P3D Rebel P100 not happy with rechargeables

Having read so much about the new P3D Rebel P100 I decided to go and try it out. I already have a P3D CE which runs happily on 1x 17670. But this was not the case with the Rebel P100 version. The turbo mode flickered with both 1x UF 17670 and 2x UF RCR123 (3.6v protected). Put 2x CR123A primaries in, all worked normal and no flickering. The rechargeables were all fully charged and 2 sets have been tried with the same results.

I can't say whether this was a bad sample. But for those of you who are committed to rechargeables (like yours truly). Be sure you have considered this.

The P3D is designed to run at higher voltages than 3.7.

I'd have to try to find the thread, but it seems like the operating voltage for a P3D is around 4v - 8v or so.

Rechargeable 123 cells work GREAT in my P3D, but I could see how single cell 17670s which run at 3.7 volts could cause problems.

Edit: Here's the post: http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showpost.php?p=1951496&postcount=4

Apparently it's meant to operate between 6.0v and 8.4v.

I had a P3D Rebel 100 with the same problem. It wasn't flickering, it would just start in strobe mode on turbo and would be hard to get it out of that mode. If I took it out of turbo it would normally start on medium, skipping low, and often not change modes. I sent it back, the new one so far has been fine with RCR123's.

I think I will stick to my P3D CE as it is happy with 17670.

It is a great pity that designers of modern lights do not take into account that many users are committed to rechargeables.

All the P3D's should work just fine with two rcr123a's. All the unit that I have
tested work just time. If yours is having problem, then you need to
send it back to the vendor you purchase from.

The Rebel P3D circuit uses the same circuit as the P3D CE which has
been out for over a month.

The unit I had seemed to have a problem in the tail cap. I could switch tailcaps and it would work fine, so it wasn't the circuit. It maybe that the tail cap just needed some kind of adjustment I couldn't figure out.

mchlwise said:

The P3D is designed to run at higher voltages than 3.7.

Apparently it's meant to operate between 6.0v and 8.4v.

Click to expand...

According to 4sevens the P3D will run a lot higher than 8.4v, in the tactical body post he say the P3D is safe to 16v

In the post he says:

I have tested the buck circuit inside the P3D
up to 16v.

The current draw at the battery goes down dramatically
as the V goes up. I would not go above 16v

Click to expand...

d123 said:

According to 4sevens the P3D will run a lot higher than 8.4v, in the tactical body post he say the P3D is safe to 16v

Click to expand...

Yeah, I saw that. In the post I linked he also says the low-voltage warning doesn't kick in until around 3 volts, so it will clearly operate outside of its intended range of 6-8 volts, it's just not "supposed" to.

The point is as far as running it on rechargeables: It's best to run it on multiple 3.7 volt cells because running it on a single 3.7 volt cell is right on the bottom of the range where it will work.

The P3D has NO PROBLEMS with rechargeable batteries... as long as you are using more than one. It just has problems running on single 3.7 volt rechargeable batteries.

I guess I'm not too suprised given the recommended input voltages of these LEDs. I guess you could overcome the problem with RCR123s...although you'll lose some run-time.

Slightly off topic, but how do you like your P3D Rebel compared to your P3D-CE? Is the Rebel brighter?

Thanks

When I got my P3D Rebel 100 it was brighter than my P3D Cree P4. I've now had my P3D P4 upgraded to a Q5 and now it's brighter than the Rebel 100.

What runtimes are people getting on the P3D using 2xR123As? Seems all other lights that can use both 1x17670/18650 or 2xR123As have dramatically lower runtimes on R123As. Is the P3D different?

jsr said:

What runtimes are people getting on the P3D using 2xR123As? Seems all other lights that can use both 1x17670/18650 or 2xR123As have dramatically lower runtimes on R123As. Is the P3D different?

Click to expand...

Bump for jsr's question. I'm curious also.

Thanks

Here's a graph done by chevrofreak:


Runtimes will be similar. It mainly depends on the Vf of the LED (which will vary from brand to brand and part to part)
Since the output is fully regulated, it's the current that is kept constant. The Vf determines what
V is at given any I and in turn the amount of power consumption (W).

Hope this helps.

i just preordered a p3d rb 100 yesterday. i hope mine works w/ 17670 cells i have. if it doesnt, i'll have to send it back to 4 sevens for another type of light.

if i have to send it back, would a p3d CE work with a 17670??
does the p3dCE come w/ a textured reflector??

thanks.....Bill

Thanks 4sevens, but I was looking for a Li-Ion rechargeable R123A output graph since that seems to be the more reliable rechargeable option.

FYI.
A friend of mine just received the P3D Rebel and i was so surprise of the hotspot intensity - it was so bright and nice tint as well - not so warm.I will take some photos to compare to my modded D-mini clone with Q5 on it
Imagine if double Rebel 00/200 or next Gen K2 emitter is in that P3D
Stay tune.

here we go - distance 50 feet.
1.fenix Rebel 100


Dmini clone with Q5


Olight T20


Q2 drop in


LF5


DX rebel


The contenders


The contenders 2

Very nice. I like the tint on the Rebel more than I do the Q5 Seoul LED - it's less yellow-green but isn't 'creamy' - the color rendition appears excellent, and the T20 has a very tight spot, at the expense of spill.