5w LS size limits ?

Candle Power Forums

Help Support Candle Power:

Originally posted by fliker:
xray
I could build you a small torch using a 5watt luxeon,Do you want any other realistic features?
I have a extended 5 watt fliklite ls that runs on 3 123 lithuims its ok but working on a brand new design for the 5 watt ls.
Be good to know your price limit.
Cheers fliker
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Main feature would be brightness, I'm not too bothered about battery life although if you can get a fairly good runtime without compromising light output, that would be great.

As for price range lets say up to £85 depending on what you come up with
smile.gif


Thanks x-ray
 
>chuckle<

On heatsinks -- aside from mass and thermal conductivity, surface area and surface color also can help get rid of heat by convection, if there's any air movement. And a black heat sink will radiate more than a shiny one, if there's anyplace colder in sight.

Heat pipes -- sealed metal tubes containing a low-volatility liquid that can evaporate at the hot end and condense at the cool end -- can help carry heat away from the source -- it'd be possible, maybe, to put a heat pipe into a battery compartment alongside smaller batteries, but not wise to heat the batteries; tougher to put one along the outside, but if that'd work another heatsink could be at the tail end of the tube.

I still have the notion either a tiny fan -- weren't there little fluttering Mylar "leaf" fans made? -- or a thermocouple/solid state refrigerator could use a little battery power to suck a lot of heat away from the warm end.

But we're probably getting into rocket science at that point.
 
Originally posted by x-ray:

As for price range lets say up to £85 depending on what you come up with
smile.gif


<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">I dont think you'll get much for $85, 5 watt Luxeon Star LED's are very expensive
 
Hi Light year,

Lets just wait and see what fliker comes up with
smile.gif


By the way if you re-read my earlier post you'll notice that as both fliker and myself are living in England I offered £85(UK) not $85(US).
 
5W, 9V direct drive in a PAL light housing (evil laugh)
wink.gif


Ron

Originally posted by ElektroLumens:
<snip>
I also have discovered that a 9V battery powers the 5 watt just fine. Short battery life? Yes. This could be the worlds brightest pocket light, at 120 lumens! <snip>

Wayne J.
www.elektrolumens.com
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">
 
X-ray as a one off when I can get hold of another 5w I will machine you a nice small lite out of alluminum & may use a 9volt pp3, sound ok for £85 notes.
 
Perfect
grin.gif
grin.gif
grin.gif


Just let me know when your ready for payment (and how you would like it, Credit Card, Cheque or Paypal all available)

Thanks for your time in helping me with this request

Lee
 
Originally posted by PsycoBob[Q2]:
Do what the computer weenies do when they want the ultimate thermal conductivity- Use a lump of silver.
grin.gif


Fill the head of your light with molten silver (let cool), machine the end, and mount the LS. Or just get a piece of silver and machine it, if you can't afford enough silver to fill a mag-lite's head....

So when is someone going to make a Tim Allen's 5w light? 20 5-watters, mounted on a copper block, with ball-lenses for all... and a backpack with a car-battery to run it, and a water-cooling system to keep the LS's cool. (is this an entry for the 'Stupid flashlight contest' yet?)
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Why stop with using copper or silver for heat sink? The best material, the best heat sink material, is diamonds!
shocked.gif
Get a very large diamond (cost is irrelavent), and drill a few holes, er, uh, better use heat sink epoxy, and attach the emitter to the large diamond. Mount diamond in a large silver holder. That should work nicely!
grin.gif


Wayne J.
 
Originally posted by Daniel Ramsey:
Has anyone done any real research on ablative materials? Do some searching about the composition of the space shuttle tiles and what they are made of, basically they are about 98% pure silica, i know most members here are into various degrees of technology and some are just starting but I do have an extensive background in certain areas such as welding and fabrication, mold and die making, machine shop and thermodynamics plus some engineering skills of electrodynamics and transfer rates of conductive materials, part of the list anyway.

Aren't ablative materials designed to protect things from heat by insulating them, and burning off to remove the energy? We want to absorb/conduct/dissipate heat, not make the LS catch fire, and leave us with a cold heatsink.

Apologies if my understanding of ablative armor/shielding is wrong.

Sintered materials I understand, and thing you might be on to something. Copper absorbs heat well, but aluminum seems to dissipate it ot the air better, from what computer-heatsink reviews I've seen. Current practices (perhaps also due to difficulty forming copper fins, etc) involve a copper plate for the heat-source to contact, bonded to aluminum fins for dissipation. Amount of copper varies from a single heat-spreader plate to a solid column to better conduct the heat to the aluminum fins for radiation/conduction.

Perhaps a sintered Al/Cu/Ag sink-plate would be best? Experimenters who work for JPL would be appreciated.
 
PsycoBob[Q2]
Aluminum does not disipate heat to the air better.
I thought that might be true also. I checked up on that a couple days ago.
Aluminum gets used often mostly because of weight considerations and perhaps price ... maybe strength.
 
I'm hoping that someone will come up with a mod that will fit the Surefire E2...

I think a 5W kit or "pill" for the E2 would be an instant hit, even if it wasn't running at full power.
 
Pi_314- no fair- you spelled my name right!

I'll see if I can find where I saw that Aluminum sheds the ehat better. I think it was in a computer-heatsink shootout- somebody compared a bunch of all-Al, all-Cu and 'composite' sinks, and the data indicated that the ones with a large copper 'spreader' to take the heat in, and dissipate it within the sink, and aluminum fins for dissipate it performed best. For all I know it was due to something like the anodizing of the aluminum.

I DO remember that a pair of matched heatsinks (except for color) found an interesting point: Different color heatsinks cooled differently- or at least enough to matter for geeks who battle for that last 0.5 degree. Thermoengines by thermosonic, I think- Apparently they sold different shades of grey, from nearly-black to almost-silver.

Now I just need to get up off my E-*** and find where those reviews were....
icon15.gif
 
Well, I'm glad ONE of us can substantiate his (assuming you're male) statements. I seem to have conveniently forgotten where I read that, and (also quite conveniently) lost the bookmark to it during the intervening months (read: repeated formatting due to allowing idiots to touch my machine).
 
How about making a torch completely out of copper tubing!?
This is very conductive and worked well in some designs that one of our number submitted to this website a few months ago! I would go for Nicad AAA's as the power storage medium; the torch itself featuring a plug-in charger which can either be a 12V car ciggie lighter plug or a 13a-plugged wall-wart charger (A mobile phone charger for example. Finishing the exterior of the torch in matt black will also help to dissipate the heat.
 
Originally posted by Light Year:
Hey x-ray, did you get that small 5w ls from fliker, I'd love to see some pics.
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">No it's not been built yet, I think fliker is still waiting for a 5w LS.

I will post some pictures as soon as I get it
smile.gif
 
Back
Top