WarriorOfLight
Flashlight Enthusiast
NB35 is a good choice. Here a compare between NB30, NB35, NB40, NB45
[bimg width=600]https://i.imgur.com/XiU7SlN.jpg[/bimg]
HDS Systems #23
- Thread starter Hogokansatsukan
- Start date
[bimg width=600]https://i.imgur.com/XiU7SlN.jpg[/bimg]
- Joined
- May 4, 2014
- Messages
- 720
Do you reckon it’d be worth offering to do it for people with rotaries who don’t dare risk doing it themselves? I live in Europe, far as i know there’s no-one here doing it otherwise.
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2020
- Messages
- 1,606
Possibly. It would depend on your comfort level, time, and willingness to take responsibility in case if something goes wrong. Also important would be pricing for the service to be worth your time.
- Joined
- May 4, 2014
- Messages
- 720
I’m pretty comfortable taking these apart now, the only thing really would be if i were to bungle the prongs or crack the PCB, both are things which aren’t high-risk given what i use for it. It could be worth asking Hogo if i could order some spare parts to try it if he and Henry are willing to risk it in turn. I don’t care much about pricing, it’d have to cover shipping and supplies and that’d be enough for me.
I have clickies and rotaries and both are amazing lights.
The clicky doesn’t have easy access to all light levels, but most people don’t need easy access al all light levels. Once my clicky is set the levels I need are easy to access with a couple of clicks. In my opinion the advantage of the clicky is a user replaceable tailcap boot and bomb proof construction.
The rotary is also one tough light and if anything ever goes haywire or the boot needs replacing Henry and Hogo will have your back. The advantage of the rotary is ease of setting the level you need for the situation. It can also function like a clicky if you’d like, the clicky can’t function like a rotary.
The obvious answer is get one or two of each!
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Did anyone ever have any such problems with a raised button on a Rotary?
I've played around with my wifes Rotary with flush button. I might like the raised button better.
I remember I once had a Tactical with raised button from member usdiver for some time.
I've played around with my wifes Rotary with flush button. I might like the raised button better.
I remember I once had a Tactical with raised button from member usdiver for some time.
- Joined
- May 4, 2014
- Messages
- 720
Having looked through all the posts it seems exceedingly uncommon, i’ve never seen any complaints of the raised ones.
Has anyone actually had grit or dirt get inside the rotary mechanism?
I've long seen the suggestion that it might be an issue, but has anyone experienced this?
I haven't had mine long enough to know personally.
I've long seen the suggestion that it might be an issue, but has anyone experienced this?
I haven't had mine long enough to know personally.
- Joined
- May 31, 2018
- Messages
- 63
pretty solid test there. Good to know it passed.
This is what I enjoy seeing
Quick post to say thank you to Henry. My favorite all time 15 year old RA Twisty lost its low mode. Sent it to Henry and had it back in about a week all repaired and working as new. For all of you that doubt the HDS lifetime warranty I am proof that HDS stands behind their lights. Thank you Henry. My trusted companion is back and as good as new and I am sure it will be reliable with my daily use for another 15 years!
Awesome to hear this
tech25
Flashlight Enthusiast
I prefer raised as I find it easier and more comfortable to activate the light.
The flush has the ability to tail stand but I have rarely found it necessary for my uses. If I need the room lit up- I have headlamps and lanterns.
The flush has the ability to tail stand but I have rarely found it necessary for my uses. If I need the room lit up- I have headlamps and lanterns.
How do you normally carry your HDS with a raised switch boot?
tech25
Flashlight Enthusiast
Either a Thors Hammer Holster or a Kydex holster.
Get the tactical rotary model and reprogram the strobe mode to max brightness level. Now you’ll only have 12 brightness levels on the tactical model vs 24 on the rotary
Inside the cap of the rotary switch are two O-rings and a plastic wire that holds the cap in place, so water and sand will not reach the PCB board. I recently disassembled the cap and cleaned the rotary after carrying and using it daily for a year. The plastic wire had dirt on it from clothing fibers and water mixed with hand stains, but the O-rings behind it were clean.
Rotary vs Clicky, trying to make a decision.
Use cases:
Clicky
Exec, NB35 Hcri 180 lm, black bezel and body, uc glass, 123 battery, flush button, blk clip. Additional buttons.
+ Button can be changed easily. Flush, raised - easy.
+ Clip (not a priority)
- UI not as convenient as a Rotary
Rotary
Rotary, NB35 Hcri 180 lm, black bezel and body, uc glass, 123 battery, raised button, no clip.
+ Very easy UI
+ No bulging button with raised button
- No tail standing with raised button
- Accidental switch on possible with raised button
- Button can't be changed easily
- No clip (not a priority)
What do you think?
Use cases:
- Navigating around in the dark without waking up other people (daily - sublumen)
- Reading in the dark for short periods (almost daily - low)
- Helping other people and fixing things (weekly - medium)
- Searching for small things like needles (pins) that fell on the floor (weekly - medium)
- Checking things like brakes, engines in daylight (maybe monthly - medium or high)
- Outdoors and other things (often - medium or high)
Clicky
Exec, NB35 Hcri 180 lm, black bezel and body, uc glass, 123 battery, flush button, blk clip. Additional buttons.
+ Button can be changed easily. Flush, raised - easy.
+ Clip (not a priority)
- UI not as convenient as a Rotary
Rotary
Rotary, NB35 Hcri 180 lm, black bezel and body, uc glass, 123 battery, raised button, no clip.
+ Very easy UI
+ No bulging button with raised button
- No tail standing with raised button
- Accidental switch on possible with raised button
- Button can't be changed easily
- No clip (not a priority)
What do you think?
