MagCharger Heat Shield - Prelim Test Results

Ginseng

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With the recent surge in interest in the use of high-power bulbs in the MagCharger, there will also likely be more reports of thermal damage from the increased power. The most popular drop-in upgrade is the WelchAllyn WA01160. This is a spec rated 5V, 3.45A, 17.25W unit that when pushed by the appropriate MC pack, reaches 6.05V, 3.5(?)A and 21.18W. This is a 2.5X increase over the stock bulb, which is an 8.4W unit.

The damage is most likely to occur at the pin socket. This is a plastic slug with the two pin receivers embedded in it. The two pin receivers are connected to two metal contact tabs which make contact with mechanisms inside the metal lamp pedestal to complete the electrical circuit. I've 95% disassembled the MC switch/charger core and this plastic cylinder appears to be the most glaring weakpoint in the MC powertrain. It is unfortunate that it is at the one point in the entire light that will certainly be exposed to the most punishing conditions.

Since this area of highest stress is also readily accessible to the general user, I decided to see if an easy, drop-in solution could be developed to protect the stock part. This is desirable to the more robust, engineered solution of a purpose-built high temperature replacement part as disassembly of the MC is involved and difficult.

To that end, I ordered and received a sample of clear mica in 0.29mm or 0.0115" thickness. This is the pure mineral as I have found that even 750F rated fiberglass insulation and mica composites were unable to withstand the temperatures that the bulb capsule reached. My contact thermocouple registered temperatures of over 560F, the point at which I stopped the test due to smoking of the TC lead insulation.

I machined circular disks from the mica slab and drilled three holes in it. Two for the bulb pins and one for the bulb "tail." Here are photos of the shield slipped over the bulb pins and the bulb and shield in place in my MC. You can see the it's some fine work as the two pin holes are just over 1mm in diameter and 4mm apart. The central hole is about 2.5mm in diameter. Don't mind the jaggedness of the outer edge. These were prototypes and the jaggedness does not detract from the thermal performance.

micashieldprototype.jpg


So how did it work? Well, not too bad at all and certainly far better than nothing at all. In this next pair of pictures, you'll see the pristine pin socket on the left and the same socket after a full-out 61.5 minute run with the WA01160 driven by a UMP nimh battery pack. How hot does it get? Well, hot enough that you can't hold your hand 3" in front of the bezel for more than 7 seconds. Hot enough that the beam will soften a plastic milk jug enough so that you can dent the softened wall with a finger. Hot enough so the the head is too hot to hold against the back of your neck.

micashieldprepost.jpg


The damage is very slight and is seen as a shallow melting in the area between the pin holes and the central tail hole. This is far less severe than the broader, deeper melting that has occured in my other MC.

While these results are promising, the single-thickness mica shield does not offer 100% protection. I can, however, recommend it as a sensible precaution for those who are running high-power bulbs in their MC, especially if they tend to run for more than 10 minutes at a pop. Keep in mind that I would consider this test exceptionally severe as I used a new bulb and a freshly charged high current, high capacity battery pack.

I will continue the experimentation tomorrow with a double or triple thickness shield. The objective would be to prevent the glass tail from dropping into the socket hole and thus further insulating the bulb glass from the vulnerable socket. I believe that the range of the MC focusing cam would still allow one to achieve maximal beam tightness even if the bulb is lifted 2mm from the stock position.

Wilkey
 

Lightman

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Nice work Wilkey, The mica disk certainly seems help insulate the pedestal from excessive heat. I suspect that increasing the thickness of the disk will even further enhance its heat insulating capabilities. This means you will probably get more run time from the flashlight before the mica disk itself gets hot enough to melt the plastic slug. By the way, will you be planning to sell these mica disks. If you are I would be interested in buying some from you. If not could you tell us where you bought them from so that I may be able to buy them directly. Incidentally, I'm also looking into the possibility of custom making a ceramic plug that will totally replace the plastic one.
 

js

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Excellent, Wilkey. This is great news. As you point out, a mica drop-in is preferable to a total replacement of the pin socket, especially for the general user who doesn't have the tools or desire to 95 percent disassemble their MC. I'd think that if 10 mils helped this much, that 20 mils will be enough to be considered a complete success, even with an 1185, but I'm just guessing.

So, does this mean I can keep my ring-potted WA lamps I was going to send you, or do you still want to try the 1185 with the potting?
 

Ginseng

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Hi Guys,

Once I see how the thickened disks perform, I'll report back. Since this is such an important safeguard, I will send one out to anyone who sends me a SASE (self-addressed stamped envelope) and $1. Anyone who will be getting extension rings will get some thrown in, gratis as I assume you'll be using bulbs even more powerful than the WA01160.

Lightman,
You may contact Serge Pakhomou at [email protected] for information. They have a variety of goods. Probably a good idea to check out their site at micasales.com. I'll make these for anyone who wants them as it's a bit of a pain to cut and drill pieces this small. If you make some ceramic replacements, I'd like to get on the list to evaluate them.

js,
If I may, I'd still like to try out your potted WA01185.

jdriller,
So I could consider you an "extreme" user? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Wilkey
 

bmsmith

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Wilkey,

While these "heat shields", as they could be called, stop much of the radiant heat produced by the bulb, what about the heat transfer of the bulb glass to the bulb pins? The mica won't reduce that aspect of the heat problem, right? One thing that could help is some sort of thermal mass attached to the bulb pins just before the pins go into the plastic socket, similar to the spring-loaded soldering clips used to temporarily protect delicate items from excessive heating due to the soldering process. Any thoughts about bulb pin heat transfer (thermal conductance, I suppose it is called), or is it your feeling that the majority of damaging heat is infrared radiant heat?
 

Ginseng

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BM,

You raise a very good point. The conductive component is certainly not negligible. When I pulled out bulbs after any length of burn, the pins are always quite warm. The difficulty in implementing a heat sink solution is that thermal conductivity tends to go hand in hand with electrical conductivity. Thus, a maximally conductive solution would involve something like a copper or brass assembly that grips both pins. The problem, of course, is that you then short the circuit. I suppose it would be possible to design a very small sink with two isolated yet grippy miniature claws...but I wouldn't want to make it. And it probably wouldn't be secure against shock. If you can think of a robust, easy to make and install design, I'd love to check it out.

Wilkey
 

Lightman

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Hi Ginseng,

Thank you for the contact. I will probably order some from them as well. I will be glad to send you some ceramic replacements as soon as I can get some made up. My first task will be to dismantle the Magchager which I gather is no easy task. Once I can get the plastic plug out, I should be able to make a exact ceramic casting of it. I shall let you know how it goes.
 

Bullzeyebill

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Streamlight and TigerLight LA's solve heat to pins, and in SL (don't have TigerLight) pins attach directly to switch wires. Also, SL Ultra bulbs have an insulated board between bulb and bare pins.

Bill
 

Phaserburn

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What are the specs on the SL and TL LA's? I can't seem to find them anywhere, and wonder how they compare to the WA lamps for voltage and current requirements, and of course, lumens.
 

Ginseng

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Lightman,
Let me know if you need some pointers. I should have taken pictures when I did it last. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Bill,
I believe you will still get pretty good conduction of heat down the pins in either case. Reason being, while the ceramic plug is an insulator that would serve to protect things on the "outside" of the rear of the LA, heat would nevertheless be conducted down the metal pins. It must as an energy balance would indicate. The energy balance would also involve an analysis of how much heat is radiated from the exposed portion of the bare pins, how much heat that would otherwise be radiated which is instead conducted down the pins due to the insulating ceramic plug and how much radiative energy is recaptured by the pins and surrounding area. Unfortunately, I am too many years out of college to do an anlysis of this complexity. What is certain is that the ceramic plug would serve to protect the plastic pin socket slug. What is not certain is how much it would help protect the actual pin receivers themselves. Attaching to pin receivers crimped to insulated wires (as in the SL and TL) is probably not a bad thing. Without a huge block of plastic surrounding the pins, heat probably gets out as fast as it gets in.

Phaser,
I have not found any published specs for the TL LA. But then I haven't looked really hard. The SL-35X LA is described in the SL handbook as a "6 volt 20 watt" unit. This makes it a nominal 3.33A bulb, basically identical to a WA01111 in terms of power demand. There is no luminous output data, however, making a more rigorous comparison with the '11 impossible. Once I get MC1 back from repair, I will post beamshots of the SL-35X LA and the MC11, both driven by a UMP. The hottest SL-20X unit is 6V10W or 1.67A nominal.

Perhaps js can chime in here on the TL LA. We know it's 7.2V. I think tests have shown about a 1.7A draw. That would make it 12V unit, well underpowered compared to the analogous WA01274, a 7.2V 2.77A, 20W unit.

Wilkey
 

js

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Phaserburn,

All I can tell you about the SL-35X LA is regarding overdriving it to 7.2 V (nominal) at which voltage it draws 3.6A yielding 26 watts.

Ginseng's numbers are the same as mine regarding the stock TL LA: 7.2 V, 1.7 A and just over 12 watts.

As far as the SL-35X at 6.0 volts, I seem to remember someone saying it was a 400 lumen lamp assembly, but I don't remember who said that or where I read it. My ballpark torch-lumens figure for the SL-35X is 560 lumens or around 750 bulb-lumens. Just a guess, though. My experience with an over driven 1111 (7.2 volts drive vs. 6.0 volt design) bears out this estimate, because I find the 35X to be comparable to the 1111 in terms of both output and wattage. The 1111 is slightly higher wattage, but not by much (a watt more at most) and the WA re-rating formulas yield 880 bulb-lumens at this drive.

Hope this helped.
 

Ginseng

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Comparative Beamshots SL-35X LA, WA01111

My MC came back today so I pulled stuff together to make some shots.

Here are some comparative shots of the WA01111 bulb versus the Streamlight SL-35X LA installed in a MagCharger. All photo pairs taken with locked exposure. Both bulbs driven by a freshly charged and rested UMP nimh pack.

1. Bookcase Shot
In this shot, the MC11 (5-cell pack driving the WA01111) is focused down to its tightest spot. While the hotspot is brighter than that of the comparable SL-35X LA, the transition to spill is much, much more abrupt. So much so that in the shot, it looks like the SL-35X LA is making more light. The ceiling bounce test does not support this and in fact shows that the "integrated" light output is identical to the eye. The SL-35X LA works its magic by the special surface finish on the reflector. Pictures below. This finish results in a very smooth overall beam as has been noted by other testers, most recently S4MadMan.
333MagSL35Xbookcase.jpg


2. Blank Wall Shot
In this shot, the MC11 was defocused to a slightly greater extent than the bulb in the SL-35X LA. You can make out the characteristic "batwing" bilobe shape of filament in the Mag reflector. If you look carefully, you'll see the same feature in the SL-35X LA. This indicates that in addition to the finish on the SL-35X LA, the overall diffusion is aided by a certain degree of defocus. This explains the seeming paradox of why the SL-35X LA has such great flood but still seems to throw well. In reality, side-by-side tests show the SL-35X LA throw to be diminished very significantly by about 200 feet while the Mag reflector throws quite a bit farther, if somewhat dimly.
333MagSL35Xspot.jpg


3. The Two Reflectors Shot
Here we see the primary reason for the performance of the SL-35X LA versus the MC11 or any smooth Mag-reflectored mod. The finish on the Streamlight reflector is non-sputtered and non-polished. In fact, it could best be described as "satiny." While the profile of the spun reflector is not nearly as precise as that of the Mag reflector, the satin finish and defocus renders the point moot. For the eagle-eyed, you'll notice that the WA01111 is a rounded top, bottom-fill bulb (like the Carley bulbs) while the bulb in the SL unit is a nipple headed, top-fill bulb (like the Tigerlight bulbs).
333MagSL35Xla.jpg


Bottom line, any given bulb in a Mag reflector will throw like a maniac. The SL-35X LA, however, seems to be designed to deliver a smooth beam without using any expensive post-processing like buffing, coating or sputtering. I think they just left it as the bare, unfinished surface. I imagine that if one wanted to, it would be possible to replicate the diffusion performance of the SL reflector by sand blasting an MC reflector. Why would anyone want to do this? The same two reasons why I now run MC#1 with the SL-35X LA for a bedstand light while the MC#2 with the stock reflector is kept downstairs with various batteries for fun and testing. First, the throw is more than sufficient for spotting anything in the immediate vicinity of the house and grounds (up to 100 feet). Second, the smooth spot+flood beam allows rapid and ready acquisition of targets in the short to medium (5-40-foot) range. For me, that means mainly raccoons and the neighborhood cats but I imagine that for the tactical user, the spot+flood would be the preferred pattern for house clearing and other dangerous, fast-react activities.

Wilkey
 

Lightman

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Re: Comparative Beamshots SL-35X LA, WA01111

Ginseng,

I shall welcome any pointers from you as you have already taken one apart. Your experience will really make things easier. I also agree with you and Wilkey on the heat transfer to the pins itself. I am hoping that the conduction of heat from the pins will be adequate enough to dissipate heat fast enough so that the pins itself don't overheat.
 

udaman

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Ok, some of my questions have been answered already, but here are some other thoughts I had:

I hope you don't mind I copied and highlighted the areas of melting in question on your picture; http://img34.photobucket.com/albums/v103/udaman/BATSetal/micashieldprepost.jpg



1. High-temperature auto engine silicon, does it conduct or can it insulate the pins if applied directly to them, for use with the mica mod?

2. Can the bulb tail be grinded with Dremel, or filed down 1mm or so with narrow files? (assuming this does not compromise the envelope such that it cracks or breaks from heat stress).

3. Can we have any additional pics of the MC disassembly, specifically the 5% part not yet attempted, what is involved with that 5%; and where are the difficulties specifically, that might be better illustrated with pictures?

4. Other than this specific plastic part identified as the main weak link, are there any other parts you would then consider weak links? How much current do you think the standard MC switch can handle, now that you've been playing with these for a while…do you have pictures of partial meltdowns, so we might estimate the maximum current one might expect these to handle?

5. If you used JS's high temp. potting compound on the pins like he used for the WA01185 on the TL upgrade thread<font color="blue">[1.]</font>, maybe this would help---just a little dab at the point the pins come out of the glass envelope? While the application is different and the amount of heat you are trying to avoid is much smaller; if you look at home/commercial building insulation foam panels, you can find that they usually have a metalized reflective layer placed on at least on side of the panel. I was thinking you could put a layer of this on the mica piece, to further reflect heat towards the front end of the light, which would be thinner than 2 pieces of mica.

6. Can you provide as a reference: organized list/chart of all of the bulbs you have tested---WITH specific manufacturer/capacity/size cells-packs for each bulb, with guestimates as to which are the ones that will be causing the most problems? In other words, do you have any feeling as to whether there is more damage from current being delivered v. heat of the actual higher wattage the bulbs are burning at? Say you have 12v axial bulbs, therefore less current draw than the overdriven 6, 7.2v bulbs. Using extender tubes<font color="blue">[2.]</font>, would you think we would still see heat damage not necessarily from transfer of heat from the glass envelope to the bi-pins, but more so from these higher currents running through the bi-pins, which I would think is more than enough to cause some melting---12v overdriven 35,50-75w bulbs, or is it your experience that most of the melting is limited primarily to the bulb itself? IIRC, you tested the WA01185 with 9 NiMH AA's in the MagC, batts, bulbs, pics thread<font color="blue">[3.]</font>. Now I'm assuming the use of 2000ma NiMH per the High-current v high capacity thread<font color="blue">[4.]</font>, which by your own admission are whimpy ("massive voltage drop" and inability to supply the current that a RC use NiMH was capable of…as far as how much they may stress a bulb in possibly causing shortened life/flashing<font color="blue">[5.]</font>) compared to the UMP or standard MC pack <font color="blue">[6.]</font>. AFAIK, since 9 1/2D cell NiMH have yet to be tested with the WA01185(JS's A cell sized NiMH TL upgrade tests notwithstanding<font color="blue">[1.]</font>; I will wonder how much additional heat or problems this combination might prove to involve(eagerly await your testing results)?

7. On an auto bulb upgrade such as your 80/100w WRX, I'm guessing you needed to install a heavy duty wiring kit, I know I had to? Standard gauge auto wires to the plastic connector socket for the H4 bulbs get too hot from the current(I am told) they carry with the 80/100w and the plastic male socket connector melts. Upgrade to thicker wires prevents this. The higher wattage, larger size 12v axial bulbs have thicker bi-pins, so I'm wondering if they get quite as hot when carrying the greater currents? The racing/off-road higher wattage PIAA 130/180 H4's come as ceramic base, due to the amount of heat they generate, it would see the ceramic replacement part Lightman is proposing would be more ideal, if we could all figure out how to do the 'difficult' disassembly/reassembly part.

8. Another thought, there are high-temperature ceramics used in auto engine bays, reflective metal tape for engine headers…anyway to use these? I'm thinking that if a majority of the heat can be reflected forward, this might help in this situation. I wonder if these reflective layers, or metalized chips used in home insulation applications might also be used to reflect (and therefore insulate better) heat forward from the bulb pins. http://www.savenrg.com/sample.htm

9. I have a small sheet of thin asbestos, lying around somewhere. I wonder if this would work better or about the same...thought given your chemistry background, you might know.

10. Used dentistry drills will get you smaller holes than your initial mica disk. But with larger size bi-pin bulbs, the holes you have now are probably perfect.

Thank you again Ginseng, for your reference work.


CPF References:

1. JS's TL upgrade thread The TigerLight Upgrade Thread
2. Ginseng's Mag extender tubes thread Interest? MagD/MagCharger Extension Rings
3. Ginseng's MagC, batts, bulbs, picts, thread. MagCharger Mods: Batteries, Bulbs and Pictures
4. Ginseng's high-cap v. high-current thread High Current v. High Capacity Cells - Updated
5. Another SL-35 approach… thread Another SL-35X possibility...
6. Ginseng's UMP(lower half performing pack) v standard MC pack Prelim Testing: Stock MagCharger Battery vs. UMP
 
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