P4'ed Myo XP - worlds easiest mod!

[AndreasB]

Just put a Seoul P4 in my Myo XP. Fits like a glove - seems as if the optics will work fine with the P4 as well.

The mod went smooth. I got my P4 from AW today and AAA'ed/soldered it onto a K2-star which seem to work fine.

Gonna test the Myo in a couple of hours when daylite fades.

Off to P4 my Tikka XP now. It seems even easier.

AndreasB

 

[Dutch]

Oooo. Can't wait to see how this turned out!!

I love my Myo XP.

 

[boef800]

Oooo. Can't wait to see how this turned out!!

I love my Myo XP.

I too can't wait....planning to put a Seoul Star into mine.If it's really driven at around 350 mA on high,we could see almost a doubled output at ~90 lumens.

 

[AndreasB]

I'm sorry I forgot to measure the current when I put in the star.

Did measure the current on the Tikka however - heres the numbers:

Tikka XP
High 65 mA
Optimal 50 mA
Low 22 mA
Boost 190 mA

These are the numbers using 70% full rechargeables.
As far as I can gather from using Tikka/Myo over a couple of weeks these headlamps doesn't run at constant-current since they dimm as the batteries goes flat.

AndreasB

 

[Edro]

Off to P4 my Tikka XP now. It seems even easier.

Please let us know how your Tikka XP mod goes, with pictures if possible.

 

[AndreasB]

Ok, so I just did the Tikka XP mod.

When I had mounted the P4 to the star the mod itself took about 5 minutes. Yes, really - only 5 minutes.

It takes quite some heat to unsolder the old star but apart from that its a walk in the park.

Right now we got a snowblizard here so I dont know if I'll step outside for some beamshots this evening or tomorrow instead. My friend is going to step over one of these days with a regular Myo XP, so I hop to take some comparing shots.

Edro: Do you want beamshot or mod-shots? Really the mod-shots would be a bore since there's really nothing to show...

AndreasB

 

[boef800]

But what is your rough estimate?Lets say in a dark room/ceiling bound test,etc.Would you say it's a significant plus or even doubled?

 

[Edro]

Edro: Do you want beamshot or mod-shots? Really the mod-shots would be a bore since there's really nothing to show...

Both if possible.
I haven't pulled apart a Tikka XP and would like to see it before I try it.
I'm a newbie so anything you share (pictures or instructions) would be appreciated.
Thanks.

 

[TMorita]

...
As far as I can gather from using Tikka/Myo over a couple of weeks these headlamps doesn't run at constant-current since they dimm as the batteries goes flat.

AndreasB

Yep, they are not regulated.

This is why I prefer the BD Zenix IQ over the Tikka XP/Myo XP.

The Zenix IQ is fully regulated, and the same price (~$50).

Toshi

 

[AndreasB]

boef: I think its significant but not doubled. But thats just me guessing - I'm really not good at comparing. In a week or so I hope to get a stock Tikka to compare with.

edro: I'm done with modding both lights and sadly didn't take any modshots. Its really easy modding the light (especially the Tikka) so I dont really think you'll need any guiding from me. Nevertheless if it would make you feel better opening your own light I can reopen my Tikka and take some reconstruction-shots.

AndreasB

 

[Scattergun]

+1 on Edro´s question

 

[chris_m]

Did measure the current on the Tikka however - heres the numbers:

Tikka XP
High 65 mA
Optimal 50 mA
Low 22 mA
Boost 190 mA

These are the numbers using 70% full rechargeables.

As I reported before, I got 120mA on high in a Tikka XP with almost new alkalines, and a whopping 450mA on boost! It does make a huge difference the state of the batteries in Tikka series lights (and AFAIK in all Petzl lights), as they aren't actually regulated as such - I believe the various levels are all fixed proportions of the current available power. Certainly when I use these for racing with I always make a point of putting fresh batteries in to maximize the light output.

I also suggested before that it's worth checking whether the current changes after doing the mod, as I have a suspicion they may be voltage "regulated" rather than current "regulated" given the way they seem to work.

 

[peteybaby]

boef: I think its significant but not doubled. But thats just me guessing - I'm really not good at comparing. In a week or so I hope to get a stock Tikka to compare with.

edro: I'm done with modding both lights and sadly didn't take any modshots. Its really easy modding the light (especially the Tikka) so I dont really think you'll need any guiding from me. Nevertheless if it would make you feel better opening your own light I can reopen my Tikka and take some reconstruction-shots.

AndreasB

Hi AndreasB. I've posted in the PT Apex thread that I own an Apex and would like detailed instructions on how to do the Cree/Seoul mod for it, but it just so happens that my partner's headlamp is the Tikka XP so I've been watching to see how you fared in your mod attempts as well. So now that you've succeeded, (does the Tikka XP behave the same way it used to? All modes work? Run-time is as good or better, but the light is brighter?) would you be able to give me some specific instructions? I may not understand the jargon that people use at CPF so if you could write steps like the following, it would be much appreciated:

1. Buy <model name, #> LED from where?
2. any other mechanical or electrical bits required?
3. Open Tikka XP how?
4. Remove old LED how?
5. Solder which wires to which terminals/tabs on the LED?
6. Re-install new LED how?
7. any other mechanical steps necessary
8. Put Tikka back together.

Thanks!

 

[AndreasB]

Petey (and others),

OK, here goes. I'll update this post later with more info and pictures. I'll have to keep it short for now. Mind my spelling.

1. Buy one Tikka XP and one star-mounted Seoul P4 led (AW will probably be selling these in a couple of days/weeks - check out his thread in the Sellers-section, otherwise you can buy a bare emitter and solder it onto a star yourself. I wouldn't recommend reusing the stock star).

2. Tools: You'll need a small torx-screwdriver (size=6) and a soldering iron

3. Turn the head of the light all the way up

4. Remove the backside (using your nails will do the trick)

5. Remove batteries

6. Unscrew the three small torx-screws on the backside of the light

7. Gently retract the light-electronics from the frontcover of the light (using a flat screewdriver if neccessary)

8. Remove the black plastic-cap from the LED-star (no tool required - this is where the optics-plate sits)

9. Unsolder the stock star (you'll have to use quite a lot of heat but eventually you'll get it)

10. Presolder the P4-star and the two wires

11. Solder the P4-star (remember to check for polarity first)

11b. You might have to put some thermal-grease on the backside where the heatdiode sits. I didn't since there was more than enough left on mine.

12. Place the black plasticcap on the P4-star

13. Gently replace the light-electronics back into the front-cover (remember to place the optics-plate into the black plastic cap first)

14. Screw the 3 torx-screws back in

15. Put batteries back in light

16. Replace backside of the light

17. Your good to go

AndreasB

 

[AndreasB]

Petey,

And to answer your questions:

Yes, the Tikka XP behaves exactly the same way it used to. All modes work.

I haven't tested the runtime yet but since the current hasn't changed I'm quite sure the mod won't change the run-times.

I definately think it's brighter but I would like to get back on that when I get the time to test it some more.

AndreasB

 

[peteybaby]

Petey (and others),

OK, here goes. I'll update this post later with more info and pictures. I'll have to keep it short for now. Mind my spelling.

1. Buy one Tikka XP and one star-mounted Seoul P4 led (AW will probably be selling these in a couple of days/weeks - check out his thread in the Sellers-section, otherwise you can buy a bare emitter and solder it onto a star yourself. I wouldn't recommend reusing the stock star).

2. Tools: You'll need a small torx-screwdriver (size=?) and a soldering iron

3. Turn the head of the light all the way up

4. Remove the backside (using your nails will do the trick)

5. Remove batteries

6. Unscrew the three small torx-screws on the backside of the light

7. Gently retract the light-electronics from the frontcover of the light (using a flat screewdriver if neccessary)

8. Remove the black plastic-cap from the LED-star (no tool required - this is where the optics-plate sits)

9. Unsolder the stock star (you'll have to use quite a lot of heat but eventually you'll get it)

10. Presolder the P4-star and the two wires

11. Solder the P4-star (remember to check for polarity first)

11b. You might have to put some thermal-grease on the backside where the heatdiode sits. I didn't since there was more than enough left on mine.

12. Place the black plasticcap on the P4-star

13. Gently replace the light-electronics back into the front-cover (remember to place the optics-plate into the black plastic cap first)

14. Screw the 3 torx-screws back in

15. Put batteries back in light

16. Replace backside of the light

17. Your good to go

AndreasB

Wow, thanks AndreasB. that's great! Looking forward to your pictures too if you post some.

 

[Edro]

Fantastic write up AndreasB! Thank you! Thank you!
Looking forward to pics too.
Sorry for the newbie questions: #10 and #11 seem to be the same. I know they are not but maybe you (or someone else) can clarify.
#10: does this mean soldering the P4 star's + and - contacts to the + and - wires of the Tikka XP?

#11: or is this the soldering I just described above?

Thanks for your help.

 

[AndreasB]

Thanks guys.

By #10 I mean preparing the wires and the star by soldering some solder to the wires and star-contacts. This way both parts will be ready for the attachments of the star in number #11. Strictly speaking both #10 and 11 is parts of the solderingproces.

If you are used to soldering - just do as you're used to.

I tried to make a mod-movie but failed miserably. My soldering skills are bad but my camerahandlingskills are even worse.

I did manage to take these fotos. I know they're not good. Hope they can help you.

Btw - another great thing which makes modding the tikka a walk in the park is that the black plasticcap goes on top of the emitter and keeps the optics-plate completely centered (even if the emitter is a little off center on the star).

AndreasB

 

[Dutch]

Good stuff!

Thanks!

 

[AndreasB]

Oops, its actually PhotonFanatic that has a feeler-thread with P4-stars:

http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=152021

AW will most likely be supplying some emitter though:

http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=151476

I got some K2-stars, which work fine for P4 as well from this guy on e-bay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Aluminium-star-for-luxeon-K2-LEDs_W0QQitemZ180062344345QQihZ008QQcategoryZ33713QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

And you should make sure you get U-bin P4's. As far as i remember the T-bin is lower quality.

Happy modding!

AndreasB