Chrontius
Flashlight Enthusiast
What about a regulator that goes in the tailcap void? My Fivemega pack wouldn't make contact if inserted backwards, and the tailcap charger would fry if the cells in the pack were backwards.
2D Mag ROP question
- Thread starter cdud09
- Start date
Re the comment about driving the ROP with 7 AA NiMHs and a spacer.
There is a way to avoid using a quad bore body.
The older type Willie Hunt brass tube and pc board holders where all cells face the same direction allows 7 Eneloops (only cell thin enough IIRC) and a spacer without any need for a bored body of any kind. Got a ROP H built this way in a red Mag body as I'm writing this...Made the spacer out of tape wrapped aluminum rod.
BTW, I find that I personally like 1111 setups better than a ROP H. Build them mostly in C bodies with 2 C lithiums. Like an 1185 LE but one cell shorter. But you need the socket conversion parts for those bulbs - brass drop ins work OK for the 1111. Bulb flash can be minimized by using a soft starter switch but the three intensity versions I have also require a tail switch due to idle current draw.
There is a way to avoid using a quad bore body.
The older type Willie Hunt brass tube and pc board holders where all cells face the same direction allows 7 Eneloops (only cell thin enough IIRC) and a spacer without any need for a bored body of any kind. Got a ROP H built this way in a red Mag body as I'm writing this...Made the spacer out of tape wrapped aluminum rod.
BTW, I find that I personally like 1111 setups better than a ROP H. Build them mostly in C bodies with 2 C lithiums. Like an 1185 LE but one cell shorter. But you need the socket conversion parts for those bulbs - brass drop ins work OK for the 1111. Bulb flash can be minimized by using a soft starter switch but the three intensity versions I have also require a tail switch due to idle current draw.
