some AMP testing i did on various batteries

Now before you freak out i have a DMM that can handle this kinda current

Powerex 2700mAh
tested power after 1 break in cycle on MaHa c-9000
2550-2600

Amp output per cell
10.6-11.0

energizer 2500
8.6-8.8
still more testing to go. these are the older batteries before 2005 i think so 3-5 years old now.
only coming in at ~2000 on both the c-9000 and bc-900, these are going back to the battery haven soon lol

energizer 2450mAh
I have a few cells at 2500 and a few at 24xx area and 2 at 2200
10.0-10.6 (note i have had these batteries for year the 10.6 where after one refresh on a LaCrosse BC-900)
still more testing to go on these, i need more chargers

PowerEx Imedion low discharge 2100mAh
tested at 2150 to 2250 -
9.6-10.1 AMPS


Sanyo ENELOOP 2000mAh
1 refresh cycle on bc-900
2 cells are at 2150 and 2 are at 2080

tested at 11.7 AMPS (holly crap)

La crosse 2600mAh (came with charger)
tested at 2550-2600 after refresh on bc-900
Tested at 9.9-10.1 Amps


more testing will follow on this soon

sorry if this is repeat info if theres anything special please ask i'll do it (note must stay under 20A)

if you keep "flash amping" them, you wont have anything.
is not so good to short them out like that you know.
the "anode" contact area is very small and subject to molecular changes due to overheating the connection point there.

they probably do handle about 6-10amps, but your pushing it.

i will show you, just in case you never saw what your pounding.
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/180015
scroll down to post #8 , and some bats are connected even poorer than that by far.

if you arent going to be a little nicer to the batteries, the lot of us are going to get high on some electrolytes :scowl: and come over there and send them off to Battery protective services. and you will have to go to court to get them back you know there are not a lot of battery lawyers who are going to take your case. :ironic:
put you up on assault on battery charges

VidPro said:

if you keep "flash amping" them, you wont have anything.
is not so good to short them out like that you know.
the "anode" contact area is very small and subject to molecular changes due to overheating the connection point there.

they probably do handle about 6-10amps, but your pushing it.

i will show you, just in case you never saw what your pounding.
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/180015
scroll down to post #8 , and some bats are connected even poorer than that by far.

if you arent going to be a little nicer to the batteries, the lot of us are going to get high on some electrolytes :scowl: and come over there and send them off to Battery protective services. and you will have to go to court to get them back you know there are not a lot of battery lawyers who are going to take your case. :ironic:
put you up on assault on battery charges

Click to expand...

it's not really a short the DMM applies a load and just measures the current draw. the batter or cable to no get hot and its not like i sit there forever.

plus i needed to know what battery will put out the current to cycle my flash faster

AND it not like that battiers get test every week or somthing just any new sets as they come off the charger.

now if you can tell me how to recover my LI-ion battery for my cell phone that died over night for no reason

I sense a pending Darwin Award....

Marduke said:

I sense a pending Darwin Award....

Click to expand...

i sense that you are wrong

been work on high current stuff for years

way to assume :shakehead you could at least provide reasons

Turbo V6 Camaro said:

i sense that you are wrong

been work on high current stuff for years

Click to expand...

Then you should know flash amping a cell is a quick way to kill it.

Marduke said:

Then you should know flash amping a cell is a quick way to kill it.

Click to expand...

1- or 2 checks is not going to kill it, if it does then I'm not using them, they are already defective to me would just be a matter of time at lower sustained currents ..

now if you can tell me how to recover my LI-ion battery for my cell phone that died over night for no reason

sometimes the phone batteries are cutting out because the "thermal" protection kicks in. lots of these phones, mine included have very hot processor chips heating up the battery, and very little cooling.
usually the thermal protection will kick back on, unless it is the "fused" type. a battery can have in it none, one, or both types of thermal protection.
if you had it "insulated" , in a hot area, or things that could be related to heat stuff, that is one possiblity.
like one guy lost his in the couch, and just the small space with the foam insulation around it allowed the phone to keep heeting up.

it could be it just reached the protection end, or low voltage cutoff for the phone, just needs to be recharged, the bats have inside themselves the protection, and the phones cut off when the voltage droops to keep enough power to maintain standby ram, so the phone itself will cut off earlier than the total capacity of the battery.

it died .

mabey it would be usefull to know that nokia recentally had a li-ion battery recall thing going on some OLDER phone items, the ones that the age of the li-ion , added to the way it is treated, they were becomming unsafe for some people, expanding (gassing) and poping out of the back of the phones due to the expansion. the expansion also causes them to disconnect at the connection points , so the user who didnt know thier ear was about to ketch fire, finnaly notices the phone stops.

VidPro said:

now if you can tell me how to recover my LI-ion battery for my cell phone that died over night for no reason

sometimes the phone batteries are cutting out because the "thermal" protection kicks in. lots of these phones, mine included have very hot processor chips heating up the battery, and very little cooling.
usually the thermal protection will kick back on, unless it is the "fused" type. a battery can have in it none one or both types.
if you had it "insulated" , in a hot area, or things that could be related to heat stuff, that is one possiblity.

it could be it just reached the protection end, or low voltage cutoff for the phone, just needs to be recharged, the bats have inside themselves the protection, and the phones cut off when the voltage droops to keep enough power to maintain standby ram, so the phone itself will cut off earlier than the total capacity of the battery.

it died .

mabey it would be usefull to know that nokia recentally had a li-ion battery recall thing going on some OLDER phone items, the ones that the age of the li-ion , added to the way it is treated, they were becomming unsafe for some people, expanding (gassing) and poping out of the back of the phones due to the expansion. the expansion also causes them to disconnect at the connection points , so the user who didnt know thier ear was about to ketch fire, finnaly notices the phone stops.

Click to expand...

yeah i dont know i always charge it on the wall plug or USB i chrage it seemed fine, woke up and phone was off...

i thinks it gone i have the phone pluged in and it just keeps trying to chrage and cycle an load then tries

the 3.7v battery show only .3 volts yesterday and not down to .004 v

I've seen graphs of the elite 1700 nimh cells doing 30 amps for an entire discharge. I've also personally done 20 amps on powergenix ni-zn cells, which did damage that battery though. I'm certain in short pulses it can do more, but at that point I already burned out the cell at 20 amps that it would no longer be an accurate test.

If you want your flash to charge fast, you should consider ni-zn cells because in addition to high flash current, it has higher voltage which would help bypass any resistance in the flash circuit. I haven't yet tried elite 1700s in my flash though and wonder how they will perform.