$15 DX single stage AA - a winner

[Gary123]

The subject of this brief review is to be found here

[advertising link removed by moderator]

This may be the best $15 light out there right now. If you disagree, post into this thread what you think might be better.

Fit and finish is very clean. The light seems to be slightly brighter than a JetBeam MK.IIX on normal hi, not quite as bright as the JB on advanced hi. Spot is smaller than the JB and so smoothly transitions into the corona that it is a wonderful walking light. Much better walking light than the JB. Throw on the spot is midway between the two high's on the JetBeam. This light provides decent illumination on a target at 50 yards. Corona on the JetBeam is brighter but smaller. Tint is beautiful, very similar to the JB which is my AA standard. Will also tailstand. A perfect light for non flashaholics. Gets fairly warm after 10 minutes (with very little handling) but by no means hot. Smooth reflector, a hair longer than the JB and 2 grams lighter.

 

[davenlei]

I have two of these lights and love them. After doing the copper wire fix, it is really bright.
I like the output so much I actually started questioning the much higher cost of my MKIIx.
I am considering picking up a few more for disaster lights to go into the earthquake kit (my current two are in each car).

 

[paulr]

OK, I just ordered one, gotta check it out. I wanted some other stuff from DX anyway.

 

[Gary123]

After doing the copper wire fix, it is really bright.

OK Dave, what is the "copper wire fix" and what does it do? I don't know why anyone would mess with this light, its so nice.

 

[davenlei]

Well, both of mine had a flickering problem and would go to about 50% brightness when moved around.
So after cleaning the contacts and trying to make it work, I sodered a couple of strands (actually 1-2 strands) of copper wire to the solder blob that already exists on the head contact and laid the other side of the wire across the threads that attach the head to the body.
After I did that, the flickering was gone and it was considerably brigter than before the fix. BTW, someone else came up with the fix, I saw it in another thread.
Maybe you were lucky and did not get one that needed 'fixing'.

 

[nanotech17]

back in march i paid $18 bucks :sigh:

 

[Gary123]

I sodered a couple of strands (actually 1-2 strands) of copper wire to the solder blob that already exists on the head

There is no solder blob on the inside of my head.

 

[Raptor#]

Heh, i had that one too.
Bought it as a gift for somebody else, but the next time i'll order at DX im going to get one for myself... and maybe one for another gift... oh, and maybe a additional one, as a loan-out light.

What really impressed me about that one was the tint. Beautiful warm/vanilla white. Everything else was quite nice too.
Threads ok and well lubed. No rings/holes in the beam. Smooth transistion from spot to corona. Can tailstand.
Pretty bright, brighter than my good old L2T.

I think it might be somewhere at 50-70 lumens, what do you think?

 

[davenlei]

There is no solder blob on the inside of my head.

Hmmmm.. That's funny. Maybe they fixed it, thus the reason for the $1.00 increase in price. I paid $13.50 for them several weeks ago. Now they are $14.50 I believe.

 

[light_emitting_dude]

Looks like a 14500 version here

http://dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4370

anyone have this one? I wonder if it would work with a 1.5 AA?

 

[Gary123]

I think it might be somewhere at 50-70 lumens, what do you think?

I think you're right, but closer to 50/55.

Looks like a 14500 version here http://dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4370
anyone have this one? I wonder if it would work with a 1.5 AA?

Doubt it would work with a 1.5 AA. A similar light I got from Kaidomain https://www.kaidomain.com/WEBUI/ProductDetail.aspx?TranID=1274
would not light up on an alkaline. I wouldn't recomment this Kai light btw.

But with the alkaline MTE getting warm but not hot, my concern with the 14500 would be that the light gets hot. But I would be curious to know.

 

[light_emitting_dude]

Just ordered mine from DX. Was hoping Fenix would use some SSC's in their lights but I guess its not going to happen.

Looks like a decent light.

 

[paulr]

Mine came today. Fantastic light for $15. Sort of a cheaper Fenix L1P clone. I don't know how to tell if it's a P4. It doesn't look like a Cree XR-E die, since I don't see the separate segments of the die, and the bond wires aren't attached to the same points. 50 lumens? Hmm I dunno. It obliterates my Fenix L0D CE (maybe a full stop brighter) but is maybe 1/2 stop dimmer than my P1 CE. I'll guess: P1CE about 60 lumens (Fenix claims 90), DX maybe 40, L0D CE would be in the 20 range. Hmm. I believed my old L1p to be in the 30 range and the L0D CE was comparable on a ceiling bounce test (I don't have the L1p any more so can't compare now). This is running on an eneloop. Maybe could get some more lumens out with an L91 but using $2 batteries in a $15 light seems a bit silly.

DX beam is comparable to P1CE in spill and hotspot size. Spill brightness is comparable but hotspot is dimmer. DX beam is nearly artifact free, while P1CE has rings. DX build quality is lower than Fenix, but what do you want for 15 bucks. + battery contact is a PC board pad. - contact is a spring soldered down to a PC board pad. These are probably the eventual failure points if the tailcap doesn't crossthread when replacing a battery sometime.

I hope someone does a runtime plot soon. If Chevrofreak or the other folks who do these plots want to borrow this light, I can mail it.

I kind of doubt alkaline AA's would work real well in this light, but one of lights plus a 2-cell Eneloop charger kit would be a nice gift for a non-flashaholic.

 

[mattchase]

Paul, I have a CEM DT-1309 logging light meter and can do runtime, peak lux, and QUPS readings for you. I also have a small supply of brand new Eneloops to test with, so no need to send any batteries. PM me if you really want to send it.

Slightly off topic, I also have a DX light on it's way to me, the $8.95 "simply cree" single AA light. I plan on doing the standard tests with that one once it arrives too.

 

[knot]

Why does this Cree 1xAA XR-E only put out 1000 lux @ 1M as opposed to the OP's 1xAA SSC-P4's 3700lux @ 1m

What needs to be modified or replaced in the circuit board?

 

[light_emitting_dude]

I can only agree 100%. I am really impressed with this light. I did notice that between the head and the body there was a copper ring and remember that another CPFer found a hidden mode using a copper ring. Will have to do some more digging! Maybe DX added this MOD as well?

With an eneloop AA, this thing is brighter than my L1T on a 14500 and gives my Lumapower Formula one F1 a run for its money! You can't beat this for $15!

Dug up post here.........

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/164016

 

[martonic]

There is no solder blob on the inside of my head.

 

[Gunner12]

Why does this Cree 1xAA XR-E only put out 1000 lux @ 1M as opposed to the OP's 1xAA SSC-P4's 3700lux @ 1m

Simple, floodier beam = Lower Lux rating so the Simply Cree might have a floodier beam.

Does the MTE Seoul put out tight beam(compared to the size of the reflector)?

 

[knot]

Simple, floodier beam = Lower Lux rating so the Simply Cree might have a floodier beam.

Does the MTE Seoul put out tight beam(compared to the size of the reflector)?

Yeah but, that's measured at one meter.

 

[jbosman1013]

use energizer L91 and it gets brighter