-Red-and-Blue-times-two

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?274170-Quark-123-2-R5-Shiningbeam-Driver-Mod

 

[Kalsu]

Thanks for all the information. I really appreciate it. Now I just have to get all the stuff together and get it done!

 

[think2x]

Hey wade11a... the most helpful thing I learned about opening thread locked heads... when you've got it clamped down and you start cranking the head, go back and forth instead of just the loose direction. Also, leave the body attached to the head, the metal where the threads are is very thin and WILL deform if you dont.

Good advise here. I got in a rush on my third try with the driver and egged a Quark head because I didn't leave it on the body.

 

[Kalsu]

Good advise here. I got in a rush on my third try with the driver and egged a Quark head because I didn't leave it on the body.

I would have never thought about that. It makes sense though when you think about it.

 

[think2x]

I got it back to round easy enough but I was getting frustrated over something I over looked, the Quark head is SMALLER than the 17mm board so I had to dremel off a little of the boards edge to fit it. Live and learn I guess.

FWIW: I have used radio shack's house brand of thermal heat sink compound and it works good if you are on a budget.

 

[Kalsu]

I got it back to round easy enough but I was getting frustrated over something I over looked, the Quark head is SMALLER than the 17mm board so I had to dremel off a little of the boards edge to fit it. Live and learn I guess.

FWIW: I have used radio shack's house brand of thermal heat sink compound and it works good if you are on a budget.

Thats good to know. I am going to head into the local radio shack tonight and see what they have.

 

[Kalsu]

I am assuming that the red wire is positive and the black is negative? I think that holds true in most cases?

 

[ti-force]

Good advise here. I got in a rush on my third try with the driver and egged a Quark head because I didn't leave it on the body.

Neither you or netprince have an excuse for damaging a Quark head from not using the body to support the thin head during disassembly :poke:; everyone who has ever contacted me in the past seeking advice on how to open/mod a Quark head was made aware of this issue. That includes the both of you.

wade11a,

One thing I haven't seen mentioned in this thread (unless I've missed it) is the fact that if you use heat to help loosen the glue holding the head halves together, you should be made aware of the fact that there's a slight chance you could also loosen the glue holding the driver in while heating the head. This has happened to me more than once. It's really no big deal because you simply glue the driver back in, but you should be made aware of it nonetheless. Also, the black centering piece can be damaged from excessive heat.

Let us know how it goes.

 

[ti-force]

Double post.....

 

[Kalsu]

I will let you know...

I am hoping that a couple strap wrenches will do the trick on getting the head open.

 

[think2x]

Neither you or netprince have an excuse for damaging a Quark head from not using the body to support the thin head during disassembly :poke:; everyone who has ever contacted me in the past seeking advice on how to open/mod a Quark head was made aware of this issue. That includes the both of you.

Yes I KNOW. :shakehead After forgetting to shave the driver board down and reassembling it for the THIRD time I got a little impatient. It's my "beater" light anyway that I've sanded to simulate the aged look.
I'm too stubborn to walk away when I get aggravated sometimes.

Tiforce,
Thanks for all the great advice and for answering all my questions on the Quarks BTW.

 

[Kalsu]

So I swapped the harsh cool emitter to the XP-G 90 CRI. It is a beautiful thing (I don't have a camera worth anything to take pictures, sorry). Awesome color temperature, and fabulous color rendition.

A few questions though. The head came apart pretty easy, but what are you guys using to remove the old thread locker from the head?
The other question: When you solder in the new board do you solder the leads right to the top of the board? There seemed to be some sort of white paper (?) coating on top that the solder did not want to stick to. So I just soldered the leads into the solder that was on the sides of the LED. Probably not the best Idea, remelting solder, but that's what had to happen.

EDIT: The more I look at the emitter I think that is where I am suppose to attach the wires. New guy's and there stupid questions.....what do you do with them?

When I de-soldered the leads the black wire was really short and the wire strands were in pretty bad shape. I may be going back in to change that wire to a little longer one.